Sick Goose (Diagnosis?)

[AGOOSETAS GLOOP]

Wormer shouldn’t be given longer than 5 days usually so I wouldn’t continue with it.
Like Iain Utah says Mazuri is great and mixing feed in water can encourage him to eat, you can also try a 30% protein feed like purina game bird start to help put weight on quickly.
If he continues refusing to eat unfortunately the only way to help him will be tube feeding with a 60ml syringe. It seems daunting but it isn’t as difficult as it seems.

Mucous in droppings can be a sign of an intestinal infection. Do you have any pictures? Have you noticed anything that’s orange or salmon colored, black, or red?

I have stopped giving him the dewormer and he has begun eating again. However, it appears his right leg has stopped working. His droppings have only been green/brown/yellow. I’m attaching a picture below.

 

[Goosebaby]

I have stopped giving him the dewormer and he has begun eating again. However, it appears his right leg has stopped working. His droppings have only been green/brown/yellow. I’m attaching a picture below.

it looks like there’s some blood and intestinal lining right there.



In my own experience what does this in geese is coccidia, giardia, or clostridium, and often times it’s two or more of them at once.

The proper thing to do is get a vet to perform a gram stain and fecal float to determine which of those is the culprit and to get a prescription, if that isn’t possible “which is almost always the case for me” you can try fish antibiotics, which are the same as human antibiotics.

For Coccidia:
you can get amprolium/ Corid from amazon or tractor supply. Corid acts by inhibiting thiamine absorption for the coccidia, so if you administer any thiamine “a B vitamin” during the 5 day treatment it renders it ineffective.

SMZ TMP is a broad spectrum antibiotic that will kill coccidia, it’s generally safe except that it can’t be administered with potassium supplements because it temporarily blocks the kidneys from filtering out excess potassium which causes problems for the heart.

Toltrazuril will kill coccidia in only three days and isn’t affected by or interacts with vitamins, it’s commonly sold for goats and horses but is fairly pricey unfortunately.


For Giardia:
Metronidazole is the standard antibiotic used to treat Giardia, it can be purchased in the form of fish antibiotics.


For Clostridium:
Poultry are typically infected by C. Perfringens but they can be affected by C.diff also. C. Perfringens is typically treated with Tylosin but it can also be treated with metronidazole which is what’s commonly prescribed for C.diff in humans.
In my own experience using Tylosin in conjunction with metro seems most effective.

Heres some sites I’ve purchased ”fish/ pigeon” antibiotics from.

https://okiedogsupply.com/fish-smz-tmp-30ct/

https://birdpalproducts.com/

https://countrysidepet.com/other-pets/fish/

https://globalpigeonsupply.com/

And this is the only place I’ve found that sells Toltrazuril without a prescription :/
https://horseprerace.com/all-products/

 

[Goosebaby]

I have stopped giving him the dewormer and he has begun eating again. However, it appears his right leg has stopped working. His droppings have only been green/brown/yellow. I’m attaching a picture below.

Also can you describe how his leg has stopped working? Can he move it at all?
does he try to pull it away if you touch it or pinch it?

 

[AGOOSETAS GLOOP]

Also can you describe how his leg has stopped working? Can he move it at all?
does he try to pull it away if you touch it or pinch it?

He does not seem to be able to move it very much. I have noticed a few kicks but for the most part he keeps his foot clenched into a point. He does not seem to care when I touch it. A friend mentioned that it could be a sign of an infection close to the heart and they offered to administer oxytetracycline which he has been taking regularly.

His droppings have improved. He is still unbalanced and weak and I think he is still ill with one of the three things you mentioned since he just has not been treated for them. I discussed with my sibling/his owner on what to do and I am deciding now which medications to purchase.

I already have something called Ronidazole (10% powder) and I want to begin administering it as I saw that it can treat Giardia. The bag says to dose 1 teaspoon/5 grams per half gallon of water. Do you have any opposing opinions on this?

I also found THIS on one of the websites you linked and wanted to know if you had any opinions on it for treating all three of the illnesses you mentioned as it has Amprolium, Ronidazole, and Tylosine. Are Tylosine and Tylosin the same thing? Would you recommend or advise against this product?

 

[Goosebaby]

He does not seem to be able to move it very much. I have noticed a few kicks but for the most part he keeps his foot clenched into a point. He does not seem to care when I touch it. A friend mentioned that it could be a sign of an infection close to the heart and they offered to administer oxytetracycline which he has been taking regularly.

His droppings have improved. He is still unbalanced and weak and I think he is still ill with one of the three things you mentioned since he just has not been treated for them. I discussed with my sibling/his owner on what to do and I am deciding now which medications to purchase.

I already have something called Ronidazole (10% powder) and I want to begin administering it as I saw that it can treat Giardia. The bag says to dose 1 teaspoon/5 grams per half gallon of water. Do you have any opposing opinions on this?

