Topic of the Week - Biosecurity, Quarantine and Infectious Disease Management

[supersymmetry]

First thing, I'd refer most folks to this older post I made that is stickied on BYC:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/129278/speckledhens-ten-commandments-of-good-flock-management
Especially pay attention to #7 and #8


- (How) do you quarantine new birds before adding them to the flock?

I personally do NOT add new birds, PERIOD. I hatch and in the past, have gotten chicks from hatchery shipments the first day or two they arrived at the feed store. I've added TWO started birds in 12 years, one the first year and one the third year. I quarantined the first one for 5 weeks in a dog cage in a basement bathroom, sometimes taking him to a sunny deck outside in warm weather. The second, a gift from a friend who had never even seen one of her birds sneeze and never taken birds from others, was an 8 week old pullet she hatched from a breeder's eggs and was in a separate coop for EIGHT weeks-that hen is still with me at 9 years old. Neither had anything contagious show up here. No other birds have ever come from elsewhere, not even a chick.

The best way to handle disease is truly to prevent it in the first place, to the best of your ability. Since no one can see a germ, even your best efforts may not be enough, but with excellent precautions, you are likely to keep healthy flocks for many, many years.

This many times over! New birds, or having "chicken people" over (especially in pens / coops / pasture) is one of the primary vectors for introduction of contagious pathogens! I visit another farm fairly regularly (my brother's farm) and I use a special pair of farm galoshes that get sterilized before and after every visit. It might sound OCD to some people, but if you have ever looked in a microscope, or had an outbreak (of anything) then you know that prevention is the best medicine. I have been safe for 7 years, but I never want to experience this!

Also, a huge portion of chicken illness that was touched on, is raising and selecting extremely vigorous and healthy birds acclimated for your climate / region. This is just another reason to advocate for a 'closed herd / flock' which prevents disease, but also 'self-selects' chickens that are highly resilient to your area and husbandry practices! Almost everyone can always cull harder. I always keep the top 10% or less.

One thing that has not been mentioned, that can be a challenge, and that we have some limited control over is the introduction of disease from wild birds. I used to keep a (wild) bird feeder by my kitchen window, but once my chickens began adding it to their 'rounds' I promptly removed it. I still pasture my chickens in my mulberry orchard for 6-8 weeks in the Summer... even though wild birds join in the bounty with them. I see the trade off in rich anti-oxidant, fermented berries (and the bugs) offsetting the risk from wild animals. If there was an ongoing outbreak, or I had found a dead bird somewhere on the property I would adjust accordingly.

It's all about risk vs reward. One must always ask is __________ worth the risk. Sometimes it is; sometimes it is not!

 

[lazy gardener]

Quote: Wise points, all. especially regarding culling. I also stopped feeding wild birds several years ago. While having wild birds at a feeder makes the winter pass so much more pleasantly, I did not want my birds gleaning under a bird feeder. Granted, I could put out a feeder during the snow months, but... one never knows when there may be the rare winter that is open, or even partially open, so it's just as simple to just choose not to feed the wild birds. My yard is continually morphing into a yard that will feed wild life as well as myself and my flock naturally, so there's always exposure to wild life. Some of that is a blessing, in the wild turkeys that carry a non lethal Marecks. I am a strong advocate for hatching chicks from my own flock. Over time, my flocks will be ever more adapted to my local conditions, and will be closer to a land race breed... if I can only resist the urge to bring in new chicks every few years.

 

[azygous]

There are very few things I can add to what our team of experts have already. But I see there's been little mention of avian viruses, other than respiratory disease and a brief touch on Marek's.

These avian viruses, which include Marek's, Mycoplasma, and leucosis, infect for life, are extremely contagious, and worst of all, infected birds often never show symptoms.

Because many chickens carrying such diseases often show no symptoms, yet are still contagious, quarantine isn't going to assure safety against a new chicken who happens to be a carrier of such diseases. So what can a flock keeper do to protect their flock?

It's already been suggested that people make a rule not to add any chickens except hatchery approved baby chicks and chicks from their own flock. It's one of the best insurances against introducing a disease that can have lasting consequences for your flock.

But these viruses can infect a flock without hitchhiking on a chicken. Some like Marek's are extremely durable and long lasting. They can enter on the bottoms of people's shoes from long distances. They can be transmitted through air currents, dander, and feces from wild birds. I'm a flock owner who has no idea how lymphotic leucosis got into her flock. Yet, there's no doubt it's in my chickens since I had a necropsy done which gave me the diagnosis. But I suspect it came with the first three hens I began my flock with. All I can do now is try not to infect other folks' flocks and care for my flock in a manner in which to maximize their health and resistance. And to make others aware that these viruses exist.

