The Natural Chicken Keeping thread - OTs welcome!

This thread moves too quick, lol! I forgot what I was going to say to someone who asked... Have to re-read... So many pages ago!

Quote: Reckon a presser would decrease the amount of garlic you'd need to feed since it's all getting 'activated' when the whole lot's crushed. Just a theory, though, and there are other compounds which are active either way, even when dried or pickled or cooked, which are less well known but still present.

Quote: Garlic also works to get rid of internal and external parasites due to its high sulfur levels. If they're kept with garlic in their diets the lice and mites and worms can't stomach it. Since it takes a while to build up in their tissues and bloodstream the results are not overnight. But once it's part of their staple diet they are effectively immune.

Regarding pine tar, someone put up a photo asking if that was the brand I use. No, it's a different one I use, not sure of the brand as they put it into unbranded smaller bottles for resale; now I'm wondering how many different ways you can make pine tar and what the different effects might be, because some people aren't recording the results I am. I don't use the diluted stuff or anything with additives.
 
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Does anyone know what kind of lime is supposed to be used in the white wash recipe? Hydrated lime? Barn lime? I know the difference between garden lime and hydrated lime, but I'm still confused about other kinds.

Oh, and if you use hydrated lime can the chickens go right into the coop after it's dried? I don't have mites or anything, but I was thinking about white washing my coop both for prevention and to brighten it up a little. I mean, I know white wash isn't exactly pretty, but it will at least be whitish instead of dark wood.
 
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...okay, I know I've been posting a lot today. I'm procrastinating going outside because it's cold.

But I just thought of another question. My new kitties are living in our shed (it's perfect- they can get in and out from the gap under the door, but the dogs can't get in and get them). It's big, 20x20, and has a dirt floor. They're still really little, so they've been doing most of their eliminating in the shed on the dirt floor. I am working on getting this shed cleaned up and nice (er)- even before the kitties it smelled like dampness and mouse pee with a hint of dead rodent. I am thinking about white washing it as well, or at least painting it with cheap white paint, and then putting shavings in over the dirt. Other than the cats and my chick brooder no animals live in there (yet), but I figure the shavings will help neutralize some of all the smells I've cited. And I need to work on the damp part- rain runs INTO the shed because of the slope, and we know we need to fix that (we're just arguing about how- of course my husband wants to rent a large piece of equipment to do it) to take care of the damp and before we can put in any shavings or anything. But would something like lime neutralize the odor? Or could I dust the floor with baking soda? Any other ideas? Hopefully as the kitties get older they'll do more of their business outside, but I would imagine they'll resume using the shed in the winter because it will be the only available dirt.
 
Does anyone know what kind of lime is supposed to be used in the white wash recipe? Hydrated lime? Barn lime? I know the difference between garden lime and hydrated lime, but I'm still confused about other kinds.

Oh, and if you use hydrated lime can the chickens go right into the coop after it's dried? I don't have mites or anything, but I was thinking about white washing my coop both for prevention and to brighten it up a little. I mean, I know white wash isn't exactly pretty, but it will at least be whitish instead of dark wood.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...keeping-thread-ots-welcome/1800#post_10160376
pOST 1805

it says barn lime.....
 
sour dough

  • Select a container that your "pet" will live in. A wide-mouthed glass jar is best, ask the plastic hater and she will concure. I use a glass jar with a rubber seal; you can find these for $2-$4 in any antique or junk shop or even at rummage sales. A small crock with a loose lid is also great; these can be bought in cheap sets for serving soup. You can also use a rubbermaid or tupperware container
    hide.gif
    (Don't tell). A wide-mouthed mayonnaise or pickle jar will also do just fine. Metallic containers are a bad idea; some of them are reactive and can ruin your starter and avoid sturing with metal spoons too.
  • Blend a cup of warm water and a cup of flour, and pour it into the jar. That's the whole recipe! I use plain, organic bread flour most of the time, but I've had good results with all-purpose and whole-wheat flour, too. If you want, you can add yeast to a starter to "boost" it. If you do this, sourdough snobs will look down their nose at you - do you care about snobs? I personally find that (at least here where I live) no yeast "boost" is necessary, and I can make "real" sourdough with no trouble. I live in a humid climate and as long as it is nott by my FF it is great! But if you are having trouble, go ahead! I won't tell. I have cheated in the past when I had to throw out my starter.
  • Every 24 Hours, Feed the Starter. You should keep the starter in a warm place; 70-80 degrees. This allows the yeast already present in the flour (and in the air) to grow rapidly. Mine takes a bit longer because my house is colder. Hotter homes might kill it. They do not like 100 degrees. You can take comfort from the fact that almost nothing else will do so. The way you feed the starter is to (A) throw away half of it and then (B) add a half-cup of flour and a half-cup of water. Do this every 24 hours. Within three or four days (it can take longer, a week or more, and it can happen more quickly) you should start getting lots of bubbles, and a pleasant sour or beery smell. The starter may start to puff up, too. This is good. Here's the gist: When your starter develops a bubbly froth, it is done.
  • Refrigerate the Starter. Keep the starter in your fridge, with a lid on it. Allow a little breathing space in the lid. If you're using a mayo or pickle jar, punch a hole in the lid with a nail, that kind of thing. Once the starter is chilled, it needs to be fed only once a week. Realistically, you can get away with less; it's important to remember that your starter is a colony of life-forms that are almost impossible to kill (except with extreme heat). Even starving them is difficult.


Hootch( the liquid that sets on top) It smells like beer but don't drink it.

You can stir in the liquid if it starts to dry out or pour it off if it is wet enough.
 
...okay, I know I've been posting a lot today. I'm procrastinating going outside because it's cold.

