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Hope that was helpful. Welcome to BYC!
Hope that was helpful. Welcome to BYC!
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Totally new: Planning coop would like opinions and ideas
- Thread starter Underwhere
- Start date
1. What exactly goes inside of a coop? Is it just a wide open space and then some nesting boxes? I see other people's designs and am not sure why they designed certain things.
There are no hard and fast rules as to what goes in a coop. A lot of different things go into that decision. Climate, space, management techniques, number of chickens, flock make-up, many others. To thrive, a chicken needs food, water, protection from the elements, and protection from predators. You can provide those many different ways. As a minimum for the type of situation you have, I think your coop needs to provide a roost for the chickens so they can be safely locked up at night, safe from the elements and safe from predators. You probably want the nest box in the coop with that set-up. Food and water can go in or out of the coop. People do it both ways.
1a. What is a "roost"?
Chickens like to sleep as high as they can. It is instinctive as a way to be safer from predators, coming from originally sleeping in trees outside. If you put the roosts higher than anything else you do not want them sleeping in or on, they will sleep up there instead of sleeping in their poop. They do poop a lot while sleeping. Mainly what you are doing is trying to keep them from sleeping in the nest box. You don't want poopy eggs.
2. Why are nesting boxes in other coops always located halfway up the coop? Is it a problem to put them on the bottom like I have planned for mine?
Chickens don't care that much how high a nest box is. Some people put them on the floor. Some people put them at varying heights. Some considerations: A nest on the floor will get a lot of trash scratched into it. It will stay cleaner if you raise it a bit. A nest box that is high enough so the chickens can easily get under it will not count against the area of your coop available for the chickens. Chickens are basically ground dwelling birds. As far as space requirements, ground level is all that matters. If they are raised a bit but not high enough, the chickens will scratch the bedding under there but not go under there and scratch it back out, so you lose the space anyway. Some people, especially if they have a bad back, put the nest boxes up high so they don't have to bend over to get the eggs.
3. The coop and run are located on soil that was going to be used for a garden. It's not dirt. Is this an issue?
As long as it will drain and not stay wet, that should not be an issue. They will eat anything that dares sprout and will scratch dust bathing holes in it, so it will not look pretty. You might want to consider putting coarse sand in there if it stays wet to help it drain, but I really would not expect that to be an issue with it already raised like that.
4. Exactly how noisy are the chickens going to be? I have neighbors on the other side of the wall maybe 30 ft away.
Don't get a rooster. They will crow. The hens will cackle when they lay an egg and at other times, so your neighbors will hear them. I'd suggest talking to your neighbors ahead of time. Maybe offer them a few eggs?
5. I was planning on covering both the coop and the entire run with a roof. Is this necessary? I live in the Northeast and it snows. It will also block a lot of light. Is that an issue? There are trees around and it is shady.
I think covering it to keep the rain and snow out is a great idea. Don't forget about the snow load and make your roof plenty strong. You want to keep the coop and run dry, otherwise it will stink. A roof that diverts the water away from you run is a tremendous benefit. Most chickens don't like snow or wind. If you cover it and block it so the snow and wind does not blow in, it makes your run available year round. Chickens usually do well in cold weather. They are wearing a perfectly-fitting custom-made down coat after all. If you can keep the snow and wind out, you will probably find they are outside enjoying the run most of your winter days.
6. I read about people putting in removable floors. Is that sort of like a false floor? I can pull out the entire bottom of the coop to clean it and there would just be a gigantic hole in the bottom?
You have to plan your poop management. There are a lot of different strategies to deal with it. In that type of coop, I think it is almost a requirement that you have real good access to be able to open a door or a wall and be able to reach inside to scoop out the poop and bedding. Many people have a droppings board. That is a board under the roost to catch the droppings. They do poop a lot when on the roosts. If you remove the droppings, say by scraping them off the board into a pan, your bedding lasts a lot longer. Or some people use some sort of droppings pan that can slide out and be emptied. Lots of different strategies. Those droppings are great for a compost pile, by the way.
