One spring, when the mountains of snow melted away, I found a mouse nest that had been buried in a snow bank, completely made of cigarette butts. No accounting for some critter's decorating skills.
SearsMom, I may sound like a broken record, but I don't think that double digging is the answer to your problem. My recommendation, for any soil type is to apply a heavy mulch as soon as possible, then you can fork the areas where you will be putting seeds or transplants to loosen the soil, but not turn it. You can throw it right over existing dead weed cover, live weed cover, or even sod with some modifications. If I had some nasty perennial weeds, I'd make a bit of an effort to manually remove them (never till them), but otherwise, mulch right over what ever happens to be there. I've seen deep mulch work in heavy wet clay soil, and in sandy soil. In both situations, it improves the soil over time, and without work. I can get into my garden a full month before any of my neighbors can, simply because I keep it mulched. It does not get water logged in the spring, the frost does not go as deep in the winter, does not dry out in the summer. I can prepare to plant just by sticking my garden fork in the soil along the marked row, rocking it forward and back, then moving down an other 12" and repeating. I can prepare a whole row for planting in about 5 minutes, or an entire bed in about 15 minutes. The worms will move in and transform the soil from the top down, the mulch will break down and provide a fertile tea every time it rains, the soil will remain nice and soft under the mulch.
SearsMom, I may sound like a broken record, but I don't think that double digging is the answer to your problem. My recommendation, for any soil type is to apply a heavy mulch as soon as possible, then you can fork the areas where you will be putting seeds or transplants to loosen the soil, but not turn it. You can throw it right over existing dead weed cover, live weed cover, or even sod with some modifications. If I had some nasty perennial weeds, I'd make a bit of an effort to manually remove them (never till them), but otherwise, mulch right over what ever happens to be there. I've seen deep mulch work in heavy wet clay soil, and in sandy soil. In both situations, it improves the soil over time, and without work. I can get into my garden a full month before any of my neighbors can, simply because I keep it mulched. It does not get water logged in the spring, the frost does not go as deep in the winter, does not dry out in the summer. I can prepare to plant just by sticking my garden fork in the soil along the marked row, rocking it forward and back, then moving down an other 12" and repeating. I can prepare a whole row for planting in about 5 minutes, or an entire bed in about 15 minutes. The worms will move in and transform the soil from the top down, the mulch will break down and provide a fertile tea every time it rains, the soil will remain nice and soft under the mulch.