Teaching Chicken Class! Advice plz.

[blondiebee181]

Oh, okay! Thanks Lazy Gardener!!

 

[TalkALittle]

Hello all,

I just got a job at my local feed store, and am SUPER excited about it. They are a great company, employee centered and focused on sustainable and pesticide free practices. ANYWAYS, they know how crazy and passionate I am about raising chickens and they will be getting their shipments of chicks soon, which means...they will be teaching beginner chicken raising classes starting also that week. I have already expressed interest to my managers about teaching or helping teach classes, as my degree is in education and I feel like I am knowledgeable enough to pass on my chicken keeping knowledge to others. SO, that being said, I am going to come up with about an hours worth of material and create an outline about what I feel is important to teach people that probably don't have a lot of knowledge about chicken keeping. I would like to tackle the class mostly from a backyard chicken keepers perspective, as I believe most of our clientele will probably be most interested in that area.

I have some basic categories to touch on like "Buying your first chicks/breeds and their uses", "Proper brooders and adult housing/runs", "Feeding and Watering", "Basic cleaning and maintenance", "Ducks?", "Transitioning from the brooder to coop and egg laying ages", "Basic ailments and injuries", "Additional resources"

Please feel free to post in this thread things you think are pertinent, or wish you had known as a beginner so I can be sure to include it in my outline.

Well, I've done my share of presentations in a retail environment so I just want to share a couple things that might help your presentations go smoothly.

Less is more. It's hard not to share everything you know, but beware of inundating your students with too much information. It's better to thoroughly cover a few topics than to overwhelm them with so much stuff that they leave with their head spinning. Have more topics that you keep in reserve that you can present in case you cover things more quickly than you thought or in case you end up with an audience that already has a pretty decent knowledge of the basic stuff.

Eventually you may want to consider a series of classes, each on a different topic. It'll give customers a reason to come back to the store multiple times (and buy stuff each time) and your managers will like that. It will also attract other chicken keepers with varied experience that might not want to come to an "intro" class. For example, I probably wouldn't attend a class if I thought it was going to be all about setting up new chicks, but I would be interested in a "caring for your mixed flock" or "protecting your backyard flock from predators" seminar. You can also cater to different niches by offering topics like "Urban Chicken keeping" or a similar topic that's relevant to your stores client base. A lot of the info will be the same, but you can cater to the specific needs of that particular type of customer and make recommendations based on the buying habits of different niche customers.

Nothing gets them through the door like free stuff does. Even if it is just refreshments or a coupon for $ off their next bag of feed. Ask your managers if they can get any coupons or samples from their suppliers and then use them to cross-merchandise, encourage repeat visits, and build future sales. Example: Most new chick buyers will be buying brooder lamps and starter feed so have those supplies prominently displayed near your presentation area so you don't miss out on those sales. They most likely won't be thinking about shopping for stuff for when their chicks are a little older, but you should be thinking about that. Hand out coupons for scratch feed and even have a bag open to dole out Ziploc samples of it to use when their chicks are old enough while you mention that they should come to the seminar next month on "Care and Nutrition for Your Laying Flock" so they can learn all about how to care for their chicks as they approach point of lay and beyond. You'll be setting the foundation for brand loyalty and getting those customers to think of you and your store as a go-to resource for all future questions. This translates to customer loyalty and repeat visits which translate to increased sales and happy managers.

Always leave time at the end for a Q&A session. At the start of your talk, state that you will take questions at the end. Don't let anyone derail your presentation with a lot of questions--and trust me, they will try. Don't feel bad about saying "That's a great question and we'll talk more about it at the end." or "That's a good point and something I'll be discussing in my "Protecting Your Flock from Predators" seminar next week". Doing so will prevent you from running over or going too far off-topic and will also prevent any one customer from monopolizing your attention.

Hand out a checklist at the end that concisely summarizes the main ideas in your presentation. A lot of feed manufactures offer pamphlets that do a decent job of summarizing the basics of raising chicks. See if your store might already have them or is able to order them. If they don't already have it included in these pamphlets, include a shopping list to remind customers of essential and suggested products. Ask your managers to make sure that other associates will be available to help assist customers with purchases after the class. You don't want anyone to leave discouraged because they weren't getting enough assistance.

Expect that there will be someone in the audience that will contradict your information. Resist the urge to counter their argument. Instead say something like "Well if there's one thing I've learned, it's that there are as many ways to raise chickens as there are people who raise chickens. There are lots of ideas out there, but I've found this to the safest/most convenient/most economical/most practical/etc. way so that's why I've chosen to talk about it." Then just continue to present your material. Even if what they said was wrong, just acknowledge that that is how they choose to do it but you are going to present it as you think it should be done, and move on. Don't let them derail you.

