Texas

If there is nothing on the top of the run, you have the risk of chickens getting out, as well as predators - dogs, possums, coons, hawks, owls, etc - getting in. 

With the run being only 4 feet tall -  having it covered is going to suck and kill your back when you have to get inside to catch chickens, clean, refill water/food, etc.  And it is not fun to have to catch a chicken and wind up getting covered in chicken poop because you had to crawl on your hands and knees to move around in a short run.  So think about raising the support posts to at least 6 feet tall if you decide to cover the run.

As far as chicken wire vs hardware cloth - that depends on how much you want to spend as well as how the run will be used etc.  

A predator can reach inside chicken wire and pull a chicken's body parts off.  And small chicks can still get their heads through the holes of chicken wire - so if you're going to have small chicks next to a dog pen - hardware cloth would be better at chick height.  If your chickens are going to be put up at night and locked in a coop, then putting up chicken wire in the run may be fine, and then you can line the windows of the coop with hardware cloth for predator protection. 

We have very large chicken tractors that we drag around the pasture.  The runs are wire fencing with holes that are about 2 inch x 3 inches.  The tops of the runs are covered with this wire also and shade cloth is placed on top of that with tarps on top during winter.  Then we run 3 foot tall chicken wire along the bottom, inside the welded fence wire - that's to keep chicken parts inside.  The attached coops can be locked and the vents and windows of the coop are covered with hardware cloth.  Because we have ventilation under the roof, there is hardware cloth covering the roof, underneath the roofing panels, to keep a climbing predator from trying to get in under the eaves of the coop.  We also have some open air pens that also have the welded wire/chicken wire combo on them and plywood shelter on one end that is 4 ft deep so a predator isn't easily able to reach in and grab a chicken that is in the "apartment" area. 

It's all about what your predator threat is, what your budget is, and what your coop/run design is and how it is working for you.


I'm set on 6 ft hardware cloth sections with the hardware cloth on top after reading your reply. Now just have to get the hubby busy! Thanks!
 
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Quote: Starfire and OrumPoultry are correct about the differences between hatchery/breeders. For people that just want backyard laying hens/pets, hatchery/feed store chickens are usually fine. Most people can't tell the difference between a hatchery bird and a standard bred bird from a reputable breeder unless the birds are side by side and then they can see some of the differences. But most people only see the color of the feathers until their eye gets trained to all the other characteristics of the breed.

I know people that only want chickens for backyard pets and eggs, but because they feel strongly about where they get birds from, they will pay the extra money that it usually costs to get chickens from a breeder. Others just want something that is easily replaced if they were to die - and they are happy with hatchery/feed store/backyard breeder chickens. I have some friends that breed "pretty chickens", but they don't breed to the SOP, but they still have a lot of people that want their pretty colored chickens.

It really depends on what you're looking for, what your goals are for your flock. So far, I've only sold chickens that did not make the cut for my breeding program, but the buyer was looking for "nice looking birds" and so it didn't matter that the birds weren't "show quality". Having decent looking Javas was what she wanted, she wasn't planning on breeding or showing, so it was a win-win for both of us.

And that is another thing - even if a person buys from someone that breeds "show birds" - that does NOT mean the chickens you buy are "show quality". For one, if there isn't a lot of competition in a show, a poor specimen can still win first place. And you cannot buy hatching eggs, chicks, or juveniles and have them "show quality" chickens. Chicken genetics is complicated and in order to buy show quality birds, the birds have to be pretty much mature - which is usually at least a year old - to see how everything comes together and how closely they match the ideal bird described in the Standard of Perfection (SOP). When you buy anything but a mature bird - you may or may not end up with show quality specimens by the time they are grown. They may be pretty colored, but there is a difference between a pretty chicken, and a chicken that meets most of the criteria for the SOP for their breed.

If you decide what your goals are for your flock, that will help you decide where you will want to go for obtaining your chickens.
 
No problem. they are good starter birds. once you get the hang of it all, then you can get quality stock. but i figure why risk mistakes with expensive birds? i plan on letting mine mix breed, as long as they are dual purpose for meat (extra roosters I hatch) and eggs. I most likely will get a few quality birds later to increase size or egg production in my flock, but for now I am content with hatchery birds.

I started with feed store (from Ideal) hatchery birds and I'm very happy so far. I researched and considered buying from breeders, but figured I should start slow and not invest too much on the front end.
 
I started with feed store (from Ideal) hatchery birds and I'm very happy so far. I researched and considered buying from breeders, but figured I should start slow and not invest too much on the front end.

As stated, my flock is for egg and meat production. I do not plan on going to bird shows or any of that kind of stuff. They are to be a renewable food source, a source of compost for my garden, and all natural insect repellant. That is my goal with my flock. I may get some quality birds to improve my stock in future.
 
I have about 10 Roos that I would like to give someone to process. I don't eat chicken on the bone, and don't process my own. So not sure if anyone is interested ? I would even give ones to someone looking for flock roosters? I just don't want to give them to random people on craigslist. BYC random people make it easier lol (and incase anyone is interested, they are EEs. Both smooth and frizzled).
 
I have about 10 Roos that I would like to give someone to process. I don't eat chicken on the bone, and don't process my own. So not sure if anyone is interested ? I would even give ones to someone looking for flock roosters? I just don't want to give them to random people on craigslist. BYC random people make it easier lol (and incase anyone is interested, they are EEs. Both smooth and frizzled).
Where are you located? and what age are the Roos?
 
Just north of you, new Braunfels. I have a few that are 6 weeks, and a few that are 3 weeks. So you wouldn't have to feed them but for another 2 months or so? I don't even know the right age for processing? Now, rabbits and cattle, different story.


Depending on size I sluaghter bewteen 3 to 5 months of age. And right now I have no room to take in more Roos that will need to be fattened up. If you still have some in another 2 months I can come and get them then. My 2nd coop will be finished by then and I will be off restriction from my hubby.
 

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