Oh that is cool! She is my chicken keeping idol. I even emailed her to tell her how much I like her books and she sent me duck eggs daily for free. I think my natural chicken keeping is as hardcore as I can make it.
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Oh that is cool! She is my chicken keeping idol. I even emailed her to tell her how much I like her books and she sent me duck eggs daily for free. I think my natural chicken keeping is as hardcore as I can make it.
If I were you, I'd cull them as soon as possible. If you're planning to process them for meat, do it as early as possible in the day, while it's still cool outside to avoid issues with flies and yellow jackets. I'd cull the 2 problem birds, and let the 3rd continue to lay. Right now, she's productive. Why remove a productive bird from the flock? You can cull her before winter, when she'll most likely stop laying. Financially, you don't want to carry an old bird through the winter... unless she's genetically superior, and you want one last season to hatch out some of her chicks. The older a hen is, the less likely that her eggs will be good quality for hatching.Another question, this one regarding culling chickens. I have 5 hens, in my suburban yard. 3 of them are now 4 years old (the other 2 are just coming into their first lay). We can't have any more hens because of by-law/room factors. Of the 4 year olds, one is an internal layer and hasn't laid in over a year, one is now laying paper thin eggs a few times a week (even with optional ground egg shells) and one is laying fine. Should we cull all 3 because of their age/laying status, or cull the two who aren't laying well and keep the third, even though she's old too? Also, if we go ahead with the culling, is there an ideal time of year to do it? Should we give them a last summer fling or cull them now to make room for new pullets?? It's such a hard decision to make an I can't find a definitive answer anywhere! :/
Your call. Can you straighten the toes, and get the foot flat without causing pain to the bird? How straight can you get the foot/toes? Be sure the bedding is deep enough in the brooder. If you want to try to fix the problem, you can do progressive splinting. Start by making a shoe for the feet, getting them as straight as you reasonably can. You might need to put a bit of padding at the pad to take up the space there since your first splinting most likely won't get the foot completely flat. In a few days, remove it, and re-splint with the goal of getting the foot flatter. When you achieve good alignment, I'd leave the splinting for a week, then assess for a day or two to see if you need to continue. It's a lot of work, best done right after hatch. Depends on your goal for raising chicks. Are they livestock or are they pets? How much space do they have? Size of brooder in square feet? How many chicks? Ideally, they should have 2 s.f./bird after 3 weeks. (Increase to 4 s.f./bird as they get bigger)I need a little help. I have 3 week old chicks in the brooder. Everyone has been fine, then I spotted this one tonight. He's walking on the tops of his feet. I have another starting to do the same thing. 2 things were done differently. I use sand in the brooder with puppy pads over it until they start shredding them, then just sand. I had to remove most of the sand last night due to mold (that's unusual, but has happened before). So the puppy pads have nothing under them. The other thing, I ran out of game bird starter (poults in the brooder with chicks so I always use game bird) so today I fed broiler grower. They are back on game bird now. Any ideas on what could be causing it? Can it be reversed or should I cull the 2 now? TIA.
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@gevshiba
Usually when there are foot/leg issues it is a B vitamin issue. Specifically B1 and B2. You can try the following:
Natural Route:
Raw liver from a grass-fed clean source. Chop up in very tiny pieces and feed.
Brewers yeast. You can free-feed. They love it. Be sure there is plenty of water available.
Quick "Synthetic" Route:
-Liquid vitamins Can be fed directly or in water. Can use regular NO ADDED IRON Poly-vi-Sol baby vitamins usually available at any store that has baby items/vitamins. Or Poultry Nutridrench - can usually be found at local farm store (TSC etc.)
[If you are feeding medicated feed stop. It is a thiamin blocker and can cause this issue.]
Mine haven't had an issue been using 3*1 dry for fermenting and adding in a clove of garlic, plus they get table scrap of vegetables , when garden is up they sure love their squash, snap peas and watermelon lol and free ranging so they don't even hardly eat the laying feed except for spring, during the winter just give them start n grow non medicated or flock raiser as can't keep the FF thawed as more important they have water, and they still get table scapsNormally, I have liver in the house because of the dogs, but we are having a problem with too high iron from our well water, so no liver for now. I don't feed medicated feed. As much as I didn't want to, I gave vitamins in the water. I'll need to cull one and maybe 2.
I talked to the guy at the feed store about this and my poults having a vit A deficency. He said he's been hearing about and seeing this with the non GMO and organic feeds. Mostly the soy free ones. I've been asking for 2-3 years for a different feed. There's no place around but them for organic Shipping is too high for me to order myself. I'm not sure what I want to do. Maybe I need to come up with my own supplement mix to accompany my feed. Hopefully, soon, several of my birds will move to where they can free range. The chicks and poults with the broody hens are already there and haven't had any problems.