To insulate or not to insulate

SJFougere

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I live in Ontario Canada and we can get down to -30 celcius on the coldest nights. I've just expanded my coop. I will add a picture. I have fixed where you can see light shining through in this picture. I have some OSB sheets that I'm going to put up inside and I'm wondering if I should put in some insulation first or if its just overkill. I tend to go overboard when I don't need to.
Screenshot_20251201_175301_Blink.jpg
 
I live in Ontario Canada and we can get down to -30 celcius on the coldest nights. I've just expanded my coop. I will add a picture. I have fixed where you can see light shining through in this picture. I have some OSB sheets that I'm going to put up inside and I'm wondering if I should put in some insulation first or if its just overkill. I tend to go overboard when I don't need to.View attachment 4259507
Lookspretty good, but I'm in NZ. And -30 is ridiculous. Insulate the whole thing is what I would do. I wouldn't want my chickens catching frostbite.I saw -30 and assumed it was farenheit because I can;t even imagine temps that low. Insulation is the best plan
 
I'm wondering if I should put in some insulation first
I would not.

My flock is exposed to temps about that low during our winters with the lowest at -23F and they did fine with no insulation but lots of ventilation.
2CAA8E144C7F_1578235491412.jpg

My single combed rooster got a bit of frostbite dubbing but that's all. I have since switched over to breeds that can tolerate those colder temperatures. In other words, nothing with a large single comb during cold weather. They all have pea combs or rose combs. Or shriveled up single combs because the old hens are taking a winter break.

I have seedling heat mats under the nest box bedding material. I will turn them on for nights that get bitterly cold (sub-zero) and will put my oldest hens into the boxes to help them deal with the stress of the cold weather.

Two problems with insulating are rodents chewing their way to the inside of the walls and becoming inaccessible and mites being able to burrow into cracks and set up shop where it would be nearly impossible to rid yourself of them.

Remember, birds are not mammals. They are built to withstand the cold weather by fluffing up their feathers to trap their own body heat. It's like a built-in down jacket. All the tiny sparrows and other winter birds you see don't have the benefit of a coop to block the wind like chickens do. And they may or may not have found enough food to digest throughout the night to generate body heat and yet they still survive. Your chickens should always go to roost with full crops.
Lookspretty good, but I'm in NZ. And -30 is ridiculous. Insulate the whole thing is what I would do. I wouldn't want my chickens catching frostbite.I saw -30 and assumed it was farenheit because I can;t even imagine temps that low. Insulation is the best plan
You don't live in a climate that has cold winters so you have no experience with it and really shouldn't offer advice.
Your expertise is in keeping chickens alive in excessive heat!
 
I live in Ontario Canada and we can get down to -30 celcius on the coldest nights. I've just expanded my coop. I will add a picture. I have fixed where you can see light shining through in this picture. I have some OSB sheets that I'm going to put up inside and I'm wondering if I should put in some insulation first or if its just overkill. I tend to go overboard when I don't need to.View attachment 4259507
@Ted Brown
@Mrs. K
@Ponypoor

Edit to add: for those of us in non-Celsius Land, -30°C is -22°F (those that I @‘ed above are familiar with these temps, plus there are others whose names refuse to appear in my memory, who live in Alberta, Montana, etc.)
 
The problem is when we start thinking warm and insulation, well the only way to warm up an air space is to close it up tight.

With chickens, we need to give them adequate wind protection. With wind protection they can keep themselves warm if they are dry.

So while it seems counterintuitive to shut down drafts, and open up ventilation, that will keep birds warm.

As to frostbite, in a more arid climate that I am in, what causes frostbite is a thaw, then a temperature drop. When it is below zero, I don’t worry about moisture, it is frozen solid, not making my birds damp.

Today, though, it is supposed to get back up to 40F. I will go down, pull out the piles of manure, and add dry bedding, which tends to pull moisture from the air. If I didn’t, all that thawing manure release a lot of moisture, the melting snow does the same thing creating humidity- and then with temperatures dropping in the night, I might have birds nipped.

While I try and take good care of my chickens, I look at frostbite as not a life endangering event, but more like skinned knees on an 8 year old kid. A fact of life.

Our winter here bounces all over with temperatures and snow, sometimes we won’t get above 0 for days, then we can get to 60F above.

Mrs K
 
@DobieLover has given you good advice.
No insulation.
Plenty of Draft-free ventilation.
If you have chickens with single combs, coat combs with Vaseline as a frostbite preventative.
I second the "listen to" advice above.

Regarding vaseline; I recall that @ aart (bless her memories) advised against. I focus on ventilation and moisture elimination (which one accomplishes via ventilation; somewhat counter intuitive but works).
 
Vasoline is not a good idea, and really doesn't help. I also prefer birds without big single combs, because especially the roosters will get frostbitten (frozen) comb tips, at least.
Also, open water dishes, like the dog dishes that work well in warmer weather, will cause frozen toes and wattles if the birds dip into that water in freezing weather. It's happened here, and our dog bowl type waterers are put away when the weather is freezing.
Good ventilation up high, and wind protection, are what matters.
Rats and mice will be delighted to chew into and live in those closed in walls, with or without insulation in the cavities. Again, it's happened here.
I like insulating the roof, for summer, especially if there's not adequate shade against summer sun.
And plan to have breeds that handle cold weather, it makes everything easier for you and your birds.
Mary
 

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