She said/He said Who's right? Who's wrong? No one!

If I'm not mistaken, if you are hitting high, you RAISE the rear sight.
You're absolutely right! I should have picked up on that. He was talking about lowering the rear as much as possible and/or raising the front, and I just went with it. Good thing it's only a .22 & not a high-powered cartridge @ $1+ a pop!
 
I forgot to include that for full olive eggs, you should breed the cross back to the Marans roo... also the other reason behind using the Marans for the roo... it is easier to go back to him than to go back to a hen...
Nice job, Ruby! Congrats...

As to the shipped eggs and humidity, did you only do bantam eggs in that or lf?
Btw, I don't do bantam eggs dry nor do I incubate them with lf...


I've only done shipped bantam eggs. I would think it would be the same for any air cell damage but I do not know.

Great catch! Attention to the details. I missed it too.

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Ruby, I think your theory sounds very plausible!

It's just a theory! But after dealing with so many shipped eggs and taking notes on previous hatches during the summer when I had high humidity dry, it seemed plausible, like you said. I don't need anymore shipped eggs right now but I will try it again with the call eggs.
 
You're absolutely right! I should have picked up on that. He was talking about lowering the rear as much as possible and/or raising the front, and I just went with it. Good thing it's only a .22 & not a high-powered cartridge @ $1+ a pop!

Now I am second guessing myself and think I am wrong.

POI is above POA. Lowering the rear sight would and should bring POA up to POI. I think.

Or get some real sights...
 
Now I am second guessing myself and think I am wrong.

POI is above POA. Lowering the rear sight would and should bring POA up to POI. I think.

Or get some real sights...
No, I believe you were right the first time. If he's hitting 2" low, the POI is below POA

I'm SO confused
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Cresting is dominant so % is very high for all to be crested... that's why you see lots of crested Silkie crosses...
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Awesome. I just love the crests! At first when I started with the chickens, I wasn't a fan of crests (or naked necks...lol) But they've grown on me and I just love them (both.) lol
 
[COLOR=333333]Originally Posted by [/COLOR][COLOR=333333]RubyNala97[/COLOR][COLOR=333333] [/COLOR][COLOR=333333]
[/COLOR][COLOR=333333]
[/COLOR][COLOR=333333]Finally got all caught up! I've been hatching since Friday night and boy am I tired. All of my eggs hatched except for 1. As of this morning it's still alive, so [/COLOR][COLOR=333333]:fl [/COLOR][COLOR=333333]
[/COLOR][COLOR=333333]Otherwise, this was a great hatch! I've got 8/9 fluffy, Silkie babies in the brooder. 2 eggs pipped the wrong end. The first had appeared to be shrink wrapped before pipping. The air cell took up about 85-90% of the egg before pip. Me and Amy both thought that egg was probably doomed. But after pipping underneath, it zipped all by itself the next day, totally unassisted. The second wrong end pipper was underneath and all the way at the pointy end. After a spike in humidity to above 90%, I decided to take out the egg shells and rearrange the eggs that weren't doing anything yet. This one egg was glued down to the paper towel and I had to pull it off. As soon as I did, I heard peeping. I turned it upside down and down towards the pointy end was a big hole and a beak sticking out! So I had no idea when it pipped. I'm surprised it could breath with the fluid that leaked out and glued it down. After at least 24 hours, it still hadn't progressed, so I began slowly assisting and had to eventually hatch it out myself. But it's doing great now! I've got a mix of colors, so I know I'll need Ravyn's help. 2 paint, 1 very adorable partridge that looks just like a chipmunk, 3 black with silver wing tips and 2 that look pure silver, like metal. Feet and 5 toes all look perfect, very vaulted skulls, and jet black skin! Very nice stock. I'm looking forward to breeding these in spring! Thanks everyone, especially Amy (she walked me through the hatch), I greatly appreciate all the support and encouragement through this hatch. I tested a few new theories on shipped eggs and air cells, so pm me if anyone wants to talk shipped eggs. Sorry for the novel! This is the only place I can share so many details everyone else has no idea what I'm talking about when I say "pip", "zip", and "air cells"! [/COLOR][COLOR=333333]:love [/COLOR]
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Ruby, don't go PM re: shipped eggs.  We're all here to learn, and can benefit from an open ended conversation if you're up for it.  
I've got some super big air cells in my shipped eggs, but I kept them anyway...I'll find out in about 3 days. We are on day 18 so we shall see.
 
I didn't want to bore everyone that wasn't into shipped eggs, but here goes...
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I've done a lot of thinking about how shipped eggs suffer damage to some extent or another. The damage we can see that's not on a cellular level is the air cell. Almost all air cells have some damage. A little jiggle, a big giggle, or full detachment. We want to stabilize that air cell. Often, it's been assumed that drying the air cell down will stabilize it (By running dry). But I'm thinking this is not working and that's why they dry out in either crazy shapes, saddle shapes, sometimes down the side of the egg. Around day 12 a balloon sorta inflates inside the egg and takes over (Real scientific, right?), creating a firm air cell with whatever shape it gets. So we get solid air cells on day 12, pretty much regardless. I was thinking that higher humidity during the first week, maybe even till day 12-14, would allow the air cell to heal without growing the air cell rapidly and creating a lot of moisture lost too. Seems like a lot for an egg that's in shock from rough handling. For the first week, I ran 50% humidity (gasp!) and on day 7, the air cells looked normal. So I kept with it till day 12 but air cell growth had slowed down a lot but they looked great as far as being nice, round, firm circles all in the fat end of the egg, just not much bigger then day 7. Then I lowered humidity, only down to 40%, (that's what I was running dry) and waited till day 19 to lockdown. So maybe it would benefit the air cell to grow it slower in the beginning, while its trying to stabilize and heal itself and then if it needs more moisture loss, have it take place after day 12 of incubation. That's just my theory. I haven't found any research that has studied shipping and humidity. If anyone comes across anything related to both, please pass it along to me.
Yeah me too! Those have vaulted skulls!
It sounds plausible. If the egg maintains the small air cell, there is more mass of "egg contents" pushing up against the air cell to keep it in place. My big concern would be that there is a short time between day 14 and hatch to allow for enough moisture loss. But, if you planned for that, and hatched in cartons, placing the eggs in cartons at day 14, they would be more likely to pip into air cell. My best ever hatch was with eggs that were laid flat and hand turned until day 14, then placed in cartons for the remainder. I continued to turn them in the cartons by tipping cartons. These eggs did not loose as much moisture as I would have liked b/c I had some unanticipated summer storms, and had never incubated in summer. All past experience was in a dry winter house with wood heat.
 
I've only done shipped bantam eggs. I would think it would be the same for any air cell damage but I do not know.
It's just a theory! But after dealing with so many shipped eggs and taking notes on previous hatches during the summer when I had high humidity dry, it seemed plausible, like you said. I don't need anymore shipped eggs right now but I will try it again with the call eggs.


Humidity for bantams or lf is way different, especially with shipped... always keep some water in the bator for bantams, smaller egg loses moisture faster than a larger egg...

Fyi, if you run Calls at 50% a lot will drown before internal pip...
 

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