7. Should I make this coop multi-level? I'm not sure why.
I'm not sure why you would. You are really not going to increase the living area that much since they are ground dwelling birds, and you might make some areas that poop can build up and be hard to get to for cleaning. If you can overcome the cleaning access problems, having the roost up high with a droppings board to protect the feeder/waterer underneath may be a fairly efficient use of space.
8. How many windows should I put in this thing? Are the hens going to have an issue with too much light/too little light?
You might get a lot of different opinions on this one. I like to have at least one window so they can see to get to bed and get around in the coop. The nest box itself needs to be fairly dark as they are more comfortable laying in a secluded place, but they cannot see in the dark. They need enough light to be able to see. They don't need a whole lot of light but I think they need some. Be careful of the greenhouse effect. Even in New England you can cook your chickens in the summer if you are not careful, but the extra solar heat in winter is nice. Always tradeoffs.
9. I saw someone had hooked up some automatic door opener/closer. Do the birds need to be in the coop at night with a locked door or can they manage by themselves in the run? (Provided it is secure from animals)
It is harder to make a run predator-proof than a coop. I always recommend locking them up at night for safety. Even if you live in an urban area, you have a lot of predators such as dogs, raccoons, and possums. Probably several others. They have all night to figure out how to get into a run.
Sounds like you are in an urban/suburban area. Check your local laws about keeping chickens. Before you invest time, energy and money in chickens you need to know if you are legal.
I'd suggest you read these two articles. Pat is very good about these topics.
Pats Ventilation
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-VENTILATION
Pats Winter Coop Temperatures
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-winter-coop-temperatures
Why are many coops raised?
It makes the area under the coop available to the chickens. The more space chickens have the less likely you are to have problems with them.
It gives them shelter from rain and snow, plus a shady spot.
It gives you a protected place to feed and water them if you elect to feed and water outside the coop. The feed needs to be kept dry. This is often a great place for that. The water does not necessarily need to stay dry, but some people hang their waterers. This gives you a convenient place for the hook.
It raises it to a height that it is easier to clean without bending over or getting on your knees.
Remember, if you raise it, you will probably have to get under there sometime to retrieve eggs, collect a sick or injured chicken, get a feeder that they have scratched under there in the most inaccessible place. It is always something. I suggest you consider access to all points under there without having to crawl in chicken poop. Yours may be small enough it is not a problem if you can get to all sides, maybe with a rake. Just a suggestion.
Good luck!
There are no hard and fast rules as to what goes in a coop. A lot of different things go into that decision. Climate, space, management techniques, number of chickens, flock make-up, many others. To thrive, a chicken needs food, water, protection from the elements, and protection from predators. You can provide those many different ways. As a minimum for the type of situation you have, I think your coop needs to provide a roost for the chickens so they can be safely locked up at night, safe from the elements and safe from predators. You probably want the nest box in the coop with that set-up. Food and water can go in or out of the coop. People do it both ways.
1a. What is a "roost"?
Chickens like to sleep as high as they can. It is instinctive as a way to be safer from predators, coming from originally sleeping in trees outside. If you put the roosts higher than anything else you do not want them sleeping in or on, they will sleep up there instead of sleeping in their poop. They do poop a lot while sleeping. Mainly what you are doing is trying to keep them from sleeping in the nest box. You don't want poopy eggs.
2. Why are nesting boxes in other coops always located halfway up the coop? Is it a problem to put them on the bottom like I have planned for mine?
Chickens don't care that much how high a nest box is. Some people put them on the floor. Some people put them at varying heights. Some considerations: A nest on the floor will get a lot of trash scratched into it. It will stay cleaner if you raise it a bit. A nest box that is high enough so the chickens can easily get under it will not count against the area of your coop available for the chickens. Chickens are basically ground dwelling birds. As far as space requirements, ground level is all that matters. If they are raised a bit but not high enough, the chickens will scratch the bedding under there but not go under there and scratch it back out, so you lose the space anyway. Some people, especially if they have a bad back, put the nest boxes up high so they don't have to bend over to get the eggs.