But I just thought of another question. My new kitties are living in our shed (it's perfect- they can get in and out from the gap under the door, but the dogs can't get in and get them). It's big, 20x20, and has a dirt floor. They're still really little, so they've been doing most of their eliminating in the shed on the dirt floor. I am working on getting this shed cleaned up and nice (er)- even before the kitties it smelled like dampness and mouse pee with a hint of dead rodent. I am thinking about white washing it as well, or at least painting it with cheap white paint, and then putting shavings in over the dirt. Other than the cats and my chick brooder no animals live in there (yet), but I figure the shavings will help neutralize some of all the smells I've cited. And I need to work on the damp part- rain runs INTO the shed because of the slope, and we know we need to fix that (we're just arguing about how- of course my husband wants to rent a large piece of equipment to do it) to take care of the damp and before we can put in any shavings or anything. But would something like lime neutralize the odor? Or could I dust the floor with baking soda? Any other ideas? Hopefully as the kitties get older they'll do more of their business outside, but I would imagine they'll resume using the shed in the winter because it will be the only available dirt.

barn lime is great when is come to odor control, I've found that a thin layer of sand does that too, DE ( the cheap stuff from tractor supply ) also helps with smell, but It's sooooooooo dusty, so not the best if you can't leave it to settle for a day. Baking soda will work, but depending on how large the shed is, that could get pretty expensive, Oh, and I would defiantly recommend Kilz, when you paint, it's white, a sealer, water proof, and makes it sooooo easy to clean.
 
barn lime is great when is come to odor control, I've found that a thin layer of sand does that too, DE ( the cheap stuff from tractor supply ) also helps with smell, but It's sooooooooo dusty, so not the best if you can't leave it to settle for a day. Baking soda will work, but depending on how large the shed is, that could get pretty expensive, Oh, and I would defiantly recommend Kilz, when you paint, it's white, a sealer, water proof, and makes it sooooo easy to clean.
Just curious. I'm sealing surfaces (bathroom floor, etc) and I bought Kilz but I bought oil based thinking it would seal better than the acrylic. Any thoughts?
As I'm ready to white wash this week end, I'm not painting first aswhitewash can be a thick sort of sealant. I remember when my grand dad would have his barn white washed, If everything wasn't spotless, I can remember white washed cob webs. It was sprayed then and we need o paint a think heavy coat. I think we are talking about white washing and painting 2 different areas but if I were to use Kilz, I probably wouldn't white wash.
 
Just curious. I'm sealing surfaces (bathroom floor, etc) and I bought Kilz but I bought oil based thinking it would seal better than the acrylic. Any thoughts?
As I'm ready to white wash this week end, I'm not painting first aswhitewash can be a thick sort of sealant. I remember when my grand dad would have his barn white washed, If everything wasn't spotless, I can remember white washed cob webs. It was sprayed then and we need o paint a think heavy coat. I think we are talking about white washing and painting 2 different areas but if I were to use Kilz, I probably wouldn't white wash.

Mine is water based, and has withstood a lot, but is showing wear and tear since I have to scrub my coops often, the oil based would probably be better since it wouldn't get washed away as easily ( ever tried to remove dried oil based paint on base boards? NOT easy )
 
sour dough

  • Select a container that your "pet" will live in. A wide-mouthed glass jar is best, ask the plastic hater and she will concure. I use a glass jar with a rubber seal; you can find these for $2-$4 in any antique or junk shop or even at rummage sales. A small crock with a loose lid is also great; these can be bought in cheap sets for serving soup. You can also use a rubbermaid or tupperware container
    hide.gif
    (Don't tell). A wide-mouthed mayonnaise or pickle jar will also do just fine. Metallic containers are a bad idea; some of them are reactive and can ruin your starter and avoid sturing with metal spoons too.
  • Blend a cup of warm water and a cup of flour, and pour it into the jar. That's the whole recipe! I use plain, organic bread flour most of the time, but I've had good results with all-purpose and whole-wheat flour, too. If you want, you can add yeast to a starter to "boost" it. If you do this, sourdough snobs will look down their nose at you - do you care about snobs? I personally find that (at least here where I live) no yeast "boost" is necessary, and I can make "real" sourdough with no trouble. I live in a humid climate and as long as it is nott by my FF it is great! But if you are having trouble, go ahead! I won't tell. I have cheated in the past when I had to throw out my starter.
  • Every 24 Hours, Feed the Starter. You should keep the starter in a warm place; 70-80 degrees. This allows the yeast already present in the flour (and in the air) to grow rapidly. Mine takes a bit longer because my house is colder. Hotter homes might kill it. They do not like 100 degrees. You can take comfort from the fact that almost nothing else will do so. The way you feed the starter is to (A) throw away half of it and then (B) add a half-cup of flour and a half-cup of water. Do this every 24 hours. Within three or four days (it can take longer, a week or more, and it can happen more quickly) you should start getting lots of bubbles, and a pleasant sour or beery smell. The starter may start to puff up, too. This is good. Here's the gist: When your starter develops a bubbly froth, it is done.
  • Refrigerate the Starter. Keep the starter in your fridge, with a lid on it. Allow a little breathing space in the lid. If you're using a mayo or pickle jar, punch a hole in the lid with a nail, that kind of thing. Once the starter is chilled, it needs to be fed only once a week. Realistically, you can get away with less; it's important to remember that your starter is a colony of life-forms that are almost impossible to kill (except with extreme heat). Even starving them is difficult.


Hootch( the liquid that sets on top) It smells like beer but don't drink it.

You can stir in the liquid if it starts to dry out or pour it off if it is wet enough.

thanks.
 

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