Topic of the Week - Managing Your Chickens' Molt

I feed 18%. Where do you get 20%? Isn't that too much protein?
Flock Raiser is a Purina brand and is sold in most feed stores around here. Southern States is the exception, but they carry their own version of an all flock food. At any given time, I have some chickens who are not laying so I feed Flock Raiser all year with oyster shell on the side. 20% is fine to feed to them especially if they have free range time.
 
Flock Raiser is a Purina brand and is sold in most feed stores around here. Southern States is the exception, but they carry their own version of an all flock food. At any given time, I have some chickens who are not laying so I feed Flock Raiser all year with oyster shell on the side. 20% is fine to feed to them especially if they have free range time.
Ok. I do free range for a couple of hours in the evening, because of hawks in the daytime.
I'll get some next time I need feed. Thanks!
 
This is my first molting year, so I'm watching. My biggest question was also if diet should change. Based on what people have said, I should get some higher protein feed. Should I start that when they begin their molt, or now (before it begins)?
 
How do you tell if they are molting or infested with parasites?
Molting birds have a certain look, though molting birds can have parasites too. When in doubt, check them for parasites.
Feed supplementation - do you change their diet in any way?
Mine all get a 20% pellet, so no need to change feed or supplement unless they are struggling & looking sickly. If this happens they get 27% turkey starter until they start to feel better.
What do you do to prepare for emergencies during molting?
I have hospital cages that I can set up for any that are struggling with their molt. Also have the means to provide supportive care (weighing, tube feeding, & subcutaneous fluids).
 
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Molting birds have a certain look, though molting birds can have parasites too. When in doubt, check them for parasites.

Mine all get a 20% pellet, so no need to change feed or supplement unless they are struggling & looking sickly. If this happens they get 27% turkey starter until they start to feel better.

I have hospital cages that I can set up for any that are struggling with their molt. Also have the means to provide supportive care (weighing, tube feeding, & subcutaneous fluids).
My "oldest" day-old chick is a smallish hen now and completed her molt leaving her gorgeous but skinny and weak. I thought she needed deworming, but was talked out of it by a local chicken hobbyist who suggested I watch her because molting is hard on hens.

i placed her in a kennel for two weeks, the second week with her favorite sister and she's finally back in gen pop. She's gained weight, has a rosy comb and is still a bit skinny. It was her first molt, so I had no comparison.

I'm feeding 20-22% feed and am frustrated at how low the protein in layer feed. I order some and buy some locally. The other "moms" in the flock are at various stages of molting but not losing weight or naked anywhere.

I think I'll keep them on higher protein feed all year. Crevecoeurs aren't prone to fatty liver. They were traditionally table birds subject to gavage.
 
Molt in my coop has a lot of feathers. So many feathers. Parasites are usually plucked feathers for my coop. I'm about to put a saddle on my coop Roo - for the first time the ladies will not leave his saddle feathers alone.
I have 1 Roo, poor boy never has his beautiful long tail feathers, I suspect 1 hen in particular keeps plucking them out...but he let's her!
 
My roo has lost his sickle feathers. He looked silly when there was only 1 feather, but he looks even sillier now.

I have seen some of the hens preen, then fluff and shake themselves, and leave a bunch of feathers behind. I also see white flecks on their feathers, like dandruff, from the feather sheaths.
 

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