The Sussex thread!

I have had chickens for 4 years, some of my girls are getting older and I am ready to add to the flock next spring. I have fallen in love with Speckled Sussex (actually love the light also, but since we free range I am afraid they would be too easy a target)and would love to find a breeder close to me, or someone who ships eggs. I have learned my lessons on purchasing eggs from large production hatcheries as well as making hasty decisions on purchasing eggs. (I have some unusual looking Marans
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I have a small flock 12 hens and 1 crazy bantam rooster (pretty sure he hates me). I am looking forward to absorbing all I can over the winter and be ready this spring.
 
I have had chickens for 4 years, some of my girls are getting older and I am ready to add to the flock next spring.  I have fallen in love with Speckled Sussex (actually love the light also, but since we free range I am afraid they would be too easy a target)and would love to find a breeder close to me, or someone who ships eggs.  I have learned my lessons on purchasing eggs from large production hatcheries as well as making hasty decisions on purchasing eggs. (I have some unusual looking Marans :) )

I have a small flock 12 hens and 1 crazy bantam rooster (pretty sure he hates me).  I am looking forward to absorbing all I can over the winter and be ready this spring.

 


Walt Reichert, I believe of Kentucky, would be the man to go to. He sells eggs in the spring but if he has a good hatch, he sells started birds too. If interested in his e-mail address, pm me.
 
Some of my Sussex ~

( Click on the pic to see a larger image )

My birdie block...back away!! Stinkeye



Close up



Anymore treats momma?



Roaming about



A couple other Sussex 'gals hanging out with one of the Basques


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My biggest, and fluffiest Coronation girl. Isn't she lovely?




Enjoy

~ Aspen

Note: My girls are all molting and therefore on strike, so none of my LF breeding pens are together. Everyone is housed together right now.
 
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I recently had to rehome this pullet, due to her split wing. I didn't notice until recently that she had it. Her and a young cockerel went to their new home Saturday afternoon. The pullet will make a fine egg layer, and eye candy! : ) I only have 10 Sussex now (both Coronation and Light). I had 20 something several months ago, I culled way down and just kept the ones that had the best markings.




~ Aspen
 
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Mr Heinz wrote:

Walt Reichert, I believe of Kentucky, would be the man to go to. He sells eggs in the spring but if he has a good hatch, he sells started birds too. If interested in his e-mail address, pm me.
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He's right. Walt is the go-to guy in KY. In Speckled, because they are a tri-colored variety, you want started birds. Yeah, I know it's fun to hatch eggs and raise chicks, but not for your foundation stock. Get started birds your breeder has culled at least once(bare minimum) , preferably twice for quality. That would be about 12 weeks old. Have fun hatching eggs the next season from your foundation flock.You won't lose any time in your breeding program, will assure yourself of better birds because they were chosen by the breeder, and will have birds which get the best possible start because they were raised by the breeder who " knows" his strain. You pay more, but get more. Well worth it.
Best Success,
Karen in western PA.
 
http://tinyurl.com/yaa5zlx
(Karen: Mr. Falkenstein is the gentleman responsible for promoting the Speckled Sussex to acceptance.
A giant in the breed. ) http://tinyurl.com/yaa5zlx



The Proper Color of Speckled Sussex.

