Sanity check my 14x20ft half-roofed run plans please?

[mowin]

because even that "disposable" roof is likely to be more than adequate for his wind conditions?

So we agree? Posts in the ground below frost level, metal roofing properly installed should be more than adequate and not be disposable?

 

[Popsikle]

OP isn't in FL, as you mentioned, different wind conditions. So why suggest he build something with a disposable roof?

Most do protect their investments, including a chicken run.

To the OP, build it once, build it right.

I want to capture rainwater off the roof as well, which is the primary reason I went with metal. I did forget to add that 1x2 purloins (or w/e really) is an option I was considering versus a plywood base for the roof. For wind, it's nasty multi-directional gusts during storms, but otherwise not really a factor. I am more concerned with the snow load collapsing the roof (my back porch is 4x4 construction with poly roofing and I have to shovel anything > 12 inches off) than wind taking the roof. If the wind takes the roof, but the structure is mostly in-tact I'm sad, but not devastated, unlike snow crushing the wifes chickens.

 

[Popsikle]

Welcome to BYC. Over-engineering beats under-engineering -- though I say that from the perspective of a person whose brother-in-law designed airports and whose father believed that any structure not built to last 100 years was a temporary make-do.

DH and I found that metal roof installed over purlins with self-tapping screws was extremely easy and straightforward to install.

I highly recommend these electric metal shears for both the hardware cloth and the metal roofing (though if you can design it to not have to cut the roofing that's better).

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-35-amp-metal-shears-61737.html?_br_psugg_q=metal+shears

View attachment 2864658

Don't be tempted to get the more ergonomic ones -- those take a kerf out and will salt your run with dangerous bits of metal that the birds will surely eat.

There are some photos of the roof for my new coop starting here:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/large-open-air-coop-in-central-nc.1443812/page-12

So i should avoid my angle grinder when trimming things like the roof or HWC?

 

[mowin]

I want to capture rainwater off the roof as well, which is the primary reason I went with metal. I did forget to add that 1x2 purloins (or w/e really) is an option I was considering versus a plywood base for the roof. For wind, it's nasty multi-directional gusts during storms, but otherwise not really a factor. I am more concerned with the snow load collapsing the roof (my back porch is 4x4 construction with poly roofing and I have to shovel anything > 12 inches off) than wind taking the roof. If the wind takes the roof, but the structure is mostly in-tact I'm sad, but not devastated, unlike snow crushing the wifes chickens.

You don't need plywood sheathing for a metal roof if it open on the sides.
With your snow load, I'd use 2x8's 24" OC, or 2x6's 16" OC for the rafters.
Purlins are a must IMO. I'd space them every 16" regardless of what rafters you use.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

when I built, instead of using the traditional 1x4 purlins, I used the 5/4" x 6" (actually 5.5" of course) Pressure treated wooden "decking" boards. Obviously sturdier from the greater thickness, treated against moisture, and being a bit wider, it was easier to "not miss" working alone screwing things down (I skipped the chalk line - lazy of me).

Price, surprisingly, was quite comparable at the time - no idea what the situation is now, but I was paying about $0.50 per board foot for the decking.

I *gladly* defer to the others on rafter sizing and spacing - I can do the calculations of course, but as I have no snow loads, I was able to use much less substantial framing on my roof. And a 16" oc placement for purlins is just good practice - you can't place a screw where you haven't got a purlin, at the tiny points of screw head contact are all that keep that rof panel in place.

 

[mowin]

So i should avoid my angle grinder when trimming things like the roof or HWC?

It will work, just takes a little getting used to. For cutting metal roofing, a circular saw with the blade on backwards works great. Oh, either one requires eye protection.

 

[WhySayWhat]

Something like this?...
View attachment 2864514View attachment 2864515View attachment 2864516
That held up to this ?...
View attachment 2864519
I used double 2x8 for beams front and back with 8' OC spacing then added 2x4 framing in between (for a final spacing of 4' OC) on which to secure the 1/2" HC.

Our roofing of the run looks very similar to this, but here in the Pacific NW, I don't need to worry as much about winds (don't tell 2016 I said that...we had 80+ MPH hurricane force winds blow half the roofs in the city away), but do worry about the weight of our heavy, wet snow. We went with a tin roof over the run this time around simply because that's what was given to us for free! It's raining today and for the most part, everything is staying dry-ish (since it's repurposed materials, there are holes that drip). Our slope runs toward the skinny end of the run...again because that's the way the free to us material was best to put up (and our property naturally slopes that way).

 

[mowin]

when I built, instead of using the traditional 1x4 purlins, I used the 5/4" x 6" (actually 5.5" of course) Pressure treated wooden "decking" boards. Obviously sturdier from the greater thickness, treated against moisture, and being a bit wider, it was easier to "not miss" working alone screwing things down (I skipped the chalk line - lazy of me).

Price, surprisingly, was quite comparable at the time - no idea what the situation is now, but I was paying about $0.50 per board foot for the decking.

In a humid climate, the PT is a good choice.
The added surface to screw to is a bonus.

 

[3KillerBs]

So i should avoid my angle grinder when trimming things like the roof or HWC?

The supplier of our roofing specifically told us that using the angle grinder would void the 50-year warranty on the coating.

Your mileage may vary.

The shears are very easy to use and, IMO, were worth every penny.

Also the heavy-duty fence stapler.

(My DH calls me "the tool enabler" because I always encourage him to buy tools that make our projects go more easily and smoothly).

 

[mowin]

The supplier of our roofing specifically told us that using the angle grinder would void the 50-year warranty on the coating.

Your mileage may vary.

The shears are very easy to use and, IMO, were worth every penny.

Also the heavy-duty fence stapler.

View attachment 2864816

(My DH calls me "the tool enabler" because I always encourage him to buy tools that make our projects go more easily and smoothly).

Damm, I wish my wife was more like you. She hates it when I buy tools, lol