I also found THIS on one of the websites you linked and wanted to know if you had any opinions on it for treating all three of the illnesses you mentioned as it has Amprolium, Ronidazole, and Tylosine. Are Tylosine and Tylosin the same thing? Would you recommend or advise against this product?

My gander had similar issues with his legs when he had lost the ability to walk from clostridium/Giardia infection that caused an imbalance of vitamins in his body. One leg was worse than the other. If your goose has feeling in it that’s a very good sign. It can take a few weeks of administering vitamins and antibiotics for the situation to resolve itself.


Tylosin is the same as tylosine, the latter is a typo.

I’ve tried ronidazole to treat a recurring Giardia and clostridium issue in my gander before but didn’t notice any improvement while he was on it until I switched him back to metronidazole and tylosin so I think whatever strain of Giardia or clostridium he had wasn’t sensitive to ronidazole, so between ronidazole and metronidazole I would recommend metronidazole just for that reason. Since you have ronidazole then it won’t hurt to try it though so definitely give it a shot.

you could definitely try the mix in the link you posted, it has amprolium in it which will take care of any coccidia that might be present and it does have Tylosin in it too. The only thing about mixtures meant to be administered in drinking water is it’s hard to make sure a goose is getting the right dosage because they don’t like drinking it for the awful taste and I’ve noticed the dosages are sometimes too low.
powdered Tylosin I don’t mix in water for this reason, I give it as a crop dosage of 40 mg per kg twice a day.

 

[AGOOSETAS GLOOP]

My gander had similar issues with his legs when he had lost the ability to walk from clostridium/Giardia infection that caused an imbalance of vitamins in his body. One leg was worse than the other. If your goose has feeling in it that’s a very good sign. It can take a few weeks of administering vitamins and antibiotics for the situation to resolve itself.


Tylosin is the same as tylosine, the latter is a typo.

I’ve tried ronidazole to treat a recurring Giardia and clostridium issue in my gander before but didn’t notice any improvement while he was on it until I switched him back to metronidazole and tylosin so I think whatever strain of Giardia or clostridium he had wasn’t sensitive to ronidazole, so between ronidazole and metronidazole I would recommend metronidazole just for that reason. Since you have ronidazole then it won’t hurt to try it though so definitely give it a shot.

you could definitely try the mix in the link you posted, it has amprolium in it which will take care of any coccidia that might be present and it does have Tylosin in it too. The only thing about mixtures meant to be administered in drinking water is it’s hard to make sure a goose is getting the right dosage because they don’t like drinking it for the awful taste and I’ve noticed the dosages are sometimes too low.
powdered Tylosin I don’t mix in water for this reason, I give it as a crop dosage of 40 mg per kg twice a day.

Thank you again for you info thus far. I have ordered medications and they should arrive later today. In the meanwhile I have been administering vitamins regularly.

I believe I accidentally got some vitamins in his wind pipe with the syringe. He seems to be coughing/gargling. Do you have any recommendations as to what I should do in such a scenario?

 

[Goosebaby]

Thank you again for you info thus far. I have ordered medications and they should arrive later today. In the meanwhile I have been administering vitamins regularly.

I believe I accidentally got some vitamins in his wind pipe with the syringe. He seems to be coughing/gargling. Do you have any recommendations as to what I should do in such a scenario?

That can happen, fluid in the lungs isn’t good, some of mine have gotten liquid meds/ vitamins down into the lung by accident and it will usually clear up after a few days to a week.

Using Larger syringes with geese have usually been how I prevented it from happening, smaller syringes are trickier to get far enough down the throat to prevent that, usually 12 ml syringes are what I use, 6ml syringes are okay but have caused me problems. 3ml syringes are accidents waiting to happen.

 

[Goosebaby]

https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...dications-to-all-poultry-and-waterfowl.73335/

Basically with geese you want to insert the syringe as far back in their right side of the throat as you can get the syringe. It can help to squat over the goose, not sitting on them but using your body and legs to pin them into place so they can’t squirm. The faster you do it the easier it is and less stressful also, don’t give them enough time to ponder the situation basically.

 

[AGOOSETAS GLOOP]

https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...dications-to-all-poultry-and-waterfowl.73335/

Basically with geese you want to insert the syringe as far back in their right side of the throat as you can get the syringe. It can help to squat over the goose, not sitting on them but using your body and legs to pin them into place so they can’t squirm. The faster you do it the easier it is and less stressful also, don’t give them enough time to ponder the situation basically.

Thank you. That helps a lot.

The medicine has arrived. What dosages would you recommend? I have attached the concentration amounts via image below.

 

[AGOOSETAS GLOOP]

https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...dications-to-all-poultry-and-waterfowl.73335/

Basically with geese you want to insert the syringe as far back in their right side of the throat as you can get the syringe. It can help to squat over the goose, not sitting on them but using your body and legs to pin them into place so they can’t squirm. The faster you do it the easier it is and less stressful also, don’t give them enough time to ponder the situation basically.

Also, how should I administer it? I am assuming either in his drinking water or in supplemental amounts via syringe.