3. The coop and run are located on soil that was going to be used for a garden. It's not dirt. Is this an issue?
As long as it will drain and not stay wet, that should not be an issue. They will eat anything that dares sprout and will scratch dust bathing holes in it, so it will not look pretty. You might want to consider putting coarse sand in there if it stays wet to help it drain, but I really would not expect that to be an issue with it already raised like that.
4. Exactly how noisy are the chickens going to be? I have neighbors on the other side of the wall maybe 30 ft away.
Don't get a rooster. They will crow. The hens will cackle when they lay an egg and at other times, so your neighbors will hear them. I'd suggest talking to your neighbors ahead of time. Maybe offer them a few eggs?
5. I was planning on covering both the coop and the entire run with a roof. Is this necessary? I live in the Northeast and it snows. It will also block a lot of light. Is that an issue? There are trees around and it is shady.
I think covering it to keep the rain and snow out is a great idea. Don't forget about the snow load and make your roof plenty strong. You want to keep the coop and run dry, otherwise it will stink. A roof that diverts the water away from you run is a tremendous benefit. Most chickens don't like snow or wind. If you cover it and block it so the snow and wind does not blow in, it makes your run available year round. Chickens usually do well in cold weather. They are wearing a perfectly-fitting custom-made down coat after all. If you can keep the snow and wind out, you will probably find they are outside enjoying the run most of your winter days.
6. I read about people putting in removable floors. Is that sort of like a false floor? I can pull out the entire bottom of the coop to clean it and there would just be a gigantic hole in the bottom?
You have to plan your poop management. There are a lot of different strategies to deal with it. In that type of coop, I think it is almost a requirement that you have real good access to be able to open a door or a wall and be able to reach inside to scoop out the poop and bedding. Many people have a droppings board. That is a board under the roost to catch the droppings. They do poop a lot when on the roosts. If you remove the droppings, say by scraping them off the board into a pan, your bedding lasts a lot longer. Or some people use some sort of droppings pan that can slide out and be emptied. Lots of different strategies. Those droppings are great for a compost pile, by the way.
7. Should I make this coop multi-level? I'm not sure why.
I'm not sure why you would. You are really not going to increase the living area that much since they are ground dwelling birds, and you might make some areas that poop can build up and be hard to get to for cleaning. If you can overcome the cleaning access problems, having the roost up high with a droppings board to protect the feeder/waterer underneath may be a fairly efficient use of space.
8. How many windows should I put in this thing? Are the hens going to have an issue with too much light/too little light?
You might get a lot of different opinions on this one. I like to have at least one window so they can see to get to bed and get around in the coop. The nest box itself needs to be fairly dark as they are more comfortable laying in a secluded place, but they cannot see in the dark. They need enough light to be able to see. They don't need a whole lot of light but I think they need some. Be careful of the greenhouse effect. Even in New England you can cook your chickens in the summer if you are not careful, but the extra solar heat in winter is nice. Always tradeoffs.
9. I saw someone had hooked up some automatic door opener/closer. Do the birds need to be in the coop at night with a locked door or can they manage by themselves in the run? (Provided it is secure from animals)
It is harder to make a run predator-proof than a coop. I always recommend locking them up at night for safety. Even if you live in an urban area, you have a lot of predators such as dogs, raccoons, and possums. Probably several others. They have all night to figure out how to get into a run.
Sounds like you are in an urban/suburban area. Check your local laws about keeping chickens. Before you invest time, energy and money in chickens you need to know if you are legal.
I'd suggest you read these two articles. Pat is very good about these topics.
Pats Ventilation
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-VENTILATION
Pats Winter Coop Temperatures
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-winter-coop-temperatures
Why are many coops raised?
It makes the area under the coop available to the chickens. The more space chickens have the less likely you are to have problems with them.
It gives them shelter from rain and snow, plus a shady spot.
It gives you a protected place to feed and water them if you elect to feed and water outside the coop. The feed needs to be kept dry. This is often a great place for that. The water does not necessarily need to stay dry, but some people hang their waterers. This gives you a convenient place for the hook.
It raises it to a height that it is easier to clean without bending over or getting on your knees.
