Two incubator hatches in a row with less than 1/3 success, WHY?

Discussion in 'Incubating & Hatching Eggs' started by hoog, May 8, 2011.

  1. hoog

    hoog Songster

    Two incubator hatches in a row with less than 1/3 success, WHY?

    I have had two incubator hatches in a row with less than 1/3 success. I am using the octagon 24 Advanced EX. I bought the eggs from two reputable sellers on BYC. One set was cochins the other duff orpingtons.

    The first set I didn’t candle or touch at all. The second set I candled before lockdown. Five of the 27 eggs in the second set had not developed at all the other 22 had a clear air sac. I tired humidity at 50/60 and 55/65 the temperature a steady at 99.6 (edit corrected I use 99.6). The eggs in the second hatch were laid on their sides.

    Can anyone tell me why I’ve had such poor hatches?
    Last edited: May 8, 2011

  2. peepswiththepoof

    peepswiththepoof Songster

    May 19, 2010
    Rougemont, NC
    For starters, your temp should be steady at 99.5.
  3. al6517

    al6517 Real Men can Cook

    May 13, 2008
    Quote:X2 yeah 95 is way too low.
  4. hoog

    hoog Songster

    Quote:X2 yeah 95 is way too low.

    I put 95.6 I meant 99.6 That is what I used for both sets. I can't set it at 99.5 on the incubator so it's been 99.6.

    I see your from elgin, that is pretty close to Faxon.
    Last edited: May 8, 2011
  5. storminstaffs

    storminstaffs Songster

    Aug 7, 2008
    Durham, UK
    were you using 50/60 humidity in the first 18 days if so i think that's abit high, 45 is good for the first 18 days and than 65 for lockdown, i've got the octagon 24 advanced EX with humidity pump and that's what works best for me plus it's what the instructions recommend

  6. peepswiththepoof

    peepswiththepoof Songster

    May 19, 2010
    Rougemont, NC
    Did you let your eggs rest before setting? Shipping is really hard on eggs as it is, so it might have nothing to do with your incubation methods and more to do with the fact that they were shipped.

    Also, I only run my humidity around 35-40% for the first 18 days in my Octagon 20 Ecos, and I've had a lot of success thus far.
  7. puredelite

    puredelite Songster

    I am not familiar with your brand of 'bator so can't help in that department but as you are probably aware some times shipped eggs just don't have a high percentage hatch rate. They may be expertly wrapped and packaged but they are not handled by the USPS any differently than any other package that moves thru the mail. The packages are subjected to sometimes extreme heat or cold that is always a factor in hatchabilty. Not to even mention being tossed around for several days. I have had some clutches of 14-15 shipped eggs and only hatched a single chick! Next clutch of eggs from my farm set in the same bator approx. 80% hatched. It can get very frustrating.... At least you are in the right place to get some very helpful tips on having better results. Hang in there!
  8. milakegrl

    milakegrl Chirping

    Jan 19, 2011
    UP of MI
    I am NOT an "expert". I'm just trying to wade through all the info and pick the best way to have a good experience. I am not hatching eggs to make money. I am only on my first complete hatch using a non-homemade incubator (my homemade bator=bad news). Should be popping out on Tuesday. I just candled (lots of movement and veins) and I'm having the best outlook so far this time. This is the info I've been going by: - Read first! Temp & humidity help - excellent page! - helps you figure out lockdown/hatch - will help you with the temp-remember take the temp in the right place do to thermo layering. I take the temp with the thermo I got with my bator, it has a piece of clear plastic that rests nicely on TOP of the eggs. I set my bator by this one, and an aquarium thermo resting next to it, at 102-104F. - candling pics. I can't help myself but if I could I would only candle day 10 & day 18. Remember the eggbryo is very fragile before day 10. If you don't see movement, look for veins after day 10.

    I get the eggs home (all of mine are shipped) and rest at room temp with the fat end up for 12 hours. Then into the bator on their sides and don't turn for 48 hours. I don't have the post for where I got this info but letting them rest may help with detached air cells (also, I read not to throw out eggs with detached air cells as some people have had them hatch) and it goes along with my next piece of controversial advice....
    I've only been turning once a day. They were already bopped around in the mail and I don't want to toughen the membranes anymore. I helped a chick hatch last time and the membrane was incredibly tough, dry and gross. The giant chick is still with me and healthy but would not have made it out without intervention. I'd rather not do it again. If you need it, here is help with that:

    Good luck! Happy hatching!
    Last edited: May 8, 2011
  9. pascopol

    pascopol Songster

    Jan 6, 2009
    Tampa Bay
    Quote:Read this:

    Based on my 8 years experience hatching with 4 different types of bators.

    But I do not claim to be an "expert"

    My latest way of hatching process was inspired by commercial hatcheries practices.

    Don't you think they (commercials) have a point with 1000"s of $$$$ riding of their hatching ideas?

    Most of hatching failures come from:

    1) Improper temperatuere (faulty thermometer) or too much temp fluctuation (spikes in styrobators or low quality bators) or both.

    2) Inproper humidity during incubating and hatching process.

    Needs to be around 50% for incubating and as high as you can get it at hatch time (70% or more)

    edited for trolling
    Last edited by a moderator: May 8, 2011

  10. chickenfeverforever

    chickenfeverforever Songster

    Apr 18, 2011
    Quote:Just because the eggs were bought from reputable sellers, doesnt mean the eggs were not scrambled by the post office. You said yourself you didnt even candle the first set at all. Who knows how many of those eggs were runined before you even set them. If they had floating air cells, they were never going to hatch. I just got 12 eggs and every single one is runined by the post office and NONE will hatch. Reputable seller with great packing too.

    Next, Not all Brinseas actually come set to the right temp. Both my Ecos arrived at 104 degrees so I had to set both of them. My Advanced was a steady 99.6 but I have since learned its too low because my hatches are several days late so I have increased it to 100 degrees. Are you using a seperate thermometer to check the temp?

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