Rooster won't move, comb is dull and chapped, watery poo with white and black flecks, little snot on

Discussion in 'Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures' started by Jeepman, Sep 24, 2012.

  1. Jeepman

    Jeepman Out Of The Brooder

    This is a sixteen week old brown rooster been really healthy up till 5 days ago. The coop is a cement floor with aspen wood shavings. Coop is not insulated but draft free with great ventilation. Been feeding the TSC brand finisher pellets for now.

    Day 1 lethargic would not leave the coop. Still eating, and drinking. Would stand if forced to. Slept on the lowest roost.

    Day 2 still lethargic, he was sleeping on the floor and not on the roost. Would not move when the hens would step on him.Would not stand on his own. Notice runny poop with flecked white and black flecks in it. Kind of like uncooked egg white with crushed rice and brownie crumbs.

    Day 3 Won't move or stand. Hens pecked out a patch the size of a loaf of bread on his back. I moved him into his own heated pen on that night. I fed him yogurt and bread crumbs. All food and water needs to be right next to him.

    Day 4 Still drinking water with electrolyte but only if it was right next to him. Eats very little. Some wetness on the tip of his beak.

    Day 5 Eats less, still runny poop, still does not move. I bought VetRX from TSC. I also bought Poultry Nutri-Drench. I have not administered any of these.

    Should I try these?

    What else could it be?

    I cannot take him to the vet. Financially not capable too as the nearest chicken vet is 1 hour 15 minutes from me and wants $65 to just look him over. With gas at $3.99 here, that is not happening.

    Please give me some ideas.
     
  2. chickenzoo

    chickenzoo Emu Hugger

    I would give the vitamin to try to get some energy into him. If no other symptoms, When a chicken starts to go down and weak, if they are young I treat for coccidia with Corid. If they are older or no response from the Corid, I worm with Safeguard liquid goat wormer.
    Listen to the chest under a wing to the lung sounds...any wheezing... crackles...etc?
     
  3. dawg53

    dawg53 Humble

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    VetRx is a waste of money. If there arnt signs of respiratory disease and the electrolytes you're providing arnt helping.... "Crushed rice" has me thinking tapeworms in conjunction with his other symptoms. If that's the case, purchase valbazen cattle/sheep wormer and dose him orally undiluted 3/4cc, use a syringe without a needle. Then redose him again in 7 days, then a third time in another 7 days. If it's tapes, they are tough to get rid of and require multiple dosings.
    An alternative to valbazen is zimectrin gold equine paste. Dosage is a pea size amount orally, repeat again in 10 days. Do not overdose with zimectrin gold. After you give him the orange in color paste, he might wipe his beak alot, that's normal.
    I recommend the valbazen before using z-gold.
    Also visually inspect him for lice/mites especially around the vent area.
    A pic of his feces would help.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  4. chickenzoo

    chickenzoo Emu Hugger

    Yes, if tapes are suspected then I'd use the Valbazen or Z gold. My only concern is how down the rooster is. I have lost chickens using the Valbazen on very depleted birds....that's why I use the safeguard first, until they get more recovered... It's weird since they are in the same family...but the Valbazen is stronger.
     
  5. X2. VetRX is totally useless..

    Dawg is soooo correct! He has helped me multiple times with 100% success rate. If all else fails - the ZimecGold works when nothing else will. I had problems for over 2 years with no success. The Z worked after a lot of money and heartache. (thanks Dawg once again.) They do wipe their beaks after for a few minutes. Freaked me out until i remembered Dawg saying that.

    Just a bit of advice though from experience - the Z tastes REALLY bad and the taste stays with you ALL NIGHT LONG no matter what you try and do, so make sure you dont get any on your mouth from their flapping wings when they decide they dont like it.
     
  6. Jonathan w

    Jonathan w Out Of The Brooder

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    Mince up 3 garlic cloves in a 1/4 cup of olive oil, let it sit in the sun for 3 to 4 hours and then mix it with 2 cups of pellet or crumble food and 1 cup of chickens scratch, give him a good size portion and then give the rest to your girls. This recipe was in a hobby farm issue and it works as an antibiotic, you will want to give it to your girls just in case they catch what he has... This recipe saved on of my hens and when ever any of them sneeze to much or cough I give it to them just for good measure
     
  7. seminolewind

    seminolewind Flock Mistress Premium Member

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    I would do what Dawg53 and Chickenzoo say. On young birds , I usually treat for coccidiosis first, then worms.
     
  8. Jeepman

    Jeepman Out Of The Brooder

    Ok I will be taking back the meds I bought.

    If you look at the watery poo in this description this is what it looked like with the brown and white colorings in it..
    http://chat.allotment.org.uk/index.php?topic=17568.0



    He still will not move around but does not mind moving his head or clucking when I walk by him.

    So should I treat for Coccidosis or worms?

    I will buy the wormer but what to use for coccidosis?
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2012
  9. chickenzoo

    chickenzoo Emu Hugger

    Corid is for coccidia...at his age its the most likely. Corid is a cattle or swine med. Comes in liquid or powder.
     
  10. Jeepman

    Jeepman Out Of The Brooder

    Ok thank you.

    I also noticed really oily feathers on him, and now some on my other birds. He is separated into my covered hallway. I do not see any white moving bugs like mice but my eye's are not that good and moving him causes him to scream out.

    His poo is really watery.

    I will preventative treat for corrid on the whole flock, but do the max dose on him. Hope he is strong enough.
     

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