Remember, if you raise it, you will probably have to get under there sometime to retrieve eggs, collect a sick or injured chicken, get a feeder that they have scratched under there in the most inaccessible place. It is always something. I suggest you consider access to all points under there without having to crawl in chicken poop. Yours may be small enough it is not a problem if you can get to all sides, maybe with a rake. Just a suggestion.
Good luck!
Quote:
On THIS site, there are no stupid questions.
On THIS site, there are no stupid questions.
I have a 2 level garden which isn't being used. I was thinking of using the lower level to house the coop and the run.
Sounds like a good plan.
Sounds like a good plan.
Here is the design:
The large grayish panel (3 car garage) is where I'd like to harvest the eggs from. The coop is 5 feet long and 3.5 wide. I forget how tall it is.
That's about 15 square foot. The space you need INSIDE ALL depends on how many and what weight your hens are.
The large grayish panel (3 car garage) is where I'd like to harvest the eggs from. The coop is 5 feet long and 3.5 wide. I forget how tall it is.
That's about 15 square foot. The space you need INSIDE ALL depends on how many and what weight your hens are.
The square garden area it is on is 12x12.
The entire garden area is 1.5 feet off the ground.
The bottom of the coop is 2.5 feet off the ground and is level with the higher garden plot.
The fence behind is 6 feet high but angles downwards.
In the run each bird needs approximately 10 square foot, and less, if you own bantams, 144 square is a good sized run.
Check out patandchickens pages to help with mud in your run, ventilation in your coop, etc.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-VENTILATION
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-fix-a-muddy-run
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/vie mperatures
The entire garden area is 1.5 feet off the ground.
The bottom of the coop is 2.5 feet off the ground and is level with the higher garden plot.
The fence behind is 6 feet high but angles downwards.
In the run each bird needs approximately 10 square foot, and less, if you own bantams, 144 square is a good sized run.
Check out patandchickens pages to help with mud in your run, ventilation in your coop, etc.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-VENTILATION
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-fix-a-muddy-run
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/vie mperatures
So I have a ton of questions and some are so basic I don't think they are discussed in here. I appreciate any feedback and/or opinions. I want to do this right the first time around.
Don't we ALL!!
Don't we ALL!!
1. What exactly goes inside of a coop?
The chickens, nest boxes, roosts, waterer and feeder.
The chickens, nest boxes, roosts, waterer and feeder.
1a. What is a "roost"?
Birds feel more secure when they can sleep off of the ground. Most folks make roosts out of 2 x 4's that have the edges shaved smooth. The birds prefer to "sit down" on the roosts and sleep there. The top hens get the best spots, which are usually the highest roosts.
Birds feel more secure when they can sleep off of the ground. Most folks make roosts out of 2 x 4's that have the edges shaved smooth. The birds prefer to "sit down" on the roosts and sleep there. The top hens get the best spots, which are usually the highest roosts.
2. Why are nesting boxes in other coops always located halfway up the coop? Is it a problem to put them on the bottom like I have planned for mine?
Nestboxes can be floor level, but you'll want to use bedding, and it will get into the nestboxes and can make your eggs dirty. THAT's why they are put higher. Usually, your birds won't soil the nest boxes.
Nestboxes can be floor level, but you'll want to use bedding, and it will get into the nestboxes and can make your eggs dirty. THAT's why they are put higher. Usually, your birds won't soil the nest boxes.
3. The coop and run are located on soil that was going to be used for a garden. It's not dirt. Is this an issue?
Dirt is fine, but, again, look at patandchickens pages, above.
Dirt is fine, but, again, look at patandchickens pages, above.
4. Exactly how noisy are the chickens going to be? I have neighbors on the other side of the wall maybe 30 ft away.
Depends on the breed. ALL hens are much quieter than roosters, and roosters are usually the reason why your neighbors will complain.
Depends on the breed. ALL hens are much quieter than roosters, and roosters are usually the reason why your neighbors will complain.
5. I was planning on covering both the coop and the entire run with a roof. Is this necessary?
A roof keeps predators like hawks, owls, and even raccoons from eating your birds, so, yeah, you need one.