 

[Folly's place]

Last spring a sick house wren showed up at a bird feeder at my house. Panic struck! I removed all the feeders (none where my chickens roam), and kept the flock locked in for another ten days. Meanwhile, a snowstorm happened the day after the sick bird sighting, and I talked to the near neighbors about bringing in their bird feeders for a few weeks. No more sick wild birds, and no illness in my flock. A close call for sure. Those birds carry Mycoplasma, something that would be a disaster. My flock free ranges, and wild birds get into their coop, and bird feeders are a great place to spread diseases. Mary

 

[supersymmetry]

Wise points, all. especially regarding culling. I also stopped feeding wild birds several years ago. While having wild birds at a feeder makes the winter pass so much more pleasantly, I did not want my birds gleaning under a bird feeder. Granted, I could put out a feeder during the snow months, but... one never knows when there may be the rare winter that is open, or even partially open, so it's just as simple to just choose not to feed the wild birds. My yard is continually morphing into a yard that will feed wild life as well as myself and my flock naturally, so there's always exposure to wild life. Some of that is a blessing, in the wild turkeys that carry a non lethal Marecks. I am a strong advocate for hatching chicks from my own flock. Over time, my flocks will be ever more adapted to my local conditions, and will be closer to a land race breed... if I can only resist the urge to bring in new chicks every few years.

The thing is, while well intentioned, I almost cringe everytime I hear about someone splinting a splay-leg or 'assisting' a hatched egg... or any number of other interventions. It is a dis-service to the breed to allow things to survive that otherwise would not! This is how we ended up with non-broody hens, chickens that struggle to live past 12 weeks, and roosters that are unable to fend for themselves and protect their flock.

On a side note, while not everyone can have roosters, I will say that it's benefits are awesome. I honestly don't know if I can replace my current alpha roo. He is ambivalent to children, cautious of strangers and ever vigilant in protecting the flock. I have witnessed the regular warning calls, and have even seen him fight off hawks several times this Winter.

 

[Folly's place]

I necropsy every bird who dies here unless it's obvious, like a predator attack. Prevention is best, and knowing what might be going on in the flock makes for good decisions, moving forward. Chicks I order from a hatchery are vaccinated for Marek's disease and isolated until they have immunity, and birds hatched here aren't vaccinated. Like canaries in a coal mine, they will start having issues if Marek's ever arrives.

Mary

 

[PeepersMama]

The thing is, while well intentioned, I almost cringe everytime I hear about someone splinting a splay-leg or 'assisting' a hatched egg... or any number of other interventions. It is a dis-service to the breed to allow things to survive that otherwise would not! This is how we ended up with non-broody hens, chickens that struggle to live past 12 weeks, and roosters that are unable to fend for themselves and protect their flock.

On a side note, while not everyone can have roosters, I will say that it's benefits are awesome. I honestly don't know if I can replace my current alpha roo. He is ambivalent to children, cautious of strangers and ever vigilant in protecting the flock. I have witnessed the regular warning calls, and have even seen him fight off hawks several times this Winter.

I'm no expert/super experienced breeder, but if you don't breed a splay legged chick or a help-out, why wouldn't you help them? Granted, if they were in the wild they would die, but as long as care is taken to not hatch eggs from them, I see no reason not to.
If any of you guys have a good reason why not too, please say so. I'm still learning

 

[Folly's place]

It's true that helping a little critter survive MIGHT be a kind thing to do, but definitely that individual shouldn't arrive in the breeding pen. It might be difficult to remember who it is, not a good thing. Such surviving chicks could move to a flock of non breeders, with disclosure. And I've always has cocks and cockerels, and love having them. With appropriate culling, that is, and considering breeding goals. Mary

 

[lazy gardener]

Quote: I will assist with a hatch, my theory being that if I am artificially incubating, then, I am not able to provide the perfect hatching experience for my egglets. Therefore, if there is a difficult hatch, it may very well be due to difficulties with temp or humidity management. I've also had perfectly viable chicks that were simply too big to get out of the egg. (IMO that's not a genetic issue, but a discrepancy between + nutrition and - egg shell size). I've also had chicks that were malpositioned, couldn't get beak into correct position to pip. This could be related to chick size, or perhaps chick a bit on the dry side. Again... I don't blame these issues on genetics. Many of my assisted hatches have gone on to be wonderful flock members. Others, I've had to cull before they spent more than a day or two in the brooder. IMO, better to cull early than later.

 

[casportpony]

Quote: I will assist with a hatch, my theory being that if I am artificially incubating, then, I am not able to provide the perfect hatching experience for my egglets. Therefore, if there is a difficult hatch, it may very well be due to difficulties with temp or humidity management. I've also had perfectly viable chicks that were simply too big to get out of the egg. (IMO that's not a genetic issue, but a discrepancy between + nutrition and - egg shell size). I've also had chicks that were malpositioned, couldn't get beak into correct position to pip. This could be related to chick size, or perhaps chick a bit on the dry side. Again... I don't blame these issues on genetics. Many of my assisted hatches have gone on to be wonderful flock members. Others, I've had to cull before they spent more than a day or two in the brooder. IMO, better to cull early than later.
You just said what I was about to say...

It's been my experience that the majority of eggs that need assistance, and chicks that need tending to legs and/or toes, are chicks that have been artificially incubated, not those incubated under hens.