Washingtonians Come Together! Washington Peeps

[drumstick diva]

Sheesh - maybe you could tape a note to the box that says "bring back the carton for a re-fill'.

 

[melissaG]

Roflmao, well I'm way out in the boondocks in Whatcom county, so having me run any store errands would probably be counterproductive for time saving

 

[melissaG]

yes please x2- hard to find folks who live in "the NW". (of course, ya gotta watch CR, he's a chicken stalker...)

*try this again, it didn't post it as a reply

*
Roflmao, well I'm way out in the boondocks in Whatcom county (outside of Deming), so having me run any store errands would probably be counterproductive for time saving

 

[VelvettFog]

Quote: Imperial or metric?

 

[Chicken Rustler]

Quote: I have the same problem of not getting cartons back. I just tell my egg customers that since I am not getting cartons back I will be forced to put their eggs in a plastic shopping bag. I hope they don't get broke and leak in the car. I have never had to use the bag trick so this must be rather effective!

 

[nikki1]

We give eggs to mom's co-workers, but they haven't returned their cartons. We used to have tons, but now we have none. We have about five full cartons, and the rest of the eggs go in a bowl in the fridge. I'd leave them on the counter but the cats love to be jerks by fishing the eggs out and rolling them off the counter. Mom prefers to put everything in the fridge anyway, so in they go. I just wish people would honor my polite request and give back the cartons when they're done. They're getting the eggs for free, so I think it's only fair.

Long story short, I need to buy some egg cartons.

Funny story...I have a student who sells eggs for spending money. He too was running out of cartons, and his mom told him he'd need to use some of his hard-earned money to purchase some. He was NOT happy about that, so he hatched a different plan. He went down to the lunchroom and spoke to the kind-hearted lunch ladies. Apparently he was very sweet and persuasive, because in a few days he had FAR too many cartons to take home in his backpack.

 

[Chicken Rustler]

Quote:

Good for him for getting resourceful !!!!

 

[Chicken Rustler]

OK it has been a while since I have been up on this soapbox. So I thought I would once again share this.

PLEASE IF you never read anything else I post please read this and remember it or copy and print if need be.


Coop lights. For anybody thinking about or with questions about using heat lamps PLEASE READ THIS. First let me say that for those of us in western WA & OR. We do not get enough cold weather to worry about heat for fully feathered birds. You only need to be concerned with heat if you have young chicks.
For ANY lights you use please make sure that the fixture is rated for the size of bulb/lamp you are using (or more). If you are going to use one of the common “heat lamps” they are most commonly 250 watt. DO NOT use a fixture with a rating of less than 250 watt. The cheap clamp on lights are not sufficient for this. You want a fixture with a ceramic base where the lamp screws in.
And here is my point. I have a friend who is also my FORMER feed supplier. She called me one day told me her barn had burned. She asked if I would haul the scrap metal and help clean up part of the mess. I was so shocked when I got there. This had been a barn about 60’ x 100’. The entire barn was gone. She also lost all of her breeding hogs including several pigs that had been paid for. She also lost the entire feed mill. When we started cleaning up and trying to find the cause. Everything pointed toward a heatlamp that was being used to keep pigs warm. While we were not able to determine if the fixture caught fire first and began dripping into the bedding or if the fixture fell into the bedding and then caught fire. Either way IF this had been a proper fixture and secured with jack chain or bare steel wire (tie wire or baling wire) there is a VERY good chance my friend would still have her barn, breeding hog business and grain/feed business.
SO again I ask that EVERYBODY using heat lights PLEASE make sure what you are using is safe!!! The best choice is the “brooder fixtures” with the ceramic base.
I post this in hopes of never having to see another person lose their buildings, animals and who knows what else due to using the wrong lighting equipment!!!
Rob

 

[Slinglings]

Hey guys! I just set up my farmette page on FB. It is a work in progress, but would love it if you would check it out and maybe "like" it.

Look up Fanciful Feathers Farmette
Thanks!

I liked it and also liked it with my business pages I am Urban Eggs, Slinglings, and Attached to Baby

 

[pbjls]

OK it has been a while since I have been up on this soapbox. So I thought I would once again share this.

PLEASE IF you never read anything else I post please read this and remember it or copy and print if need be.


Coop lights. For anybody thinking about or with questions about using heat lamps PLEASE READ THIS. First let me say that for those of us in western WA & OR. We do not get enough cold weather to worry about heat for fully feathered birds. You only need to be concerned with heat if you have young chicks.
For ANY lights you use please make sure that the fixture is rated for the size of bulb/lamp you are using (or more). If you are going to use one of the common “heat lamps” they are most commonly 250 watt. DO NOT use a fixture with a rating of less than 250 watt. The cheap clamp on lights are not sufficient for this. You want a fixture with a ceramic base where the lamp screws in.
And here is my point. I have a friend who is also my FORMER feed supplier. She called me one day told me her barn had burned. She asked if I would haul the scrap metal and help clean up part of the mess. I was so shocked when I got there. This had been a barn about 60’ x 100’. The entire barn was gone. She also lost all of her breeding hogs including several pigs that had been paid for. She also lost the entire feed mill. When we started cleaning up and trying to find the cause. Everything pointed toward a heatlamp that was being used to keep pigs warm. While we were not able to determine if the fixture caught fire first and began dripping into the bedding or if the fixture fell into the bedding and then caught fire. Either way IF this had been a proper fixture and secured with jack chain or bare steel wire (tie wire or baling wire) there is a VERY good chance my friend would still have her barn, breeding hog business and grain/feed business.
SO again I ask that EVERYBODY using heat lights PLEASE make sure what you are using is safe!!! The best choice is the “brooder fixtures” with the ceramic base.
I post this in hopes of never having to see another person lose their buildings, animals and who knows what else due to using the wrong lighting equipment!!!
Rob

when I got home last night there were almost one hundred posts I had missed, so this may have been inspired by something else, but with as close as I came to a fire I want to agree with CR. even if every thing is put together well things can and do go wrong. it is never worth it to cut corners on electric work.

I built all of our brood buildings and brooder boxes myself(ok dw's dad helped alot) we not only use the cermeriac bases, but also added thermostates to regulated temp and save electricity. our issue was an unrelated circuit breaker that failed without tripping. it was directly across from the main breaker in the sub panel and directly above the breakers for two of the buildings. they were the first to loose power and the start of my investigation. the breaker that failed melted and fused eight other breakers including the main to the panel. when moved to the off position the main was still hot. ths could have easily burned down the shop and or killed someone. I have not seen a breaker fail in this mannor before and I have said more than one thankyou prayer since discovering it. We had an angle watching over us.

the circuit tht failed had a ground fault in it that will be fixed and we will run continuity tests on all circuits as well as up grade all of the plugs for brooders and mill equipment and add new switches and a remote breaker for the mill circuit.