A roof keeps predators like hawks, owls, and even raccoons from eating your birds, so, yeah, you need one.
I live in the Northeast and it snows. It will also block a lot of light. Is that an issue? There are trees around and it is shady.
Shade is great in the summer, less shade in nice in the winter. Sunlight is important, but blazing hot sunlight is uncomfortable for them.
Shade is great in the summer, less shade in nice in the winter. Sunlight is important, but blazing hot sunlight is uncomfortable for them.
6. I read about people putting in removable floors. Is that sort of like a false floor? I can pull out the entire bottom of the coop to clean it and there would just be a gigantic hole in the bottom?
Once you build your coop you aren't going to WANT to remove the floor. Most people here either paint their floor numerous coats of exterior paint OR glue vinyl remnants on the floor. Everybody should use bedding on their coop floors and MUST use bedding if they use vinyl, because vinyl is slick.
Once you build your coop you aren't going to WANT to remove the floor. Most people here either paint their floor numerous coats of exterior paint OR glue vinyl remnants on the floor. Everybody should use bedding on their coop floors and MUST use bedding if they use vinyl, because vinyl is slick.
7. Should I make this coop multi-level? I'm not sure why.
That could work. Birds have hollow bones, and that enables chickens to flutter. A multi-level coop won't bother them at all.
That could work. Birds have hollow bones, and that enables chickens to flutter. A multi-level coop won't bother them at all.
8. How many windows should I put in this thing? Are the hens going to have an issue with too much light/too little light?
Windows are more important for ventilation that for sunlight. Read this article about open-front chicken houses and ventilation.
http://www.nortoncreekpress.com/fresh-air-poultry-houses2.html
Windows are more important for ventilation that for sunlight. Read this article about open-front chicken houses and ventilation.
http://www.nortoncreekpress.com/fresh-air-poultry-houses2.html
9. I saw someone had hooked up some automatic door opener/closer. Do the birds need to be in the coop at night with a locked door or can they manage by themselves in the run? (Provided it is secure from animals)
Only if you want to be sure that you have birds the next morning. I live in the country, on the west street of a tiny town, and I have fewer predators that either people on a big farm OR people who live in town. Raccoons (evil devils that pry open way too many things!), foxes, coyotes, somebody's wandering dog--lots of predators, and, as we know, EVERYBODY loves CHICKEN!! Also, I'm not big on free-ranging birds. If you want to do that, next year make a "chicken tractor."
Only if you want to be sure that you have birds the next morning. I live in the country, on the west street of a tiny town, and I have fewer predators that either people on a big farm OR people who live in town. Raccoons (evil devils that pry open way too many things!), foxes, coyotes, somebody's wandering dog--lots of predators, and, as we know, EVERYBODY loves CHICKEN!! Also, I'm not big on free-ranging birds. If you want to do that, next year make a "chicken tractor."
Any other convenience tips would be great.
Store your feed in a brand new STEEL garbage can, and don't store it inside of the coop, unless you create a separate closet just for supplies. Keep the lid on, or else a mouse will surprise you the next day.
Store your feed in a brand new STEEL garbage can, and don't store it inside of the coop, unless you create a separate closet just for supplies. Keep the lid on, or else a mouse will surprise you the next day.
Wow, look at all the wonderful answers you have gotten!
One thing - can you build the nesting box so that it protrudes into your garage? That way, it won't take up any floor space, and you can open it up from inside the garage. Notice I say it. If you only have 4 hens, you only need one box. I'd suggest a community box. Our birds have liked our community boxes for years. They are 4 ft long, and 1 ft for all the other dimensions. They have one opening at the end, and it is kind of like a little tunnel.
One thing - can you build the nesting box so that it protrudes into your garage? That way, it won't take up any floor space, and you can open it up from inside the garage. Notice I say it. If you only have 4 hens, you only need one box. I'd suggest a community box. Our birds have liked our community boxes for years. They are 4 ft long, and 1 ft for all the other dimensions. They have one opening at the end, and it is kind of like a little tunnel.
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