An article written by Mr. A. J. Falkenstein, the leading English breeder of
Speckled Sussex, read at the annual meeting of "The Sussex Club of America" at
Cleveland, Ohio, January 10th, 1917. To my Brother Fanciers of the Sussex
Club of U. S. A.:
By request of our esteemed president I send you a few notes on the color of
Speckleds. I have bred this color now for some fourteen years and therefore 1
presume to know a little about it. These notes, however, simply represent my own
ideas and are written with only one motive and that is to try and induce you all
to breed for the rich, dark mahogany ground color. It is only a very few years
since this rich color was first seen and I believe I am right in saying that Mr.
Williams' cock, Lord Roberts, was the first bird of this color to be exported to
the States. I have for years been trying without any cross to breed this
particular color and he was the first good bird I produced. I hope you do not
think that this color is common in England. Far from it, and I do not know of
any fancier outside my own yards who has bred this color. The reason for this is
that I have not sold any of this strain in England until this year when I have
sold several.
The breeding of these birds was simply done by every year breeding from the
darkest and clearest pullets and the darkest topped cockerels. Years ago the
craze was for plenty of marking on breast, the three colors showing distinct,
right up to the throat. The shade of ground color (brown) was never defined and
so long as they were showy they won. These birds were all very light in ground
color, practically yellow, with very light yellow top color and with plenty of
ticking on neck and saddle hackles. They were, however, of good size and good
type. Until fairly recently this color continued with occasionally a darker one
or two being bred and fanciers here began to see that there was greater beauty
in the darker ones and now among speckled fanciers I constantly hear the
remarks, too light, or not dark enough. The light colored birds are easy to
breed, as there is only size and type to breed for, the light color comes
without any effort from the breeder. In breeding light colored birds there is
nothing to breed for and if a color is worth having it should be difficult to
attain.
My idea of a Speckled cockerel's color is that his neck, back, wing bows and
saddle should be all the same shade of rich dark brown with a metallic lustre
all over when the sun is on them. The neck and saddle hackles to be striped with
black and a white tip on each feather. In breeding these dark birds I find the
ticking does not always come so distinct or pronounced as on the lighter birds,
but I think this is only a question of time, but even without ticking, to my
idea, they are far more preferable than a light bird with proper ticking. In
fact, given the choice, I would take one real good dark one without ticking
than^fifty light colored ones with ticking. I, and no doubt many of you, know
who have been trying to breed dark ones, how difficult it is to get them and how
easy it is to breed the light ones. To show that it is always the rule for dark
ones to come without ticking, I have a cockerel which I bred this season, darker
on top than Lord Roberts and with a beautiful ticked neck and saddle hackles. I
sent some feathers from this-bird to Mr. Williams and I expect he will show them
to you. But I was giving you my idea of a Speckled cockerel's color. I myself
prefer a colored tail, mixed black and white with black sickle feather with
white tips and also mixed flight feathers in wings, black, brown and white. I
think it not so sombre looking as black tails and dark flights. It shows up a
bird and is much more handsome to my idea. The color of breast I like is a rich
dark brown and as near the color of top as possible. This should extend from
throat to vent, all the same shade, with of course the black bar and white tip
to each feather. I have sometimes bred cockerels with dark tops and a lighter
shade of brown on breast, but I do not like this and think it ought not to be.
It seems to me to make it a common bird at once. We cannot all think the same
and of course here will always be a diversity of opinion, but I feel absolutely
certain that in breeding the rich dark brown birds, we are on the right track.
I would like to ask you all one question, especially those who have imported
Speckles, and that is this. How many of these rich colored brown birds have you
bred and how many have you had sent from England? (Mr. Williams will give me the
answer.) Isn't it proof of the scarcity and therefore of the value of them ? The
light tipped birds in my opinion have had their day and are now only commoners.
Any fancier with an eye to the beautiful cannot but help vote for the dark ones.
The richness of color alone carries with it one word "quality."
With reference to pullets I also like the rich dark brown color and enclose a
feather taken from a pullet's back to-day and consider that they should not be
any lighter in ground color than this, although this feather looked darker in
the bird than it does out. I also like to see every feather clear in the brown
not ticked with small black ticks.
In breeding these dark brown birds I feel sure also that the females will in
time keep their color better and not moult out so light. In proof of this I have
a few hens, one two and another three years old that have no more white in them
than in their first year.
We in England have not considered under color to the extent you have, personally
I prefer slate or red or slate and red. I do not care for light in undercolor at
all, either for a show or breeding bird.
The difficulty one has in showing these real dark birds is that often a man
officiates as judge who has never bred Speckleds and therefore goes for a showy
light bird and does not appreciate the difficulty in breeding the dark ones.
A. J. Falkenstein.













