Using Dremel for chicken beak?

[Chikenux]

Hi all,
So I just finished my chicken Run and let the birds out for the first time and there are 2 coops attach to the run and the Wyandotte has started pecking on the small bantam polish chicks and full grown Rhode Island Red. I don't want to hurt the chickens and the Wyandotte's are really pecking on the other chickens. Would using a Dremel be appropriate? I mainly use it for my dogs nail but I would like to soften their beaks for now so I can get thru the pecking process.

 

[NatJ]

A chicken's beak is a lot like a dog's toenail: has a quick inside, and grows longer throughout the life of the animal.

So if you just round the end and don't damage the quick, I would expect it to be fine. And they chickens' beaks will sharpen up again with time, just from the way they naturally rub the beak against things.

 

[rosemarythyme]

While it may not hurt if you're just rounding off the outside edge of the beaks, what you're proposing isn't a magic fix for pecking order issues.

Assuming the birds have all been in contact with each other before (not sure, you mentioned adding a run but not that any birds were new?) you'd be better off providing more clutter and/or more feeders to reduce tension in the flock.

 

[aart]

Would using a Dremel be appropriate?

IMO...NO.
Imagine getting it's tongue caught on the grinder wheel.
....and as others have said, it's not the answer to pecking issues.

Here's some tips about......
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

 

[Ridgerunner]

Would using a Dremel be appropriate?

In my opinion I'm also against it. I don't think it is going to solve your integration problems, it will just make it harder for your Wyandotte to eat. I'd try conventional methods first.

I don't know what you have done up to this point to get them used to each other, some information of what you have done with them to prepare for integration might help with suggestions. Photos of your set-up could be invaluable. Knowing how many chickens you have might help. Knowing ages could be very beneficial.

 

[Chikenux]

While it may not hurt if you're just rounding off the outside edge of the beaks, what you're proposing isn't a magic fix for pecking order issues.

Assuming the birds have all been in contact with each other before (not sure, you mentioned adding a run but not that any birds were new?) you'd be better off providing more clutter and/or more feeders to reduce tension in the flock.

The chickens were in different coops and I just finished the run yesterday. I let them out yesterday and the pecking order begun, this morning I added more feeders and waterers and looks like they are getting along. Yes you are right no magic fix but just to soften the blow so the chickens won't bleed and get infection.

 

[Chikenux]

IMO...NO.
Imagine getting it's tongue caught on the grinder wheel.
....and as others have said, it's not the answer to pecking issues.

Here's some tips about......
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

Yes I know it would not fix the problem but at least soften the blow so they don't bleed. I already have multiple feeders and waterers. Also I have 2 coops for them to hide on and they are always open. I also give them scratch feed once a day maybe 2 pounds worth. One of my friend here has a lot of chickens and he has to kill a few chicks that got pecked too much, I don't want to do that but I'll keep an eye out see how it goes.

 

[aart]

Yes I know it would not fix the problem but at least soften the blow so they don't bleed. I already have multiple feeders and waterers. Also I have 2 coops for them to hide on and they are always open. I also give them scratch feed once a day maybe 2 pounds worth. One of my friend here has a lot of chickens and he has to kill a few chicks that got pecked too much, I don't want to do that but I'll keep an eye out see how it goes.

If you feel you must dull the points of beaks, use and emery board.

How many birds(and ages) in how much space(in feet by feet)?
Pics would really help here.

What all and how exactly are you feeding?
Seems like a lot of scratch.

 

[Chikenux]

If you feel you must dull the points of beaks, use and emery board.

How many birds(and ages) in how much space(in feet by feet)?
Pics would really help here.

What all and how exactly are you feeding?
Seems like a lot of scratch.

Dumor 20% starter they are 8 weeks old some 5 weeks old and 4 20 week old in a 10 x 20ft run and their coops are 4x7 (2 coops)

 

[FloorCandy]

I had a quail that had a beak that would often overgrow, she was blind and didn’t rub it on the brick like the rest of her friends, the dremel worked great for this. As far as the pecking, even rounding the tip is not going to make that much of a difference, they may just peck harder if they aren’t getting the result they wanted. I think some boredom breakers might help redirect them. What is the size difference between the 5 week olds and 20 week olds? Are they all the same breed? Who is doing the pecking,the bigger ones?