Sick pigeons

The supplier emailed me he da shipped the birds before I even paid for them, sent the total $170 for the birds,then he emails me and said one was really congested,by the time they arrived,2 were really bad a third the next day,no room to quarantine the rest I put them in with my flock,3of his birds drop dead the first week,then a prize pair of my old German owls drop dead, I have all the birds I bought from him in new cages and all are sick,one won't eat because he wasn't weened,supplier said he only sent one sick bird,he refunded me thirty dollars,me thinking this guy is a credible supplier because he is a judge at shows and the president of a very popular pigeon club across America, have my loft disinfected and birds on respiratory meds as a preventative,I will only buy birds that have been medicated and vaccinated,none if these had neither done. I would never sell a sick bird to anyone,one if the young cock birds he sent was walking funny,the band was over the 3 ties and halfway over back toe,it had grown that way,I had to carefully cut the band off,it is just now regaining some use if the back toe!
 
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Your birds are showing secondary syptoms of salmonella and other probs due to paratyphoid. it can travel through air on feather dust scales mites etc. keep your birds very warm like a hundre degrees, keep dash of apple cider vinager per gallon for water and chance water whenever see any dust etc in. feed chicken layer pellets, or crumbles if can't pick up pellets, n can gently slide layer pellets down to bottom of left side of throat to force feed gently sort of for birds under weight or not eating well.can also feed kaytee exact formula, that has close to crop milk etc, but slow n messy. i give cheap proios to put in good gut bacteria etc n push. out etc bad ones, n acv will help with as bad bacteria n such generally don't do so good in acidic environment, but good bacteria etc n enzymes do good from. was birds if/when dirty n dusty etc using old fashioned dawn dishsoap as always kills bad bacteria etc shed all over bird from every opening etc. wash oras least scrub down/off everytin dawn as soon as see dirty, especially white n the discharge. maybe invest in cheap heater ni air purification machines and have quarantine shed or room. again keep feed water perches feet feathers faces vents a very clean as are greatest way birds reinfect selves and others, and made easier recovery if on wire bottomed lower cage and just use bricks or blocks for perches. Keep drop area under wire bottom and wire bottom very clean as dust from n poop largest air borne
Spreaders, as well as nasal discharge, and feather dust. spread from flapping, preening each other, sneezing and getting on others and in feed n water, n were walk n perch. birds may develope large swollen or rounded masses on upper legs n or wingsn neck,causing twisting of n or lamness of parts of or whole body, or bumble foot type swelling or sudden syptom of. these will disipate after cause gone and not wryneck etc. seizures may develope butwill disapate, as well, as canker seeming syptoms. birds can carry and not show or easily re show syptoms noticably for years n spread, but sudden cold chill, shipping especially all confined to dirty box etc together, as any decent stress can cause flare up and shedding of disease. by time most would notice outword syptoms its already been spread.
I've saved some birds from culling that then made great fliers and stock birds once immune systems supplemented etc then keep that immunity and are not sick again, as a lot of birds get reacurring and pass bad and not good on.
 
Sorry so long winded but paratyphiod manifests and mimics many ailments that are culled immediately for or treated expensivelly and wrong mostly, being completely ineffectual besides running birds down more, even by many vets treating secondery typtoms showing. Try to keep very calm warm spread out n quiet. if in shed or room you can then heat etc in all wire standard large meat rabbit rack cages 30" x 36" x 16", then deep trays that are with hold poo etc, and can have a heat on individual cages for few to several birds each.

good luck to you and your other birds if decide against culling and burning down old loft ol skool style.
 
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Hello, when my pigeon or chicken are sick, like they lost control over they body, turning eyes, like they are about to faint, I give them amoxicillin, its a pill, usually in red and black, it works all the time, I would like to know why? Its not a doctor advice, It saved my cousin Chicken few days ago, only one pill. I used it about 15 years ago when my Danish tumbler was about to die, i was a kid and saved money for months to buy him, so desperate times, desperate measures, i gave him the pill, and in minutes he was better than ever.
I tried amoxicillin for ten days,then I believe it went into parathyphoid,I am using 4-1 powder and they are looking better,will medicate for another 3 days and switch to probiotics with vitamins,keep them quarantined for a few more weeks and see how they look.u loft is a new loft with ventilation,insulated,above ground flight pen.
 
Paratyphiod mostly spread by pests (transferred from house pet hookbills or wild songbirds, mice, flies, roaches) initially into most good solid floored lofts, i took my bitds to avian expert vet and he treated with several meds over several months, that was very expensive (luckily these were quarantined and only five performance pigeons). For someone without money to build second or quarantine loft, costly vet treatment that a lot don't have access to is unrealistic, and bitds are better off not suffering through to pass on and have heads pulled off first, by most common working or young enthusiasts, and seen people put off of keeping pigeons because assume all always cosly eith meds to maintain, or go on conferming to others that pigeons are sickly filthy creatures and all personal experience have. i just proposed cheap simple solutions, asa good vet would have you do those as well. FYI i was a vet asst four over three years, and no antibiotic will cure a bird in minutes, but vet rx and other things will kill bad gut bacteria and coat systems, making feel instantly better because of alcohol content (directions have you put on main spots shed virus etc from). paratyphoid very hard to pin down unless get lucky or have very keen vet, most for none other than rare,exotic or expensive birds, as most vets openly tell to just break necks of doves songbirds and lesser hookbills like budgierdiers (parakeets in usa), and just get new ones.
 
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All of my loft birds are doing great and look healthy,the birds that had respiratory problems that led to parathyphoid or salmonella are now eating and drinking and looking good except for a young one that wasn't fully weened,it drinks but won't eat,so been hand feeding the youngster till he is doing better.
 
You have some very good advice from LaughingDog on this thread.

In the future, you should ALWAYS quarantine ALL your new birds until you can be sure that it is to safe to introduce them to your main loft. I have seen HUNDREDS of birds wind up destroyed by people who did not practice this.

For the safest results, you should also make it a point to spray off and disinfect any boots/shoes (preferably with a STRONG bleach solution) as you go back and forth between the quarantine loft and the rest of your lofts.

An ounce of prevention will save you much heartache.
 
All of my loft birds are doing great and look healthy,the birds that had respiratory problems that led to parathyphoid or salmonella are now eating and drinking and looking good except for a young one that wasn't fully weened,it drinks but won't eat,so been hand feeding the youngster till he is doing better.
So pleased for you.

They are on medication for the parathyphoid and salmonella right?

If they recover without having the right drugs they will be carriers of the disease and will spread it to your other birds in the future.
 

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