 
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American poultry journal, Volume 52
Pages 784 thru 786 .
http://tinyurl.com/9ygrr32
Color of Speckled Sussex.
In mating the Speckled Sussex the first thing to consider is type. The Sussex fowl has a type distinctly its own, and it is » type that is both practical and very beautiful, and breeders should strive to maintain
In picking the females for the mating select those having long, broad, deep bodies which slope slightly from shoulders to tail, full, prominent hreasts. low well spread tails, shanks of medium length, good substance and set well apart, strong necks of medium length and broad, deep skulls.
In surface color, tho female should be an even shade of rich mahogany" POMO color over entire breast, back and body each feather ending in a black bar with a white tip.
There is a tendency toward peppering in the ground color of the feathers and this must be guarded against, although a small amount of this is not such a serious breeding defect as some people seem to think.
Under color should bo slate or slate shading into salmon at the skin.
In wings I like to have tho primaries mixed black and white, and the lower halt or outer edge of each secondary feather a rich mahogany brown, and the upper hall or inner edge of secondary, black. This kind of wing shows a beautiful brown wnen folded. . , .
Main tail feathers should be black and white, a little more black than white, and the coverts black, tipped with white.
The male to go with these females should be a bird that is full of vigor and vitality and of not less than 9 lbs. lor cock or ih for cockerel. He should have a long, broad, flat back which slopes nicely from shoulders to tail; a full, prominent, squared appearing breast, low well spread tail: shanks that are straight, strong and set well apart! large neck, of medium length; and a broad, dee,} head. ■ , .
His color should be an even shade of dart rich mahogany over neck, back, wing bowl and saddle, each hackle and saddle feather to have a narrow black stripe through tM center of lower end. ,
It is desirable to have each hackle and saddle feather tipped with white, but do not be too particular about tipping in these two sections, as males having very little hackle and saddle tipping will breed good stock. The thing to work for is the proper shade of ground color. One male having tlie correct shade of mahogany ground color and practically no hackle and saddle tipping is worth a dozen males that are nicely tipped in these sections but have the light red or sandy ground color.
As breeders, use those males whose under co'or is slate shading into salmon at the base in all sections. The breast, body and fluft surface coior of the male should be the same as that o> the back of the females. Wing color, same as that described for the females. Main tail feathers about equally divided in black and white, main sickles, lesser sickles and coverts greenish black tipped with white.
However, it is not always possible to have the main sickle feathers black, as is attested by the fact that some of the winning males in our best shows have almost solid white sickles. From such a mating as is above described one may reasonably expect to get a large percentage of good exhibition specimens of both sexes.
Now about picking out the promising birds amidst the young stock, and on this matter I write for the purpose of aiding the beginner with Sussex to properly select and develop his young stock.
Picking the chicks for color is a comparatively easy task for me, and begins as soon as the chicks are hatched and thoroughly dried. When taking off a hatch it will be noted that some of the chicks have rich yellow-colored bodies with a reddish cast on top, others will be a deep brown with stripes along each side of the back and still others will be very light in color, in fact almost white. This great variation in the color of the chicks is due to the fact that the Speckled Sussex is a tri-colored or three-colored fowl. If the reddish yellow and the brown chicks are leg banded or toe marked and their development carefully noted it will be found that they are the ones that will grow into the best colored fowls. This does not mean that none of the whiter chicks will be of any value in color, as usually there will be a few of them that will develop- into nicely colored birds, but not any appreciable number. Occasionally chicks will hatch almost black and these will always remain too dark in color.
From this it will be seen that one may pick his Sussex chicks for color at a very early age. In fact, so early that some who read this may say it can't be done, but this is not an epistle to the unbeliever. I have followed this plan of selecting for color for several years, and found it satisfactory.
Picking for type requires a little age on the birds. The beginner should not attempt to select for type until his chicks are about twelve weeks old, although I have reached the point where I can pick most of those that will be best in type at a somewhat earlier age. If the chicks are closely observed it will be seen that some of them have long, flat backs, full round breasts and a considerable fullness below the vent. These are the fellows to select for type. The chicks that have slim bodies, flat breasts, long, slender legs and little body formation back of the legs never amount to much in type, and neither do those that have little, short "humped up" bodies. So much for selecting the birds. Now we come to the subject of feeding them.
When the chicks are forty-eight hours old give a feed of corn bread that has been soaked in milk and from which the excess moisture has been squeezed, being careful to give only as much of the feed as will be cleaned up in about 15 minutes. The bread and milk should be the only feed given the chicks for the first three days. After the third day a mixture of grain composed of one part corn, one part wheat, one-half part hulled oats' and one-half part kafir corn ground to the fineness of coffee when ground on mother's old hand mill should be added to the ration. Feed the chicks four times a day, giving two feeds of the grain and' two of the moist bread. Continue with this feed until the chicks are four weeks old, at which time you may discontinue the moist bread and substitute a bolied mash made up of one part corn meal, one part bran and one part rolled oats. You also should at this time increase the size of the grains in the grain mixture.
Any table scraps you have on hand may be added to the cooked mash and will be greatly relished by the birds. Provide plenty of green feed right from the start, and once a day give the chicks all the buttermilk they will drink, if obtainable. If you have no milk, add a little coarse beef scrap to the grain feed after the chicks are a month old. Grit, charcoal and clean water should be accessible at all times. This constitutes the full feeding course from the time the chicks are hatched until fully matured. It is a method of feeding that is very simple and easy to practice and one that will produce results.
Now a few points on housing. Provide the growing stock with dry, well ventilated houses that are kept clean, free from lice and mites and well bedded. As the weather becomes warmer, usa the coarsest straw* obtainable for litter, and see that it is deep enough to hold the chicks well up off the floor so the air will circulate through the straw under them. Keep the birds off the perches until two-thirds grown, and thus avoid crooked breast bones.
Missouri. John Miller.
( Karen: Sedalia, Missouri )
 