Good luck with the classes. I'm sure you'll do great! It was always a favorite part of my job when I worked retail.

 

[blondiebee181]

Thanks TalkALittle! I totally understand about long-winded presentations, I've definitely sat through my share of those! Thankfully if there's one thing my teaching degree taught me, it's how to make clear, concise presentations that don't tangent or become wrapped up in too much detail, (keeping the attention of kids is tougher than keeping the attention of adults, mostly

). I love your thoughts about merchandising and directing the customers towards the products they can easily access at our store. I definitely thought about offering cookies and coffee at the door as well, but I will need to check with the managers about that. I really wanted to make a power point, because a lot of folks prefer visual aids, but we don't have that kind of stuff at the store, so I will have access to our merchandise (to make a little display out of

) and a chart of breeds and any photos I want to bring to share, but that will be it.

 

[centrarchid]

Adequate housing for each life-stage. Many first timers are consistently having to catch up on needs of their charges as they grow. Usually too little space. A little natural history emphasizing social interactions needed. I also emphasize that hand-reared / brooder-reared chicks can provide special challenges relative to what a hen-raised chicks provide.

 

[TalkALittle]

Thankfully if there's one thing my teaching degree taught me, it's how to make clear, concise presentations that don't tangent or become wrapped up in too much detail, (keeping the attention of kids is tougher than keeping the attention of adults, mostly

).

Somehow I missed that you had a teaching degree. I'm sure you've got it in the bag then. In a lot of ways teaching adults is easier than teaching kids, but the one big difference that I've found is that kids come in like clean slates with little to no preconceived notions, but adults come in with all sorts of ideas of what they think they need to learn.

Let us know how the classes go.

 

[Egghead_Jr]

Narrowing down the topics would give more emphasis on them. The amount of material your thinking of covering took me years to learn hands on and online. I suggest multiple classes over the course of the year. Simply start with brooder types and techniques, feeding and care of chicks, feather sexing and feathering enough for outside coops, temporary grow out coops vs. permanent structures, proper ventilation, bedding and of course samples from your store of waterers-feeders-feed types-blue kote... That there is easily over an hour needing to go into another class. Another class on pecking order, common diseases, conditioning roosters and preparing for winter- showing off your stores tarps, heated metal water mounts, plastic heated waterer, rubber water bowls. Then there is always time for a class on incubators your store sells and basic incubating technique combined again with basic brooding. Yup, I see 3 distinct classes to be offered at chick days, mid summer/fall geared for permanent coops, diseases/injuries and winterizing then a winter class for incubating and brooding.

Not to mention a class for care and butchering of Meat birds. Showing off turkey fryers for heating water, drill pluckers, scales and of course how well the store bought meaties did on the store feed. Outside summer event obviously.

So that's four classes that educate, show off product and show customers your a step above competitors.

 

[Percheron chick]

Stick with just chick care for the first one. The people that will be there will all be first time owners. They've got months before they need to know anything about layer diets and molting. Just keep the information relevant for the next 8 weeks. Feather and toe picking? Diet, what to do if they aren't eating, loud chirping, sleepy, brooder size and supplemental heat (show them how to properly measure temp at chick level), when they can go outside, what to do with unwanted roosters, what to do with the chickens when the kids no longer want them (what's the store's Easter chick policy?) pasty butt, To the dirt question, I add a pie plate of dirt the first week to give them something to play in helps with behavioral issues.

I would close out the session with information on what the adult hens will need for appropriate housing. They have 8 weeks to figure that out even if it's just a hand out.

 

[blondiebee181]

Thanks guys, it's easy for me to go on about chickens for sure! The one thing I need to clarify with my manager is if each progressive class IS going to cover different material, or if each class needs to cover chick through young adult basics all in an hour-ish. I'm going to attach my outline here to see what you guys think....and this IS everything I would like to cover if the class needs to clear chick-young adult all at once. If Each class is going to be progressive, I might consider definitely gearing this presentation more towards babies and baby housing and feed only.

INTRO:
Hi, I’m Megan Willhite. I was born and raised here in Boise, and although I am new to Zamzows, I have been raising my little backyard flock of 5 chickens and 2 ducks for about 4 years now. I decided to get chickens because I have a passion for sustainability and everyone I talked to said they are a delight to have around and fairly easy to maintain. The focus of this class is on backyard or urban style chicken keeping with an emphasis on egg-laying hens. It’s impossible for me to completely cover every single detail about chicken keeping in the short time we have this morning, but I hope to at least give you as much basic information as possible. Please feel free to ask questions or let me know if I need to clarify any information as we go along, but also try to save as many questions as you can until the end.

