I know this was addressed to Jerry, but he was too slow answering....
When I first got my sawmill I looked into this. I found the answer to be a definite "maybe".
The majority of old barns and homes built here in MN, were built with green lumber. Much of it popple. Popple is abundant and easy to use when green. If you frame with it and nail in in place it will dry relatively straight. When dry it is hard as oak. Find and old barn and try to drive a nail into it. You may want a whole box of nails with you to get one to go in straight.
The problem I found was not the framing but the finishing. You can fasten the wood so it does shrink longitudinally. However laterally is another matter. When I talked to the old timers they said that is why they made "lap siding" instead of tongue and grove. You got a larger "lap" that would not leave spaces between the boards..
Air drying boards is not a solution either. I tried this with some Oak flooring I had made. First off, I did it wrong, I must have, almost every piece twisted and bend, or the ends lifted. Also if you get a straight dry piece and nail them into a flat surface, like a floor or table top it will heave and shrink during its life.
The research I did showed me the wood has to be heat dried (kiln) to at least 120-130 degrees internally. The heat breaks the cells in the wood so it does not absorb moisture. Until the cells are broken the wood is worthless for smooth surfaces.
BTW I justified my saw mill in all the ways Jerry is trying to use on his DW. Judy is still waiting for mine to pay for itself.......Every now and then she throws that little spear at me.
