She said/He said Who's right? Who's wrong? No one!

[rossfam06]

How do you already know it's a cock?

Crested cream leg bar, its an auto sexing breed

legbars are auto-sexing. Girls will have defined chipmunk stripes and a sharp V on this head, boys will have blurry stripes and a blotch on their head.

It was already explained no need to be redundant.

Ah ok. Thank you kind sirs.

Here's the setup I want. Taken of Pinterest.

Or this:

I like both of those.

Sounds perfect to me! Nice!
Yup! I've gotten suckered into going to a lot of those parties!
SJ, first, congrats on all the hatches and the babies in the brooder!! Second, what is up with those pips?
I like the setup, SC. Mine will probably be something like that in 6 years if I don't move to a farm with stables, which is the dream plan. I love the sea foam green coop! One question, are the wood triangles for support of the frame? And how many different breeds do you have right now?
Congrats on the baby!
Love this. Looks very similar to the setup that the top peafowl breeders have.

This will be my last month. I am not renewing....just not with it.

   Yea, that's what they all say... 



   I like those also...   I really need to re-organize mine.  Dang chicken math...

So true!!!!!

 

[WVduckchick]

Guesses on boys/girls??

 

[sideWing]

Ok, to tempt Don to post some pics of his setup, I took some pics of mine:

Ameraucanas and cuckoo marans. This is a duplex. Coop and pen divided down the middle.
The wooden table outside the pen is the cooler my darling Amy is so fond of


View from the house. Booted bantams in front, silkies behind in the seafoam green coop

When I started, the green coop was the entire operation. The roost area was from the left shutter back, and the rest was the enclosed run. It housed 4 buff Orpington pullets. When I bought the red building for the growing layer population, my wife decided she wanted silkies. This is when my fascination with the different breeds started.

This is the other side of the bantams/silkie pens, and one entrance into the layer pen. The red barn is the layer coop. There's an enclosed run between the coop and the pen under the waterer. The bare area out front is where I let the girls out when I'm around. It was almost dark, so everyone was heading to bed

Love the setup SC. Hoping to move in the spring and when I do I'm going to make a permanent setup something like yours. I'm excited to see Don's setup.

AM knowers out there. Is the "Ameraucana" in this pic an actual Ameraucana? Taken from Pinterest

And it looks like the SLW is a bantam version.

 

[sideWing]

Hi I have been reading this post for the past 2 days. Love it! I haven't hatched in three years, because I moved from NY to PA, and I couldn't take my flock with me. I'm ready to start again. My coop is almost done. I couldn't find hatching eggs or chicks locally. So I purchase pullet chicks from Cackle Hatchery; 9 EE's and 7 Salmon Faverolle. And Shipped eggs 19 from a friend in NJ and 12 from Ebay. I bought a Brinsea 6 years ago, because it had great reviews (set it and leave it - fully automatic - just add water) and I was a novice. And most of the time I had great hatches with. 85% on shipped eggs. That % might have been higher because my first egg autopsy was my last. Couldn't handle the smell. So I might have had infertile eggs. All my eggs were to dark to candle, BCM, OE, EE, and Ameraucanas. But I am a researcher. So I started rereading Incubating information and there new data on hatching. Excellent or is it! I knew about weighing eggs but didn't. "New rules for shipped eggs" - don't turn them for 10 days, close the vent for 7 days but this has a major effect on humidity and appears contradictory. And everyone is suggesting humidity should be lower. A 2 hour cool down period should be done. And timing - warnings about lock down should be exactly 18 full days, not +/- a few hours. Okay I'm not a scientist, I am a financial analyst and except 4% variances. I set the eggs last Friday at 7pm. I did weigh each one, numbered them and candled them for cracks. Created a log and a calendar. The turner is not on. I put a 1/4 cup of water in 1 channel and closed the vent. Now the humidity stayed in the 50's. Tomorrow at 7ish I will candle turn on the turner and go back to my old "set and leave them method". I think the less I handle them the better. I did buy a new cool temp candler for dark eggs, so I have to use it. This other stuff is too much - will it improve my hatch rate or quality - IDK. Other than not turning - is any of the "new rules" important?

Welcome to the thread!

I would turn the eggs after at least 4 days. Day 4-7 are the most important turning days. I wrote a whole post about it citing a scientific study -PDF, but I can't find it right now.