• How many of you have ever had, or knows someone who has ever owned chickens?
• Is there anyone here looking to raise chickens for a different purpose than eggs? Meat perhaps?
• How many people currently reside in Boise? The limit here is 6, the last I heard. Be sure you are familiar with all laws and ordinances attached to raising backyard chickens. For example, Roosters are not allowed in city limits.

SETUP: BROODERS

• Brooder Boxes can be cardboard, plastic, or wood, but must be large enough to allow about a square foot per chick and it is advised not to use boxes with any holes like a laundry basket.
• The Brooder can be bedded with any of the following: Straw, wood pellets (best for water fowl), pine shavings or sand. Absolutely NO cedar, and no paper towels or newspapers. They get messy too quickly and newspaper is slippery under little chick feet. If you keep ducks: Ducks drink water. Ducks dabble and drip water. Ducks swim in water. Ducks poop water. The biggest key (and challenge) to brooding ducks and chicks together is keeping the space dry. I recommend to everyone I talk to who is brooding ducks to go buy yourself a bag of horse-stall type wood pellets (NOT stove burning), and save yourself some effort .
• The Brooder must have a heat lamp, either red or clear it doesn’t matter, but NO regular lamps. The internal temperature of the brooder on day one should be about 90-95 degrees, and the decreased by about 5 degrees each following week so that the chicks fledge well and start building a tolerance to cooler temps. PLEASE mount the heat lamp so it is SAFE. They can and will start fires if you do not clamp or anchor them properly. If you don’t have a thermometer or are unsure if your brooder is too hot or too cold, watch the chicks…are they huddled in a tight ball directly under the lamp? It’s too cold. Are they hiding in the furthest corners or panting? It’s too hot.
• Feeders can be mason jar, corrugated steel, plastic, glass…pretty much whatever you want. I started my chicks with cut up egg cartons. Anything that they cannot crawl into or tip over will be fine.
• Mason jar styles make the best chick waterers as well but please make sure they cannot be tipped over or that the chicks cannot get into them and soak themselves. If you have ducklings, this is crucial. Water is very important to ducks, they use it as they eat to help soften their food and they consume A LOT of water, but it is important that the water is elevated and spill free so that they cannot swim or dabble it all out into the bedding.
• Adult feed and waterers are basically just larger versions of chick feed and waterers and everyone is different and likes to use different things, so don’t feel pressured to use any 1 system. I’ll talk more about adulthood further on.
• As your chicks get older, they may start flying up to the edge of the box. A chunk of poultry wire over the top or some bird netting anchored with a couple books will keep them in, but please make sure your chicks are up high or tucked away in a room safe from other household pets like dogs and cats. Do not allow children unattended with the chicks. Children have good intentions, but can sometimes be too rough without meaning to be. Let’s not end this cute, fluffy adventure with any unfortunate accidents.
• Training roosts. Chickens roost when they sleep or rest, this means perching on a branch. Providing branches as “training roosts” in the brooder is a good idea to get your chicks accustomed to sleeping this way. At about 3-4 weeks you can do this. Don’t be discouraged when they don’t know what to do or how to use them. Simply pick up a chick and place it on the roost. After a while they will get the idea. Be aware again that this puts your chicks in a situation where they will be closer to the top of the box, so make sure you cover it so they do not hop out.
• Baby duckies may take supervised baths. This can be in the sink or tub or a large mixing bowl. Mine even used to come in the shower with me, but the water must be warm and the ducklings must be toweled off after and placed under the heat lamp as their feathers are not waterproof yet.

COOPS/RUNS
Hopefully you are like me and have made a pretty clear decision on your coop wants and needs before buying chicks, but if not, don’t worry. You have about 2 months to decide.