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THE SPECKLED SUSSEX
John Miller, Sedalla, Mo.
The Speckled Sussex are one of England'• best productions in the poultry field. They have the correct size for an ideal table bird, their weights being: Oock-9 lbs., Cockerel-7% lbs., Hen-7 lbs., and PuIlets-6 lbs. Most of their weight is carried on the parts of the body where the most desirable flesh is to be found. The breast and back are very broad, and the thighs are large. Their flesh is tender, juicy and well flavored. They mature quickly, take on flesh rapidly and dress easily; and are splendid layers of good size eggs, both winter and summer. So much for their utility qualities.
In fancy points they are equally good. Their color combination, which is one of the most beautiful in the whole feathered world, handsome, distinctive type, quick, active and alert disposition all combine to make a fowl that is very attractive. They are adapted to all climates, easily raised and are not prone to weakness and disease.
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A WORD ABOUT THE SPECKLED SUSSEX
By JOHN MILLER, Sedalia, Missouri.
Believing that a majority of the people who constitute the poultry loving public are more interested in the merits of a fowl than they are in just how it came into existence, I shall not attempt to deal with the origin of the Speckled Sussex in this article, but shall confine my remarks to a brief explanation of the characteristics of the breed and what those who know it best think of it. It is in that part of England that is noted the world over for the fine market poultry which it produces that the Sussex are bred most extensively, and they have gained in favor with the people of that country to such an extent that today they are referred to as "England's National Table Bird." There are no people who are better qualified to pass on the merits of a fowl than are the English poulterers, and when they place their stamp of approval on a bird we may rest assured that it is worthy of the highest commendation. The Sussex are not a one purpose breed. They are built to fulfill the requirements of a general purpose fowl. They have the correct size for an ideal table bird, being neither too large or too small. The greater part of their weight is carried on the breast, back and thighs, the parts where the most desirable flesh is to be found. The long, broad, deep bodies of the birds afford ample room for the proper functioning of the digestive and reproductive organs, thus assuring a good egg yield, and I have found by actual experience that they will lay as many eggs the year through as any of the dual purpose breeds. They mature quickly, take on flesh rapidly and dreas easily. In fineness of texture, tenderness and excellence of flavor the flesh of the Sussex rivals that of the turkey. In the preceding I have spoken of only the practical qualities of the Speckled Sussex, but I wish to say that they are equally good as an exhibition fowl. Their handsome, distinctive type, unusually beautiful and distinctly different color scheme and wide awake disposition all combine to make a bird that is very attractive wherever seen.
 
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Anyone have pictures of some Cinnamon Sussex? I am pretty sure I have three babies out of the 5 that hatched. The other two are obvious. Black coming into the little wings. :)
 

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