 

[Joyryder]

I have a Brinsea with the cool down feature. I don't use it. Like you, I hatch 85% +. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Welcome to the thread

Thanks I'm out of the purple ring and back to the blue corner. Does anyone use the Brinsea brooder - if you do, do you cover it? I like it because my chicks are calmer at night without a light the light on 24/7. I have shavings and paper towel down on the floor, but they love to go on top of the brooder and it has to be slippery.

 

[RubyNala97]

Hi I have been reading this post for the past 2 days.  Love it!  I haven't hatched in three years, because I moved from NY to PA, and I couldn't take my flock with me.  I'm ready to start again.  My coop is almost done.  I couldn't find hatching eggs or chicks locally.  So I purchase pullet chicks from Cackle Hatchery; 9 EE's and 7 Salmon Faverolle.  And Shipped eggs 19 from a friend in NJ and 12 from Ebay.  I bought a Brinsea 6 years ago, because it had great reviews (set it and leave it - fully automatic - just add water) and I was a novice.   And most of the time I had great hatches with.  85% on shipped eggs.  That % might have been higher because  my first egg autopsy was my last.  Couldn't handle the smell.  So I might have had infertile eggs.  All my eggs were to dark to candle, BCM, OE, EE, and Ameraucanas.  But I am a researcher.  So I started rereading Incubating information and there new data on hatching.  Excellent or is it!  I knew about weighing eggs but didn't.  "New rules for shipped eggs" - don't turn them for 10 days, close the vent for 7 days but this has a major effect on humidity and appears contradictory.  And everyone is suggesting humidity should be lower. A 2 hour cool down period should be done.  And timing - warnings about lock down should be exactly 18 full days, not +/- a few hours.  Okay I'm not a scientist, I am a financial analyst and except 4% variances.  I set the eggs last Friday at 7pm. I did weigh each one, numbered them and candled them for cracks. Created a log and a calendar. The turner is not on.  I put a 1/4 cup of water in 1 channel and closed the vent.   Now the humidity stayed in the 50's.  Tomorrow at 7ish I will candle turn on the turner and go back to my old "set and leave them method".  I think the less I handle them the better.  I did buy a new cool temp candler for dark eggs, so I have to use it. This other stuff is too much - will it improve my hatch rate or quality - IDK.  Other than not turning - is any of the "new rules" important?

Love your post. I, also enjoy reading and doing research. Especially for hatching. Only thing I can add, is that I don't go that long without turning shipped eggs. I go 5-7 days. Usually candle on day 5 to see if air cells stabilized. But like SC said, if that is working for you then by all means keep with it! Good luck on the hatch!

 

[snowbird]

 

[scflock]

Wow, now that is the dream. Thanks, Don

 

[rossfam06]

Guesses on boys/girls??

The last one is definitely a pullet. Not sure about the others.

 

[sideWing]

Hi I have been reading this post for the past 2 days. Love it! I haven't hatched in three years, because I moved from NY to PA, and I couldn't take my flock with me. I'm ready to start again. My coop is almost done. I couldn't find hatching eggs or chicks locally. So I purchase pullet chicks from Cackle Hatchery; 9 EE's and 7 Salmon Faverolle. And Shipped eggs 19 from a friend in NJ and 12 from Ebay. I bought a Brinsea 6 years ago, because it had great reviews (set it and leave it - fully automatic - just add water) and I was a novice. And most of the time I had great hatches with. 85% on shipped eggs. That % might have been higher because my first egg autopsy was my last. Couldn't handle the smell. So I might have had infertile eggs. All my eggs were to dark to candle, BCM, OE, EE, and Ameraucanas. But I am a researcher. So I started rereading Incubating information and there new data on hatching. Excellent or is it! I knew about weighing eggs but didn't. "New rules for shipped eggs" - don't turn them for 10 days, close the vent for 7 days but this has a major effect on humidity and appears contradictory. And everyone is suggesting humidity should be lower. A 2 hour cool down period should be done. And timing - warnings about lock down should be exactly 18 full days, not +/- a few hours. Okay I'm not a scientist, I am a financial analyst and except 4% variances. I set the eggs last Friday at 7pm. I did weigh each one, numbered them and candled them for cracks. Created a log and a calendar. The turner is not on. I put a 1/4 cup of water in 1 channel and closed the vent. Now the humidity stayed in the 50's. Tomorrow at 7ish I will candle turn on the turner and go back to my old "set and leave them method". I think the less I handle them the better. I did buy a new cool temp candler for dark eggs, so I have to use it. This other stuff is too much - will it improve my hatch rate or quality - IDK. Other than not turning - is any of the "new rules" important?

Here it is if you are interested.

http://dev.biologists.org/content/5/3/293.full.pdf