• If you are feeling creative or know someone skilled at carpentry, there are many different ways to build your own chicken housing and run. If you are not skilled in those areas or simply don’t have a lot of extra time to commit to building a house from scratch, not to worry…Zamzows offers a variety of different pre-made housing options. Just remember, the amount of space in your chicken coop and run directly impacts the number of chickens you can allow yourself. (That and the city ordinance). The minimum space requirement for each chicken in the actual coop is about 4 sq. feet/bird. This is assuming that the coop is being used mainly for sleeping and roosting, and the chickens are going to be given a run in which to exercise, dust and get away from one another. In the run, please allow 8-10 sq. feet minimum per bird. Remember, the point of owning our own chickens is to enhance their lifestyle and allow them to live as naturally as possible. Also, the more space you allow them, the less of a cleaning Nazi you will need to be.
• Ideally, 2 nest boxes should cover the needs of 3-4 hens. Hens tend to have “favorite” boxes and will often crowd each other in order to use one, but it is important to at least provide options. Pine shavings and/or straw are good options for lining nest boxes. Fake eggs will eventually serve as a good encouragement for the hens to use the boxes for laying.
• Roosts. Chickens are roosting birds and they like to get up high at night, off the ground to sleep. The most effective coops have 2 to 3 different roosts, placed at different heights so the chickens can have space away from each other if they choose. Many people use a ladder-type system that is easy for the chickens to climb and choose where they want to be.
• The chicken coop can be bedded with the same materials the brooder was, it’s purely a matter of choice, but my philosophy is to cut down on the amount of cleaning and maintenance I have to do. My coop was designed with a pull-out litter drawer and a welded wire floor, for easier cleanup.
• Chickens will have the easiest time entering the coop from a ramp, mine hinges up and down so it can be latched shut if necessary. My coops roof also hinges open for easy egg collecting. There is also a small door on the side that opens to help with cleaning. If I were to build a new coop, I would definitely make it walk-in for easier access, but yours certainly doesn’t have to be.
• Chicken tractors are an option. I wouldn’t recommend them for more than 3 birds. They are usually A-frame style and include a small coop and run that has wheels on one end and handles on the other. The idea is that the whole structure can be moved around your yard, so the hens have fresh space each day.
• Runs can be made of chicken wire stretched between posts, you can build your own out of wood picket, or my personal favorite: chainlink. I picked up my first set of chainlink fencing on Craigslist and it has been very effective, just keep in mind that young birds may be small enough to squeeze through the links so chicken wire may need to be stretched around the bottom foot and a half or so. Chickens like to dig, folks so make sure you place your coop and run in an area you aren’t super fond of because they will eat/scratch up any plant-life. I now put down traction sand in my chicken run because it accomplishes 3 things: It keeps the smell down and helps with mud, it drains well, and it provides a good source of grit for the chickens. It’s basically a big litter box.
• The most important thing to remember when designing/choosing a coop and run is to be mindful of potential predators in your area. This can include raccoons, hawks, owls, stoats or weasles, skunks and foxes. Be aware of which predators frequent your area and take measures to protect your birds.
• It’s also important to keep your coop clean and tidy. Small, daily cleanups are the most effective. Keep poop out of the nests and change the bedding out when it is soiled. It depends on the number of birds you have as to how often the bedding will need changing, please use good judgment. Feel free to compost, as chicken poop makes great fertilizer. I also scrub the roosts, wire floor and their waterers twice a year with vinegar water. The cleaner it is, the less likely your birds will pick up parasites or bacteria.
• DUCKS! If you plan to keep ducks, guess what? Their housing is even easier than chickens. Ducks do not roost and are perfectly content to sleep in a simple, covered, straw-lined shelter. I use an old doghouse with a roof that comes off so it is easy to clean and collect eggs out of. Ducks do not need separate nest boxes. Ducks do not absolutely need pools for swimming, but they are MUCH happier if they do. For 2 ducks like I have, a small plastic kiddie pool is plenty of water for them to wash in and it’s easy to clean out. If a pool is not an option, it is essential that ducks are provided with water bowls deep enough for them to clear their noses in.

GENERAL SUPPLIES
Please consider getting a hold of these items if you don’t have them already:

• A shovel and a small trowel
• A leaf rake
• 1-2 large buckets
• A trash bin to store food in (Rodent control)
• Garden or plastic disposable gloves
• Old clothes and shoes for walking in the coop and cleaning in.
• Fake eggs
• A large tarp (Rain and snow cover, as well as summer shade)
• Bungee cords and zip ties (To anchor the tarp)

IT’S TIME TO PURCHASE CHICKS!
Purchasing chicks is, of course, the most fun part about the process! It’s important to decide what you want from your chickens and be familiar with the breeds that you want. It’s up to you whether you want all the same breed, or 1 of a few different breeds…if eggs is what you want, having a few different breeds is fun because many chickens lay many different colors of eggs. Chickens also come in many different colors and can even have decorative plumage. There are chickens designed for egg laying, chickens designed for processing (meat), and chickens that are dual-purpose.

