Sick Rooster :(

Birds need to be handled...you both need to learn how and learn to tolerate it.
I only handle birds off the roost at night, I don't chase chickens.
My cockbird is very large but pretty docile off the roost at night(once I get this wings pinned down-which can be hard as my hands barely reach around him) put him on my lap with a towel over his head and I can do anything to him.
Sometimes I have to put him on the table or floor cause he's too big for my lap,
my coop is in a large shed so room for a chair and card table...very handy!
I wear a headlight so see what I'm doing and have both hands free.

I would trim his butt feathers to about 1/2" from the skin, then look for bugs.
Might want to isolate him in a crate fr some observations, inducing collecting poop for a fecal float(your vet could probably do that).


Bugs Check:
Have you checked them over real well for mites and/or lice?

Google images of lice/mites and their eggs before the inspection so you'll know what you're looking for.

Part the feathers right down to the skin around vent, head/neck and under wings.

Best done well after dark with a strong flashlight/headlight, easier to 'catch' bird and also to check for the mites that live in structure and only come out at night to feed off roosting birds.

Wipe a white paper towel along the underside of roost to look for red smears(smashed well fed mites).


Isolation crate:
I'd isolate bird in a wire cage within the coop for a day or two....so you can closely monitor their intake of food and water, crop function(checking at night and in morning before providing more feed), and their poops.

Best to put crate right in coop or run so bird is still 'with' the flock.
I like to use a fold-able wire dog crate (24"L x 18"W x 21"H) with smaller mesh(1x2) on bottom of crate under tray.
Then you can put tray underneath crate to better observe droppings without it being stepped in. If smaller mesh is carefully installed, tray can still be used inside crate.
 
Cedar shavings are not good for chickens’ breathing. But I would think he would be better now. About the only decent medicine you can get without a vet is Tylan 50 injectable, and you can give it orally minus the needle from the syringe. It is a cattle antibiotic sold at some feed stores, and will treat MG in chickens. Dosage is 0.25 ml per pound given 3 times a day for 5 days. Since he doesn’t allow handling, you may need to put it in a treat or some egg. Antibiotics are only for bacterial diseases, and some are caused by viruses or fungus.
Most other antibiotics need to come from a vet or ordered online for pigeons.
Another more broad spectrum antibiotic is enrofloxacin (Baytril) which treats a lot of bacteria. It is banned for chicken in the US, but used for other animals. Many use it on chickens. You can order it online for pigeons here:
https://www.jedds.com/shop/misc/

Another choice is doxycycline for respiratory diseases:
https://www.allivet.com/mobile/p-35...7-c0rfoj4j4cr5er5j9dutoxuqqmkbyhoce2kqavd_bwe
 
Birds need to be handled...you both need to learn how and learn to tolerate it.
I only handle birds off the roost at night, I don't chase chickens.
My cockbird is very large but pretty docile off the roost at night(once I get this wings pinned down-which can be hard as my hands barely reach around him) put him on my lap with a towel over his head and I can do anything to him.
Sometimes I have to put him on the table or floor cause he's too big for my lap,
my coop is in a large shed so room for a chair and card table...very handy!
I wear a headlight so see what I'm doing and have both hands free.

I would trim his butt feathers to about 1/2" from the skin, then look for bugs.
Might want to isolate him in a crate fr some observations, inducing collecting poop for a fecal float(your vet could probably do that).


Bugs Check:
Have you checked them over real well for mites and/or lice?

Google images of lice/mites and their eggs before the inspection so you'll know what you're looking for.

Part the feathers right down to the skin around vent, head/neck and under wings.

Best done well after dark with a strong flashlight/headlight, easier to 'catch' bird and also to check for the mites that live in structure and only come out at night to feed off roosting birds.

Wipe a white paper towel along the underside of roost to look for red smears(smashed well fed mites).


Isolation crate:
I'd isolate bird in a wire cage within the coop for a day or two....so you can closely monitor their intake of food and water, crop function(checking at night and in morning before providing more feed), and their poops.

