What is to young to worm?

[mstricer]

Quote:
Hey Michelle,

I actually got it from my pet chicken.com, my bad, sorry. Here you go:


http://www.mypetchicken.com/catalog/chickens/WormGuard-Plus-2lb-bag-p778.aspx

There is no egg or meat withdrawl time either which is nice. You just mix it in theri food and they don't mind the taste at all.

Thank you for the info.

 

[Avalon1984]

You're welcome. I was about to order more but it looks like they are sold out right now

Hope this will help you too!

 

[wyododge]

We don't and will not worm. Worms are a symptom of a larger problem. Strong aggressively healthy birds will fight off diseases and parasites. We do use DE, but that is about it. No bleach, NO medication, lots of dirt, bacteria everywhere. If they get worms, and don't get over them, they are not healthy and will not survive. I certainly will not let one risk the rest of the flock, and will not go to great lengths to have one weak chicken in the flock that is a constant source for disease walk around. If they are weak, sick and infested, they die.

The strong survive, and replenish. That is Gods plan, not mine.

To answer the OP's question, the only time to worm is before they are out of the shell, and you are never allowed to pierce it to do so.

Just my opinion though...

 

[SteveBaz]

Quote:
Steve I'm so glad you chimed in, I was getting pretty beat up over this issue. How do you use your DE. I'm trying to stay as natural as possible. Most of the posts seem to believe you are a bad chicken owner if you don't. Even if I put sand in my run,and free range my chickens all day, so they are not standing in dirt, which is where round worms come from. I would love to hear from more of the others that are doing this organically.
Michele

I know I took a lot of heat from a long time post because there is no medical documentation to prove my point I posted findings from the University of Kentucky and other write-up from chicken ranches that do this;

http://wolfcreekranch1.tripod.com/defaq.html

NO right or wrong here but I read all the time, as a Disabled American Veteran I do not get out as much as others and so I read a ton. Sorry you are very misinformed.

This webpage addresses how and why we personally use diatomaceous earth 365 days/year and it helps to prevent repeated e-mails to others asking questions about how we use food grade diatomaceous earth. If you are interested in the manufacturers recommended feeding rates or general diatomaceous earth information, go to our: Diatomaceous Earth Facts, Information & Feeding Rates Page. http://wolfcreekranch1.tripod.com/defaq.html

At least fifty percent of our business is related to worm or parasite overloads in humans and animals OR the results of the chemical wormers that have now poisoned the human or animal and lowered/poisoned their immune system enough to cause disease.

FOOD GRADE DE & TAPEWORMS

When we take in feral rescue kittens that have freeways of fleas running around their tiny tummies, we dunk the kittens in a 5 gallon bucket of DE and smother them in it, put it in their litter boxes, and dust them with DE twice/week AND I feed the DE internally 1 heaping tsps. daily for tiny 1 to 2# kittens as we KNOW they will have tapeworms. Immediately thereafter and for about 2 weeks, they emit 30 to 40 tiny tape segments on the back of their hind end fur. Little by little, there are fewer and fewer tape segments seen, their pot bellies are gone, and their stools are normal. Within 2 to 3 weeks all the adult fleas are gone and no larvae exist.

IF we tried to bathe these feral rescues, they would KILL us and likely never come near a human again. It is our goal to adopt them out, so bathing is not an option. Most people don't want feral cats or kittens, most want friendly, social, healthy ones and the DE really helps us accomplish this painlessly.

We feed whole rabbits we buy from rabbitries that sell to the supermarket butchers to all our canines and felines. Rabbits are natural carriers of tapeworms. Before we began using DE in 1997, I would occassionally see tapes in the canines stools. I did the "messy" Juliette de Bairacli Levy worming - fasting 3 days prior to the full moon - castor oil and antiparasitic herbs and foods. It took care of the tapes, but was a HUGE mess to clean up the diarrhea. Since using DE regularly the past 8 years in everyone's food here, I have never seen a tape segment in anyones stool.

DE does need to be fed daily in adequate amounts - at least 30 to 45 days for tape worms and 90 days for lung worms.

WORMS AFFECTED BY DIATOMACEOUS EARTH:

Food grade DE eliminates roundworms, whipworms, pinworms, and hookworms within 7 days of being fed daily. Studies that advise this are on our DE FAQ page and elsewhere throughout the internet.

We always suggest feeding DE for a minimum of 30 days for roundworms, whipworms, or hookworms, due to their life cycle and needing to catch any hatching eggs, as DE does not kill eggs.

Lungworms, including hookworms that have migrated to the lungs for which upper respiratory symptoms would be seen - sneezing, coughing, nasal discharge, runny eyes, etc., take double the recommended daily DE dose for at least 90 days.