• Chickens come in Standard and Bantam sizes. Some chickens come “true” Standard, meaning they have no Bantam equal, and some come “true” Bantam with no Standard equal. Standard chickens cannot fly, Bantams can.
• My favorites for eggs are Leghorns (white, large eggs). Some say these hens can be flighty but mine is certainly not. In fact, she is probably my most friendly hen. I think being around other hens that are not Leghorns helps. Rhode Island Reds (brown, large eggs). Rhode Islands are generally even-tempered and docile, although the one I had was kind of a snot…but there are all kinds of generalizations about breed tendencies out there, and I really think each chicken is different. Plymouth Rocks (light brown, large eggs). Plymouth Rocks are the derps of the chicken world, at least all the ones I have met are, but they are sweet and docile and so wonderfully fluffy! Americaunas (green/blue, medium eggs) “Ameris” are sweet, curious and boisterous birds. Mine may be small of stature, but not small of heart. Even as a chick, she earned her name Xena with her fearlessness and wild looking plumage. Red and Black Stars (sex-links) are great layers as well.
• My favorites for dual purpose are Wyandottes (light-brown, large eggs) Wyandottes come in Silver-laced (most common), blue-laced, red-laced, red-laced blue, and brown-laced black. They are sweet, calm and fluffy and their color pattern is quite stunning. Orpingtons (light-brown, large eggs). “Orps” most commonly come in “buff” color and are friendly, docile and easy-going. Cochins (light-brown, large eggs) My Cochin is a Bantam and she lays small, brown eggs. She is boisterous and full of pluck. She has a short fluffy tail and fully feathered feet as well. If you mix a Bantam in with your Standards, just keep a sharp eye out for bullying. Brahmas (light-brown, large eggs). The most common color is “light”, which is white with black laced points. Brahmas also have feathered feet and are friendly, docile and easy to handle.
• Consider keeping 1 or 2 “Fancy” or Ornamental chickens! These include Silkies, Polish Crested, Frizzles, and Sultans. Also, many chickens come in many different rarer colors that can be fun too. These suggestions are just the tip of the iceberg. There are hundreds of breeds of chickens out there.
• DUCKS! Consider adding 1 or 2 ducks to your flock. Ducks are hardy, disease resistant, easy to keep and add such character to the flock! They have a personality and attitude that is all their own, and can co-exist quite happily alongside chickens. Just like chickens, ducks come in many different breeds that are intended for different things. Egg-laying ducks lay just as well or sometimes better than egg-laying chickens. My Indian Runners each lay an egg a day and they are delicious! Domestic ducks cannot fly except for Calls, which are the Bantams of the duck world.
• Hens DO NOT need roosters to lay eggs, in fact roosters are not allowed in city limits so steer clear of them. Most feed stores, including Zamzows will specify whether they sell chicks as “straight-run” or “pullets”. Straight-run means mixed gender, so don’t take the risk. Pullets are 98% female. We only say 98% because sexing chicks is accurate, not precise unless you buy sex-links. These are hybrids of different chicken breeds whose crossings produce different colors in female vs. male chicks. They are often known as Red or Black Stars. Unfortunately, ducks are usually only sold straight-run unless you order them sexed.
• A note on ducks and chickens together: NEVER EVER keep chicken roosters with duck hens, or drakes (male ducks) with chicken hens. Chickens and ducks have different sex organs, but unfortunately fowl males don’t really have preferences when they are kept together. If they choose to cross-mate, severe damage of the hens can result. As soon as sexual maturity is reached (approx. 3 mos.) they must be separated. Hens of both species are fine to co-exist in the same pen, however. Separate housing is encouraged, but runs may be shared.

FEEDING/WATERING
So now you have your babies and you’ve brought them home to their nice, warm brooder…now they need to eat and drink. You should have water and feed ready for them as soon as you get home. There are options for you concerning chick food.

