Six by 8 coop plans?

[Demonaca]

I don't understand. No floor AND elevated? So is the hardware cloth the "floor"? Or is there going to be a space between the bottom of the wall and the ground?

It's going to be like what U_Stormcrow described. Were elevating the wood frame base off the dirt with the flat side of a cinder block(so it wont be much if a gap anyways making the floor of the coop dirt in actuality lol) just to help prevent any rot from the wood sitting directly on the ground, any gaps between the ground and the wood will be filled in with wire straight down into the ground about two or three foot down(I havent figure out exactly how deep we need to take the wire yet because everyone has different depths they do) to prevent predators from being able to come in through that small gap between the ground and wood that will be created. Then I'm going to go out flat with the wire about a foot or two around the perimeter of the entire coop with wire underneath the ground so nothing can dig into the ground and then under into the coop because if they try to dig in they'll hit wire and if they some how get past that wire we have surrounding the perimeter under ground, they wont be able to dig from underneath because they'll hit the wire we placed straight in the ground attached to the bottom of the wood.

 

[Demonaca]

If you're using pressure treated plywood. You will have to make sure it's dried before you primer and paint it. I now use pressure treated wood. I didn't in the past but eventually the wood rotted so now it's all pressure treated. A friend built his coop out of pressure treated wood with no paint. The wood does have a weathered look but it's sturdy and he hasn't has issues with the wood rotting.

As far as I'm aware its dry lol I'm buying everything from lowes currently(so everything is kept indoors) as our local lumber supply is actually like twice as expensive as lowes.

 

[Ridgerunner]

the flat side of a cinder block

Why the flat side of a cinder block? I read this to mean the holes will be horizontal? Are you looking for ventilation? The traditional method is with the holes vertical topped with a wooden sill. However you do it you need to get the cinder blocks level. That stops vermin or other critters from using the holes as a route inside and you can manage ventilation other ways. I think the holes running horizontal just gives vermin an opportunity. I'm thinking of snakes as much as anything else. Keep it simple. Besides, the bedding inside the coop floor will block the holes so no ventilation benefit if they are horizontal.

Attach your apron wire to the wooden sill and run it vertical to the ground, then bend it 90 degrees and go out maybe 18". You don't have to bury it but I like to remove the turf, say 2" deep, and put that turf back on top. It's very effective against digging critters and is out of the way of weed eaters and lawn mowers. You can hold it down with lumber, blocks, or rocks until grass grows through it and holds it down but I've had some issues with the apron wanting to curl up enough to catch a weed eater when I did that inside a dog pen to keep the dogs in.

My coop has a dirt floor. When I built it I hauled in enough clay dirt to raise the floor level 2" to 3" to keep water out. I don't know your topography but if rainwater run-off runs toward your coop you might want to consider that. I also put a gentle berm and swale on the uphill side of the coop and run to keep rainwater run-off away.

 

[Demonaca]

Why the flat side of a cinder block? I read this to mean the holes will be horizontal? Are you looking for ventilation? The traditional method is with the holes vertical topped with a wooden sill. However you do it you need to get the cinder blocks level. That stops vermin or other critters from using the holes as a route inside and you can manage ventilation other ways. I think the holes running horizontal just gives vermin an opportunity. I'm thinking of snakes as much as anything else. Keep it simple. Besides, the bedding inside the coop floor will block the holes so no ventilation benefit if they are horizontal.

Attach your apron wire to the wooden sill and run it vertical to the ground, then bend it 90 degrees and go out maybe 18". You don't have to bury it but I like to remove the turf, say 2" deep, and put that turf back on top. It's very effective against digging critters and is out of the way of weed eaters and lawn mowers. You can hold it down with lumber, blocks, or rocks until grass grows through it and holds it down but I've had some issues with the apron wanting to curl up enough to catch a weed eater when I did that inside a dog pen to keep the dogs in.

My coop has a dirt floor. When I built it I hauled in enough clay dirt to raise the floor level 2" to 3" to keep water out. I don't know your topography but if rainwater run-off runs toward your coop you might want to consider that. I also put a gentle berm and swale on the uphill side of the coop and run to keep rainwater run-off away.

We've already flattened and leveled the land for the coop and i think you misunderstood the way I'm setting the cinder blocks or my cinder blocks are different thans yours, because on mine the flat wider side is where the holes are and the thinner side is solid concrete so putting them the way I'm planning would have the hole pointed to the ground and wood not pointed to the outside of the coop.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I was hoping I was misunderstanding it. Sounds good to me.

 

[Demonaca]

I was hoping I was misunderstanding it. Sounds good to me.

I'm also not that great at describing anything so I'm sure that didnt help lol what size wire did yall end up using for the apron? My local stores seem to only have 1/4 inch or a Half inch, and I plan to double it up for extra dig proof.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I used what I had left over to a certain extent. 1/2" hardware cloth and 2" x 4" welded wire. What I bought for the apron was the 2x4 welded wire. The digging predators I wanted to stop were coyotes, raccoons, skunks, and foxes mainly. The way my run was built a snake, mouse, or rat could get in anyway so why protect against them. With the pop door open if they can get in the run they can get in the coop.

 

[Demonaca]

I used what I had left over to a certain extent. 1/2" hardware cloth and 2" x 4" welded wire. What I bought for the apron was the 2x4 welded wire. The digging predators I wanted to stop were coyotes, raccoons, skunks, and foxes mainly. The way my run was built a snake, mouse, or rat could get in anyway so why protect against them. With the pop door open if they can get in the run they can get in the coop.

The only predators I really have to worry about where I live are skunks and possums. We have barn cats and indoor outdoor cats so I've literally never seen a rat or mouse anywhere lol but I so know we have rat snakes to so I have to protect the eggs from them.

 

[cmom]

As far as I'm aware its dry lol I'm buying everything from lowes currently(so everything is kept indoors) as our local lumber supply is actually like twice as expensive as lowes.

They are constantly getting wood in and sometimes it's not completely dried out. The paint doesn't adhere well especially latex paints if the wood isn't completely dried out. I found out the hard way.

 

[Demonaca]

They are constantly getting wood in and sometimes it's not completely dried out. The paint doesn't adhere well especially latex paints if the wood isn't completely dried out. I found out the hard way.

Thanks! I'll make sure to let it dry out for a few days if i need to!