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The Legbar Thread!

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x2! Congratulations!!!
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I took some pictures of my second generation of Rees Legbars. My goal with this generation was to improve body type. As a reference, this first photo is an example of a first generation male:




And a first generation female:





As you can see, their tail angles were higher than I'd like and their backs were shorter than I'd like. So, I had two breeding pens. One male with better type over females with better color and a male with better color over females with better type. Here are some examples of generation two:



 
I took some pictures of my second generation of Rees Legbars. My goal with this generation was to improve body type. As a reference, this first photo is an example of a first generation male:




And a first generation female:





As you can see, their tail angles were higher than I'd like and their backs were shorter than I'd like. So, I had two breeding pens. One male with better type over females with better color and a male with better color over females with better type. Here are some examples of generation two:



Very nice! Those are two things that my flock needs imporvement on -- tail angle and length of back. You did go a long way already --- well done!
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How far are you from Roanoke, VA? I have on order four Bielefelders and she also has CLs. Look for her on Craigslist, Roanoke, and put in Cream Legbars or Bielefelders. Good luck!
 
I wanted to follow up on the issue that I was having where I always hatched out far more cockerels than pullets (as in twice as many cockerels). The thinking I had was that my incubation temperature might be killing off the girls...but maybe the strain I has was a little boy-heavy (some breeds are reported to be 60/40 instead of 50/50). Anyhow, I use an older 1200 series GQF that has an electronic thermostat with a wafer thermostat as backup. It seemed like the temperature had a tendency to creep down and every few days and would need a slight adjustment. I started using a really old GQF incubator with a broken turner as my hatcher. It uses a wafer as the main and another wafer as backup. The temperature seemed spot-on all the time. So...I adjusted my main incubator so the wafer controls the temperature with the electronic thermostat as backup and suddenly started hatching out far more females (like twice as many). So...PROBLEM SOLVED!
 
I wanted to follow up on the issue that I was having where I always hatched out far more cockerels than pullets (as in twice as many cockerels). The thinking I had was that my incubation temperature might be killing off the girls...but maybe the strain I has was a little boy-heavy (some breeds are reported to be 60/40 instead of 50/50). Anyhow, I use an older 1200 series GQF that has an electronic thermostat with a wafer thermostat as backup. It seemed like the temperature had a tendency to creep down and every few days and would need a slight adjustment. I started using a really old GQF incubator with a broken turner as my hatcher. It uses a wafer as the main and another wafer as backup. The temperature seemed spot-on all the time. So...I adjusted my main incubator so the wafer controls the temperature with the electronic thermostat as backup and suddenly started hatching out far more females (like twice as many). So...PROBLEM SOLVED!
So now you need to tell us all the ideal temp for more girls!!! :O)

One hen I have gives me 2-to-1 females to males -- and the rest are pretty much 50/50.
 
Okay, folks, this is going to sound like a really stupid question, but here goes anyhow! Has anyone ever hatched Biels chicks under the hen or do the hens just not go broody? Anyone hatch Biels eggs under a Silkie? Or does one have to use an incubator to have any hope of youngsters??? Thanks!
 
Since I sell most of my breeds "straight run" I actually try for 99.5F. I really don't know if I'm off by half a degree or if there is a half degree temperature range in various parts of the incubator. Not to mention the effects of humidity...which I'm really not 100% certain about but the chicks seem to pip at a good spot to indicate about the right loss of moisture. I read an interesting bit of information where they tested temperature and humidity combinations and it seems that a "feels like" combination of temperature and humidity really had more of an effect. I "think" I remember it as "100F/50%, 99.5/60%, and 98F/70% all hatched at the same time". I'd have to look it up to be certain but it was something like that.
 
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I know of a lady who put some two duck eggs under a silkie. One hatched out. The problem was that the silkie would go spastic when her sweet little baby would go in the pond for a swim. She would run around the pond bank raising all kinds of noise trying to help her baby out.

I do understand what you are asking as of how many Biels chicks could survive to where they dont need heat using a silkie hen.
 

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