Those who need help in sexing peafowl

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In all seriousness I would like to express a couple of opinions based upon the wretchedly laughable continuation of this thread:

1. I do believe that lack of protein intake during the laying season can cause the curled feet and toes issue. This is an issue when people collect the eggs and make the hens produce the maximum number of eggs she will produce. We do that. Increasing our protein content last year cured the problem in all but the last 50 or so eggs.

2. Humidity, I believe, or lack thereof, during incubation is the other big cause of curled toes and feet. Not so experienced with this.

3. If anyone thinks that mice cannot exist with peafowl, you need to come down here. There ain't no way on gods green earth that we can get rid of all the mice. I don't lose any peafowl to the mice. Peafowl will kill the mice, however. At one time we used lots of the closed traps. Then we witnessed a peahen killing a mouse. Now we actually flood the underground nests on a regular basis as the only control.
I. Rodents

Rodent feces have been found to contain infectious doses of salmonella. Consequently, mouse pellets commonly deposited in feed troughs are now believed to amplify salmonella contamination in poultry. Beyond their salmonella amplification role, rodents appear to carry infection to both nearby and distant houses and farms.

Therefore, salmonella risk reduction should include (1) attempts to make all facilities rodent-proof, (2) proper selection of baits and bait placement, (3) prompt, secure disposal of any dead birds, broken eggs or unused or spilled feed, and (4) regularly repeated professional rodent inspections, baiting and trapping. Cats are not recommended. They spread fowl cholera and salmonella.


Again it's a NO NO. I have a horse farm behind me and woods to the left and right and if I can keep out mice and rats anyone can.

Here's what I found on curled toes:

Riboflavin (Vitamin B2)
Deficiency (Curly Toe Disease)
Clinical signs
Young chicks, as early as 1-week-old, exhibit curling of the
toes, inability to walk and sometimes diarrhoea.
Treatment and control
Administering vitamin B preparations brings a rapid cure.
Only in advanced cases will birds be dehydrated and
emaciated, requiring further treatment.
It is important to ensure adequate vitamin B levels not only
in starter and grower diets, but also in the diet of parent
breeders.

So instead of uping the protein level try putting vitamins in the breeder hen's water supply and see if that works. My Bird Vet knows Peafowl cause her father raises them, I am going to ask her about this and I will post her reply.
 
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Or I can just listen to my aunt and someone who has raised peafowl for 30 years and use the advice they already told me. It's impossible to have mice away from peafowl. Well on the salmonella topic eggs and cookie dough contain salmonella so I guess we shouldn't eat those. Birds have a better immune system then you think. How do you think I should get rid of the mice? Bait, traps, or poison the mice, they don't leave the chicken coop. I use a trap on the inside thank you for have a bird with a broken toe then I will have to put it down. Poison thank you for killing my bird. I bet in that horse barn there is a mouse or rat poop. Just because you don't see them doesn't mean they're not there.
 
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Out of all of those I only have Kenia and Kida. Rather I released the bird and never saw them again or a predator would take them like Daffy. Daffy died Christmas day because a coyote went through chicken wire and killed him and left him on my porch. The other three Indian Runner ducks are now in California. Coco just died along with Aurora.
This Coco is the one you had sexed as a hen already and she has died? How do you lose two newborn peachicks?? I read in an early post you made when someone asked how long the peachick would take before it's feathers dried and would be able to walk around,,your response was to keep the peachick in 80 degree temps and it should be fluffy in a few hours. This is WRONG,,newborn peachicks can stay inside the incubator for 1-2 days and when taken out,the temps should be the same as inside their incubator for a week,,then drop temp by 5 degrees each week afterwards.Peachcks should be 3 weeks old before the temps surrounding them is only 80 degrees after they hatched (as per your earlier advice to another byc member) they undoubtedly got too cold.
 
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All eggs DO_NOT_Have salmonella, and it was the raw egg in the cookie dough that made those people sick.

-Kathy
 
In reference to post 884 "Or I can just listen to my aunt and someone who has raised peafowl for 30 years and use the advice they already told me. It's impossible to have mice away from peafowl."


One last thought while I'm at work,,,it is very possible NOT to have mice around peafowl. All my feed is kept in 55 gallon plastic barrels with lids that has a steel ring clamp to keep them on and tight. Feeders that hang from the ceiling,or even if mounted to a wall,provided a sheet of galvanized metal is placed on the wall directly under the feeder will keep mice away since they do NOT have a source for food. We fight mice the first cold spell because once the field crops are harvested they will move to a place that provides shelter and a possible food source.We eliminate their food source and only use bait in areas where no animals have access to and in a few weeks we have no mice all winter.
 
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I do brooders like FBC said, but this is what I found at, 80 degrees is way to cold for *any* species of chick:
http://www.avianweb.com/brooders.html

Make sure to warm the brooder / tank up to the correct temperature before adding the chicks. A non-breakable Thermometer at "chick level" in the brooder along with this temperature guide will allow you to monitor the temperature:​
Age of Poultry (feathered) Chick Degrees in
Fahrenheit
1st Week 90 - 95*1
2nd Week 85 - 90
3rd Week 80 - 85
4th Week 75 - 80
5th Week 70 - 75
6th Week + 70*2​
 
And this:
http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2013/04/when-to-move-chicks-from-brooder-to.html


TEMPERATURES/TIME OF YEAR
“The Formula:” is what I call the usual temperature guidelines commonly suggested for day old chicks. The Formula holds that brooder temperatures should be kept between 90-95° F for the first week after hatching, and reduced by five degrees each week thereafter until the brooder temperature equals the ambient room temperature.

The Formula
Week 1= 90-95°F
Week 2= 85°F
Week 3= 80° F
Week 3= 75° F
Week 4= 70° F
Week 5=65°F

The Formula is a general guideline; the behavior of chicks is a much better indicator of their actual comfort level. The truth about The Formula is that while 90°F is critical in the first week, chicks do not need as much constant heat as heat lamps deliver for as long as it is ordinarily recommended. When chicks are observed spending very little time near the heat source, it can ordinarily be eliminated.
 
All eggs DO_NOT_Have salmonella, and it was the raw egg in the cookie dough that made those people sick.

-Kathy
Am I the only one that realized that this statement just collapsed on itself. I said when they are fluffy and can walk they can go outside the incubator which from the start of hatching to fluffy and walking that can take a day or two. Doing the math your theory doesn't make sense if you fall it to the letter. How warm should an incubator be if I'm so inexperienced with birds? I remember that the incubator should be at 98-102 degrees Fahrenheit. I incubate at 100 degrees Fahrenheit and it does perfect for me. If you incubate at 100 degrees Fahrenheit as well 3 weeks dropping it 5 degrees a week leaves you at 85 degrees. Also a chick can insulate itself when it's 2 weeks old. Now doesn't mean that you can put it somewhere at 60 or below but keeping it so high of a temperature when they are 2 weeks old can make it so the chick over heats. House temperature can do which at my house is 75 degrees. I've never lost a chick from the cold. Only thing I've lost chicks from is predator or stress. Chicks die really easily from stress. 95 degrees feathered? I've lost broiler chicks who don't even have feathers and they died from over heating at 90 degrees.
 
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