• Medicated Chick Starter is a crumble feed formulated with a booster against a common illness that affects chicks known as Coccidiosis. Coccidiosis is a parasitic protozoan that affects the intestinal tract of animals, but is really only a threat to young, immunocompromised chicks. The bug is passed around to animals via infected feces. As the chick grows, with proper care and gradual exposure, the chicks build up an immunity to the parasite. In my personal opinion, coccidia are more common in areas where many birds or animals have been raised consecutively for a number of years. I raised mine without medicated feed and they did just fine. I try not to throw around medicines unless they are needed. Mother chickens don’t give their babies medicine, so I don’t believe we necessarily need to either, but this decision is highly controversial and entirely yours to make…I can’t tell you what you should do, I can only offer you options and leave the choice to you. Medicated starter is NOT safe for waterfowl however.
• Non-medicated starter is a chick crumble without medication. Chick feed differs from adult feed in that it is higher in protein, and in a smaller, crumbled form that is easy for the chicks to digest. Feed should be available to young chicks constantly.
• Water should always be fresh and kept away from the heat.
• Treats are okay to start giving at about 2-3 weeks. Chickens will eat almost anything but chicks should only be given small amounts that are easy to digest. Bananas, yogurt or small pieces of lettuce are good choices.
• Grit MUST be given as soon as any foods are given other than chick starter. Chickens have crop-type digestive systems. The crop is a small pouch located in the chickens throat that grinds up food before it enters the stomach. Grit consists of small bits of indigestible sand and stone that sit in the crop and help grind the food. They are eventually passed and new grit is taken in, so chickens both young and adult need constant access to it. Chick grit is smaller than adult grit, and both can be purchased in the store. Chickens with plenty of free-range opportunities generally take in enough grit from the dirt that additional grit isn’t needed but heavily confined birds need an extra dish of it available at all times.
• Flock Raiser is recommended if you are planning on keeping chicks and ducklings together. It is even higher in protein than chick starter and recommended for other fowl as well as chicks.
• Outdoor material can be introduced to the chicks at about 2 weeks. I started by tossing a few leaves and pinecones in the brooder for them to mess around with and gradually started introducing dirt clods to them. This helps build the chicks’ immunity, but also entertains them.
• The more you bond with your chicks when they are little, the more friendly they will be when they are grown. Hand-feeding them treats is a good way to get them used to you. Slowly lower your hand into the brooder so you don’t scare them and talk softly to them. It’s okay to hold the chicks in your hands for short periods, but always monitor small children with the chicks. Ducklings imprint very strongly on their “mother” figure. Mine followed me around the house and down the street! Ducklings and chicks both may cry for a time when you leave the room, but don’t worry, they will quiet down.
• Keep an eye out for pasty butt. Pasty butt happens when the chicks poo gets stuck to their feathers and starts to build up. It’s important that you either pick the poo off, or rinse it with some warm water and wipe it off so that the chick can continue to eliminate.

Your chicks are going to be very tired from all the excitement the day you bring them home, so I wouldn’t hold them or pick them up much on the first day, in fact chicks will literally “pass-out” when they are tired so don’t be alarmed to walk over and find your chicks sprawled about the box as if dead…they are only sleeping!
(Take any quick questions about chicks)
ADULTHOOD