Best to put crate right in coop or run so bird is still 'with' the flock.
I like to use a fold-able wire dog crate (24"L x 18"W x 21"H) with smaller mesh(1x2) on bottom of crate under tray.
Then you can put tray underneath crate to better observe droppings without it being stepped in. If smaller mesh is carefully installed, tray can still be used inside crate.

Thank you,

I will try to trim his vent at night. He is much more calm then. The chickens did have little red mites but I gave them each their own DE bath rub down and changed the bedding. Hopefully it's just stuck on poo he has.

As for the respiratory issue. I just went down to the coop and he is wheezing lightly and it sounds like labored breathing. I am afraid it will get to the point to where he can't breathe I really need to get him on some sort of antibiotic just not sure which one...

Could a vet detect a respiratory infection through a fecal float? I thought it was only to detect parasites?

Thanks so much!
 
If you have one wheezing, you need to not use DE, since it can irritate the airway and eyes of you and the birds. Permethrin 10 spray or dust is good to use to treat lice and mites directly on the bird and to spray the coop when changing out the bedding in the coop and nests. It mixes with water for use in a spray bottle or garden sprayer.
 
I thought it was only to detect parasites?
The runny poop could indicate worms,
would be good to rule that out as long as you have a vet that works with birds.
Could also be his diet tho.
What all and how exactly do you feed?

Oh and Welcome to BYC.
Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, (laptop version shown), then it's always there!
upload_2019-2-16_20-19-14.png
 
If you have one wheezing, you need to not use DE, since it can irritate the airway and eyes of you and the birds. Permethrin 10 spray or dust is good to use to treat lice and mites directly on the bird and to spray the coop when changing out the bedding in the coop and nests. It mixes with water for use in a spray bottle or garden sprayer.

That's a great help. I will switch to that instead. I did think it could further irritate him so I used DE food grade sparingly
 
Cedar shavings are not good for chickens’ breathing. But I would think he would be better now. About the only decent medicine you can get without a vet is Tylan 50 injectable, and you can give it orally minus the needle from the syringe. It is a cattle antibiotic sold at some feed stores, and will treat MG in chickens. Dosage is 0.25 ml per pound given 3 times a day for 5 days. Since he doesn’t allow handling, you may need to put it in a treat or some egg. Antibiotics are only for bacterial diseases, and some are caused by viruses or fungus.
Most other antibiotics need to come from a vet or ordered online for pigeons.
Another more broad spectrum antibiotic is enrofloxacin (Baytril) which treats a lot of bacteria. It is banned for chicken in the US, but used for other animals. Many use it on chickens. You can order it online for pigeons here:
https://www.jedds.com/shop/misc/

Another choice is doxycycline for respiratory diseases:
https://www.allivet.com/mobile/p-35...7-c0rfoj4j4cr5er5j9dutoxuqqmkbyhoce2kqavd_bwe
Thank you!

I will look into those options. Is there any harm in treating him with one of those options if he does not have any of those illnesses? Side effects?

A vet I spoke to over the phone suggested tetracycline as a water additive. Do you have any experience with this?

Could a fecal float test tell me anything respiratory related? Or is that not needed?
 
The runny poop could indicate worms,
would be good to rule that out as long as you have a vet that works with birds.
Could also be his diet tho.
What all and how exactly do you feed?

Oh and Welcome to BYC.
Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, (laptop version shown), then it's always there!
View attachment 1675759

Thanks,

I live in Alabama. I give them Dumor feed pellets, scratch and fresh fruits and vegetables (varied mix) I just throw it all on the ground for them to eat. I think I will do a fecal float at the vet. My biggest concern though at the moment is his labored breathing. Thanks!!!
 
A fecal test will only tell you if there are parasites in the droppings, not a respiratory disease. We used to be able to buy tetracycline over the counter, but since 2017, you can’t. The Tylan 50 is easy enough to find sometimes, along with syringes and needles to withdraw it from the vial. And you can give it orally or by injection. A vet can give you Tylan Powder for the water if you can find one locally that treats chickens. If you have time for shipping, the Baytril or doxycycline is very food.
 
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