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The amount of food I should feed my chicks.

Saved, Bookmarked, and Favorited, thank you.

I've some acres, which helps, and have a black soldier fly composter set up (mixed results) in the area of the main house and run - but its of no benefit to my "littles" in the grow out pen. Thanks again.
And and to address the two different wheat situation: they have two different nutritional profiles. Durum wheat is much higher in protein (hence why it is better suited to breads and pastas) while soft wheat is lower in protein and better suited to soft delicate pastries and biscuits.

Which brings me to a related point, all grains will vary in protein, fat, and other nutrition based on where they were grown and the soil quality, which is why most feeds will say a "minimum" protein/fat/etc. This is because there will always be a range in the feed you buy and to be super accurate they'd have to test each batch of feed.
 
My wife bakes, I knew the protein differences, which is why I inquired of the use of both, since prices (I thought) were similar. We keep several varieties of each on hand - I make pasta.

Looking at your calculator, my first thought was that you had left various dried beans out - an obvious source of high protein/lb - but a quick perusal of the Internet reveals that lectin in the dried beans is a real dietary nightmare in any significant quantity for all livestock I've quickly checked. Glad I looked, and sharing this rather than privately pulling my foot out of my mouth, for the benefit of newbies like me who might have the same thought... More reading to do, but it looks like the tiny cost savings, given the low allowed substitution rate of dried green bean for corn, makes it not worth the hassle.
 
My wife bakes, I knew the protein differences, which is why I inquired of the use of both, since prices (I thought) were similar. We keep several varieties of each on hand - I make pasta.

Looking at your calculator, my first thought was that you had left various dried beans out - an obvious source of high protein/lb - but a quick perusal of the Internet reveals that lectin in the dried beans is a real dietary nightmare in any significant quantity for all livestock I've quickly checked. Glad I looked, and sharing this rather than privately pulling my foot out of my mouth, for the benefit of newbies like me who might have the same thought... More reading to do, but it looks like the tiny cost savings, given the low allowed substitution rate of dried green bean for corn, makes it not worth the hassle.
I am revamping the calculator to include notes tha amaranth and quinoa can't be fed raw, too. Also adding a column for lysine and fat, and updating numbers for other ingredients. Yes, beans are no bueno for birds, but field peas, soybeans, lentils, mealworms, brewer's yeast, amaranth, and quiona can all be used to amp up protein. Durum wheat is almost neutral in influencing protein.

You can add stuff the calculator too. For example, dried amaranth leaves are great for birds, can be added up to 5% of their feed, and are 23% protein. Dried sweet potato and potatoes, apples, beet greens, and numerous grain by-products (which I don't use, personally) can be added as well!
 
No Chick Starter in stock again, and no time to do a shop based on your calculator and locally sourced ingredients. Grabbed some "Feather Fixer" from Nutrena as a substitute a 18% protein, 4% fat. Everything else on the shelf was 15/16% and 2.5%, respectively. Thankfully, at 5 weeks, my birds wont choke on the pellets, and there is no shortage of grit - the floor is straw over recycled concrete base and they scratch like mad men and women.
 
No Chick Starter in stock again, and no time to do a shop based on your calculator and locally sourced ingredients. Grabbed some "Feather Fixer" from Nutrena as a substitute a 18% protein, 4% fat. Everything else on the shelf was 15/16% and 2.5%, respectively. Thankfully, at 5 weeks, my birds wont choke on the pellets, and there is no shortage of grit - the floor is straw over recycled concrete base and they scratch like mad men and women.

I think feather fixer would be just fine. I hope the feed situation improves. It’s a little unnerving.
 
Hello guys! I finally got the "chick starter food" should I keep it in their brooder for 24 hours? Also do they need to be fed other stuff or the "chick starter" is enough for them? Can they control the amount of food they eat?
 
Aw, well, I am happy to help where I can. Chickens are such a joy! I know very little about Oman, but I spoke with someone from Pakistan on here who had a difficult time finding feed for his chickens. If you are unable to find any chick feed, and if you would like, I could help make a recipe for chick feed? It's not the same as buying proper chick feed, but it can be much better than the bird seed you've had to use. Can you tell me if any of these grains are available near you and tell me which ones are too expensive for you to buy:

Amaranth
Barley
Brown rice
Buckwheat
Corn
Flaxseed
Lentils
Millet
Oats
Peas
Quinoa
Rye
Sorghum
Soybeans
Sunflower seeds
Durum wheat (wheat that is grown in the fall and harvested in the spring)
Spring wheat (wheat that is grown in the spring and harvested in the fall)
Hello guys! I finally got the "chick starter food" should I keep it in their brooder for 24 hours? Also do they need to be fed other stuff or the "chick starter" is enough for them? Can they control the amount of food they eat?
 
Vegetables, grains, and rice, all take away form the optimally designed nutrition of commercial available chick starter.

you are feeding them the equivalent of pop tarts.

this type of behavior has no place on a message board as informative as this one.
Hello guys! I finally got the "chick starter food" should I keep it in their brooder for 24 hours? Also do they need to be fed other stuff or the "chick starter" is enough for them? Can they control the amount of food they eat?
 
For 3 week olds I would only give them the starter, if they are outside for periods they will find other stuff then. I always free feed, keep feed there all the time so that they can take what they need when they need it. The needs can vary bird to bird, and day to day, so it's better if it's always there, along with plenty of fresh, clean water.
 

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