• Please feel free to start taking your chicks outside for “field trips” at about 3 weeks as long as daytime temps are about 55-60 degrees. These trips should be supervised, and the chicks should be put in a small contained area of the yard so they don’t wander too far and are protected, preferably in the sun. At about 6-8 weeks, when the chicks are showing most of their first set of adult feathers, it is time to go outside to the coop. Night-time temps need to be over 40 degrees.
• At this point the chicks will still be eating chick feed until their 16-18th week, but they will spend their days in the run and sleep in their coop at night. I let my birds out of their run into the yard for about an hour each day so they can get enough exercise and forage for goodies like grass and roughage as well as bugs. Chickens are excellent bug catchers and go nuts for worms, spiders, earwigs and grubs…my ducks love slugs as well. Chickens do like to scratch and dig, so if you are worried about your lawn, don’t leave them unattended for too long at a time. I have a couple spots in my yard that are designated grass free, and they love scratching under the leaves and taking dust baths.
• Upon reaching adulthood, it is safe to switch your hens over to Layer Pellets. Both laying hens and ducks are safe to eat Layer Pellets. Layer Pellets are high in calcium for proper egg production and come in a small pellet form that is better for adult birds (they tend to start scattering and wasting crumbled feed as they get older). If for whatever reason you will have males in your flock, it is recommended you feed regular adult feed in place of Layer Pellets and instead put out an extra dish of calcium supplements for the hens to take at their leisure. It is widely thought that the extra calcium in Layer Pellets isn’t healthy for male birds.
• Calcium Supplements are sold in the store and comes in the form of crushed Oyster Shells. Egg shells may also be baked in the oven, crushed, and fed back to your chickens. When your chickens first begin to lay, it’s a good idea to put out a dish of extra Oyster Shells to help build up their calcium levels. I stopped using it after I ran out of my first bag, because the Layer Pellets I was feeding had plenty of calcium to keep them going.
• Niacin supplements may be necessary for ducklings. Niacin helps duck legs and feet grow strong. It can be found easily in the supplement section at the store. Buy a bottle of 100 mg No-flush caplets, and simply grind one 100mg caplet per gallon of water. Niacin doesn’t hurt chickens.
• Adult treats can be anything from fruits and vegetables to meat scraps and potato chips. Chickens are omnivorous and eat almost anything. Mine love pizza, yogurt and sour cream, bananas and watermelon, lettuces and cabbage, meat scraps, potato chips, cheese…I even had a chicken catch a mouse and try to eat it….bleagh. Don’t feed raw potatoes, apple cores (seeds), chocolate or too many things that are high in fat and salt…occasional potato chips are okay, but not in excess. Chickens are pretty good at instinctively knowing what is good and bad for them around the yard so don’t worry too much about that, but do check if you have plants that may be poisonous and just keep an eye on them to make sure the chickens don’t bother them. I had Foxglove growing around my old house, but the chickens never bothered it. If you have a vegetable garden, BEWARE. Without proper protection, it will soon turn into a chicken feeding frenzy!
• Once the chickens start living outside, it’ not necessary to provide food and water inside the coop, in fact you will cut down on mess this way. Chickens are fine through the night without food or water. They will put themselves to bed at dusk and wake up at first light. Do be sure food is available up until they go to roost, so they are going to bed satisfied. I feed mine first thing when I get up in the morning around 9 O’clock.
• Chickens will get into flower beds and gardens if allowed to free-range…take measures to protect your plants and vegetables that you don’t want eaten or dug up. In fact, I put mine to work spreading compost in the spring before I plant. I simply dump the compost into my garden beds and the chickens come running to see what I am up to…soon they are happily scratching away and I can break out the lemonade!
• Dust bathing is very important to chickens. They will find a good patch of dirt, scratch it all up to loosen it, then lie down and kick the dirt up under their feathers. This is how they keep parasites away. If your chickens don’t have a good patch of dirt in their run, a dust box can be made and filled with a combination of dirt, sand and wood ashes.
• The earliest most hens begin to lay is around 16-18 weeks. Until this time, it is advised that you block off your nest boxes so the young pullets (female chickens who have not yet laid an egg) do not attempt to sleep (and poop) in the nests. This is a bad habit.
• You may start to realize that one of your hens starts to take on a bossy prominence over the others. You may witness a little fighting or displays of dominance like head pecking or rushing at the food and water. This is perfectly normal and known as the “Pecking Order”. Hens without a rooster are especially reliant on the pecking order to maintain peace in the flock. This will consist of one hen establishing herself as the Alpha. She can pick on all other chickens under her and gets first dibs on food. Then there will likely be an Omega, who can pick on all other chickens except the boss chicken and so on and so forth down to the bottom hen. Please keep a sharp eye out for excessive bullying and isolate any hens that have open wounds as the other chickens may make a habit out of pecking it. Try not to interfere in harmless scuffles. There is typically no bloodshed and it is important for the birds to establish order on their own. As soon as it is settled, the fighting will stop, but it may take more than a few days to figure out. With more than 3 birds, more than one food and watering station is recommended so that everyone gets the chance to eat and drink with minimal confrontation.
• Molting is the process by which chickens shed all or a majority of their feathers and grow new ones. Don’t be alarmed if a hen seems to suddenly drop all her feathers and now she looks miserable and sickly. She is okay. Hens don’t like to be touched at this time and can also be more irritable than normal. Providing them with extra protein treats like dried mealworms and providing extra nutrient powder in their water will help the process go smoother. They may cease to lay during this period, also normal. Chickens tend to molt in the fall each year.
• Hens will put themselves away at dusk, so make sure they are closed up tight and safe before turning in for the night. Ducks don’t sleep through the night, and do not put themselves away in the same way chickens do. It’s your responsibility to make sure they too are put up safe in their house.
• Broody hens. “Broody” is the term given to hens who have decided to hatch and raise chicks. Some breeds are more prone to this than others. True egg layers tend to never go broody. They have been bred not to, but it’s also not unheard of. Obviously eggs won’t hatch without roosters, so if you have a hen that has decided to go broody (a.k.a. sit on her eggs without leaving), you will need to break her of it. I’m not going to get super detailed, because you will have a ways to go before dealing with this issue, but it’s important to be aware of it.

EGGS, EGGS, EGGS

• 16-18 weeks is considered early, 20-22 weeks is normal, and 30 is pretty late although not unheard of!
• A lay cycle takes about 24 hours and chickens need at least 16 hours of daylight to complete a cycle. This is why without light, they will tend to drop off in the winter. They also cease to lay during a molt, when all their extra protein and nutrients are redirected at new feather growth.
• Eggs range in size and color depending on breed. They can be anywhere from deep chocolate brown to blue or green to light brown and speckled to white and range in size from tiny Bantam to AAA large.
• Many first eggs will be misshapen, they may have no shell and are only held together by the inner membrane, or the hen may drop them without a shell or membrane at all. This is all normal while her body adjusts. Some may even be laid with double yolks!
• It is important to check the nests for eggs every morning, and clear any that have broken or were laid without a shell so the hens don’t take to eating them. Egg eating is a difficult habit to break so it is better to prevent it.
• Sometimes eggs can get stuck as the hen is attempting to pass them. This is called egg binding. If a hen spends more time than usual in the nest and she appears all fluffed up and straining, or she is walking around with her rear pulled down and her legs all stiff like a penguin, she may have an egg stuck. Egg binding can be life threatening and there are ways to help her, but for the sake of time, it will be best to allow you to do some research on this issue on your own time or ask me after class.
• It is normal for hens to take a few days off from laying. Just because you don’t get an egg every single day, doesn’t mean there is a problem necessarily.

