Thread formerly known as Hatch day is today

[GrannyCarol]

You wouldn't see his air cell at all at this stage, would you? He should have broken into it to breathe before he pipped and zipped and it would be the space between the duckling and the end of the shell that came off. (If everything is normal) Did you candle before he hatched? And, if so, was his air cell noticeably smaller than the one on the diagram? That would indicate too much humidity during his development and thus a duckling that is too large in the egg and that is a bit short of air to breathe as he hatches.

I'm wondering if anyone here does the cool downs that Holderread suggests during incubation? I don't remember the exact protocol, but basically it is starting week two (not sure on the day), you open the 'bator for 5 mins or so to cool off a bit, then close it back up. I guess it improves his hatches. I haven't really been doing that for the last couple of years, but did on my first few incubations. Maybe if I incubate any this year (I'm going with my good broody ducks I think), I'll try that.

 

[QuackerJackFarms]

Quote:
You know what DG? You might be onto something there. My air cells were small in the batch I lost. I've been analyzing EVERYTHING wondering what I did wrong.. maybe that has something to do with it.. Mine were fully formed but never broke into the air cell.

 

[QuackerJackFarms]

70%cocoa :

Stillmecle, it was me who put up that info out of Storey's Guide to Raising Ducks.

If you want to go with the one constant temp (which I would do too) then go with 102F for a still air incubator.

For humidity I'd start with 55% but candle every four or 5 days to make sure the air cell development is on track as per the following diagram:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/uploads/80856_duck_egg_air_cell.jpg
If the air cell is too small, lower humidity. If the air cell is too large, raise humidity.

You can put all the batches of eggs in together. You don't have to drop the temp for the hatch, you can keep it the same all the way through. But I would put the humidity up to 70% while the first lot are in the hatch phase.

I'm on day 17 but my aircells look more like a day 10... So I'm going to lower humidity right?​

 

[70%cocoa]

Air cell development is really, really important. Too big or too small and the hatch will be affected. So, it could well have been an issue for BonJovi and QJ's hatch....

But the good thing is you can control it if you candle and adjust the humidity

 

[QuackerJackFarms]

Quote:
Interesting.

 

[QuackerJackFarms]

70%cocoa :

Air cell development is really, really important. Too big or too small and the hatch will be affected. So, it could well have been an issue for BonJovi and QJ's hatch....

But the good thing is you can control it if you candle and adjust the humidity

I'm going to go candle right now and check. With my last hatch I had a feeling that something was wrong with the air cell. It didn't have that swag droop thing it does going on. That may not have made sense.​

 

[stillmecle]

70%cocoa :

102F for a still air means the temp measured 2 inches above the floor.

The Acurite Therm sits about 2" up.​

 

[GrannyCarol]

BTW, on earlier hatches we traced the air cell on the shell with a pencil when we candled. It made it easy to see if the air cell was growing between checks.

I'm looking up incubation in "Storey's Guide to Raising Ducks" and came across this information:

"Incubators, particularly still-air models, must be level to perform well. If the incubator is operated while askew, the temperature of the eggs will vary in different areas of the machine, causing eggs to hatch poorly and over an extended period of time." Wow... never thought of that, but it makes perfect sense. Next time I use an incubator, you can be sure I'm going to level it!

Later he mentions that our specific environment will change how our eggs hatch... particularly temperature, humidity and barometric pressure. Now I never considered barometric pressure! Also elevation, breeds being hatched, diet of the breeding stock and the duration of the hatching season. I'd guess that eggs are more fertile in the spring just in general and hatch better.

Then he goes on to say that the incubator should be set up 48 to 72 hours ahead of time to make all the adjustments and get it regulated before putting eggs in. That I'm careful with, it can take several days to be sure the incubator is running right and I've had to change the thermostat to get it to regulate. BTW, with the wafer thermostats you should replace them every couple of years to be sure they are working accurately. He says one of the most critical periods for the developing embryo is the first 4 - 5 days of incubation.

If your eggs are cold, warm them for 5-6 hours too room temperature slowly before incubation - if cold eggs are set without warming them, water condenses on the shells and the yolks occasionally rupture. I didn't know that either.

He says to set them on their sides with the big end slightly elevated. If they are set with the air cell lowered that chances of hatching are decreased by 75%! Set only the number that fits comfortably with no crowding. If possible do not disturb them at all during the first 24 hours of incubation.

For still air incubators first read the manual and follow the directions for your make and model. Otherwise, for still air incubators either start at 101.5 F the first week, then 102F, then 102.5F and 103F the third week (I'd never be sure of that degree of accuracy, I'll go with his recommendation for an incubator that you keep putting more eggs in... 102 - 102.5F constant temperature). The top of the thermometer's bulb should be level with the top of the eggs. In the last few days keep an eye on it, the ducklings start to generate a lot of heat as they hatch and you may have to turn it down a degree or so.

For good hatches you need to watch humidity - too little and the ducklings are puny and weak, making it difficult for them to break out of the eggs. Too much and they have a hard time turning within the egg and cracking all the way around the shell.

The rate in which the contents of the eggs dehydrate is regulated by the moisture of the air in the incubator and the porosity of the shell. (I'm learning a lot reading this!) The correct level of humidity varies widely depending on factors such as the elevation, breed of duck, egg size, shell quality, storage length and humidity prior to incubation, environmental temperature while the egg is in the nest prior to being gathered and the length of time the female has been laying eggs. No wonder this is so difficult! He says the longer the duck lays, the more porous her egg shells are.

That would be why you'd watch the air cells as the diagram posted earlier. If they are too large, increase moisture and/or decrease ventilation (being sure not to cut off fresh air). If they are too small, decrease moisture and/or increase ventilation. Ducklings breathe through their shells and need fresh air and more of it at hatching.

For good hatches duck eggs should be turned a minimum of 3 times daily at 8 hour intervals at least 1/3 of the way around. He recommends marking them with an X on one side and an O on the other (with a pencil) and being sure you switch and all of them are the same every time. I do that and keep a chart and mark it when I turn them, otherwise it's hard for me to remember if I did or not and when! I keep charts on every hatch - candling notes, weights, turning charts, what hatches, what is clear and what quits. I label each egg with a number and track it. It's interesting and fun, though I don't always keep the charts! Be gentle when you turn the eggs to keep from injuring the babies.

As for cooling, what I was looking for!, he says for best results when using still air incubators, eggs should be cooled once daily - except during the first week and the last 5 days of incubation. In a 65-70 degree room, remove the trays of eggs (I didn't use trays so I took the tops of the incubators off) for 5 mins a day the second wee, 8 mins daily the 3rd week and 12 mins a day for the fourth week. Be really careful the first week and last five days, low temperatures can be disastrous then), but otherwise they will cope if you forget and leave them out a bit too long. If you find the temperature is high by more than 2 degrees F, IMMEDIATELY cool the eggs for 10 minutes and make adjustments to correct the problem.

Well, there is a small portion of the excellent information found in that book on ducks... I really recommend you all to get a copy and study it if you want good hatches and want to learn a lot about ducks!

 

[70%cocoa]

Quote:
I'm on day 17 but my aircells look more like a day 10... So I'm going to lower humidity right?

That is right - lower humidity to increase the size of the air cell. I'd lower it to 40 or less if you can manage it.

 

[Miss Lydia]

Quote:
What your saying makes sense, watching my broody ducks and chickens they know exactly how long to be off the eggs during incubation, which is the cool down part. It's amazing to me.

and Daves book is a must for anyone hatching either in a bator or through broody. JM2Cents