AILMENTS/INJURIES/MAINTENANCE

• I am not a vet. I am not here to give veterinary advice. While I DO have a certain knowledge of basic afflictions, it is purely meant to help you in identifying what you may be dealing with so you can take what YOU feel are the appropriate steps to healing.
• Frequent inspections of your chickens are the best way of identifying external problems and injuries. Check the feet for abnormal growths or swelling, the face for discoloration, get under their feathers to check their skin for parasites.
• Keeping a clean space is one of the best ways to prevent disease and parasites.
• When integrating new adult birds into your existing flock, there is a certain amount of biosecurity measures you should be taking. Since you probably won’t be dealing with integrations as a beginner, I’m not going to get super detailed, but if you are confronted with this issue, it is important that you quarantine new acquisitions for about 30 days to monitor them.
• If you perceive a member of your existing flock is ill or lethargic, or not eating and drinking it is important to isolate them away from the others not only to keep other birds from getting ill, but to lessen the stress of the afflicted bird.
• Vets that will see chickens DO exist. I have taken a hen to the vet before, and I am happy to report that it was successful. Chickens are very like any other animal and they can get sick and injured. As their keepers, it is our responsibility to look out for them. I’m not going to go into too much detail about specific things, but feel free to ask questions if you have them, after class.
• Chickens don’t like the heat of summer. They must have a space out of the sun to stay cool, and plenty of cool fresh water. The coop must have some ventilation.
• Chickens are extremely cold hardy. I have never had a light or any supplemental heat on mine in the winter and they have done fine. NEVER use an extension cord to run heat to the coop in winter, they just aren’t reliable. Be extremely cautious if you do choose to light or heat your coop that the lamp is well away from any potential fire hazards. It is important that the coop be draft-free in the winter. Extra straw accomplishes this for me, but the coop does still need to be ventilated at the top so moisture can escape. If it is not ventilated, you run the risk of frostbitten combs and wattles. I’m not going to spend a lot of time on winter-proofing but again, if you have further questions, feel free to ask.

Well that is about all I have for you guys today, can I answer a few questions before we wrap up? Thank you so much for coming! I hope you all are as eggcited as I am about raising chickens! The last advice I can give you is to do some supplemental reading and join an online forum about chickens….that helped me A LOT, and there are always nice folks available to answer your questions.

Here it is, I wanted to attach it, but it won't let me. If anyone has a minute to read it, I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[blondiebee181]

Well, I am happy to report chick rearing class was a success! I really impressed my store manager and my audience. I made a separate, more concise handout for everyone and it has been so fun to get my customers excited about chickens!

I do have a question if anyone can chime in....since our chicks' arrival at the store we have had to deal with a few fatalities. We obviously only have them on chick starter and give them water with probiotic chick boost in it. I know fatalities are probably pretty normal, but does anyone know why they sometimes just seem to pass away suddenly? It's hard to watch them every second, so it's hard to say what the cause is, but I am curious to learn more about why they can die so suddenly. I have been really diligent about keeping their little rumps free of poo build-up, so I don't think pasty-butt is the culprit...

 

[PunkinPeep]

Well, I am happy to report chick rearing class was a success! I really impressed my store manager and my audience. I made a separate, more concise handout for everyone and it has been so fun to get my customers excited about chickens!

I do have a question if anyone can chime in....since our chicks' arrival at the store we have had to deal with a few fatalities. We obviously only have them on chick starter and give them water with probiotic chick boost in it. I know fatalities are probably pretty normal, but does anyone know why they sometimes just seem to pass away suddenly? It's hard to watch them every second, so it's hard to say what the cause is, but I am curious to learn more about why they can die so suddenly. I have been really diligent about keeping their little rumps free of poo build-up, so I don't think pasty-butt is the culprit...

Here is one explanation i have heard. I'm still mulling it over in my mind, but i think it might have some value.
We all know that the chick lives on the nutrition from the yolk for the first 3 (some say 5) days of life outside the egg. So a chick may appear to be perfectly healthy, even though something may be wrong with its digestive system etc., which may not manifest as a problem until a chick has been attempting to eat for several days. When it finally gives out, it appears sudden to us, but it may have been a problem that existed immediately. We just couldn't see it.
Something to think about.