WHY FEED DIATOMACEOUS EARTH 365 DAYS A YEAR?

We use food grade diatomaceous earth (aka DE) daily, 365 days/year for numerous reasons. The animal and human health benefits food grade diatomaceous earth provides are outstanding. DE's ability to eliminate pests such as fleas, flies, etc. makes it an asset to every being's health - human, plant, or animal.

Since DE does double duty - inside the gut and then outside in the stool, it makes sense/cents to just feed it 365 days/year. It keeps fly loads down and can help eliminate them completely if fed regularly and used on the grounds, makes stools smell less, and sweeps bacteria and heavy metals out of the body. Plus of course, it eliminates internal worms and parasites which will lower feed and vet bills and help prevent disease.

It is our belief that worms and parasites are a major cause of all disease. ALL cancer and other dis-eased patients have worms. Therefore, by feeding food grade diatomaceous earth in adequate quantities daily, we know we have NO worms and therefore at least seventy percent of the chance of getting diseased goes right out the window.

USING FOOD GRADE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH FOR HUMANS

85 to 95% of the human population has worms and these worms are a major contributor to dis-ease. If your doctor said, here, take this chemical/poison wormer you give to your pet, would YOU take it?? If not, WHY on earth would you give it to your beloved companions??

The manufacturers recommended feeding rates for people is 1 heaping tablespoon daily. We take 2 tbsps. daily, simply because the RDA for 100 lb. dogs is 2 tbsps. and most of the humans here weigh 130 lbs. or more. Since DE won't hurt us and we know the DE has to come in contact with worms/parasites to eliminate them, a little more is better than not enough.

I recommend starting with 1 tbsp. daily and increasing as desired, after you are certain you aren't having heavy detox effects from the die off of worms.

Some human clients advise they use DE mixed with water and painted on their skin to eliminate parasites such as Helmith parasite infestations, Morgellon's disease, etc., and consume food grade diatomaceous earth daily. Apparently, painting the DE on the skin makes it easier to see the parasite eggs, plus it dehydrates any insects on the skin.

Food grade diatomaceous earth is excellent to help eliminate mite infestations on humans, pets, plants, and in the home and yard. This web page has been created, 12/12/06, because we have had many many calls from people who themselves, their homes, and yards are infested with mites that are eating at them. Some people have suffered from these mite infestations for over 10 years without effective treatments from physicians and chemical treatments. If you are one of these people that has suffered from mite, other bug/parasite infestations, or Morgellon's Disease please read the following and gain back your sanity and healthful life.

First, in an effort to save time and repetition realize there is a bunch of essential food grade diatomaceous earth information on our other diatomaceous earth webpages above.

This web page will NOT duplicate the information found in the web pages above, so please read the information on those webpages for more information about the health benefits and many uses of food grade diatomaceous earth.

Food grade diatomaceous earth is a natural powder that works in a purely physical/mechanical manner, not chemical and thus has no chemical toxicity. Best yet, parasites don't build up a tolerance/immunity to its chemical reaction, so rotation of wormers or chemical insecticides is unnecessary AND food grade DE has NO odor.

If you are dealing with a mite or bug infestation in your home, it is essential to treat the affected people, pets, and household all at the same time. Lightly sprinkle DE in household carpet, along floor baseboards, in pet bedding, under furniture, beneath couch and chair cushions, in closets, etc. Leave for 2-3+ days, then vacuum. Reapply regularly for the first month for severe infestations, as the parasite eggs hatch 10 days to 3 weeks after being laid by the host, so it is essential to keep up regular treatment to completely eliminate the infestation. Please do not get heavy handed with the DE in your carpet, as I have heard from one lady advising it causes problems with their vacuum when applied excessively.

Bed mites or bugs can be smothered with DE, by putting a plastic cover over your mattress, after lightly covering the mattress with DE and then zipping up the plastic cover and leaving it closed up for a few weeks.

Wash ALL clothing, bedding, and linens in hot water, preferably leaving these items in the hot water for 30 minutes.

BUGS AFFECTED BY DIATOMACEOUS EARTH

Ants, fire ants, caterpillars, cut worms, army worms, fleas, ticks, cockroaches, snails, spiders, termites, scorpions, silver fish, lice, mites, flies, centipedes, earwigs, slugs, aphids, Japanese beetles (grub stage), fruit flies, corn earworm, cucumber beetles, corn borer, sting bugs, squash vine borers, thrips, loopers, etc., etc.

A study done by ACRES, USA, Inc. advised that after 12 months of grain storage, the food grade diatomaceous earth treated material had 15 insects, compared to 4884 for malathion and 16,994 for untreated grain.

WHY DO I HAVE MITES?

Many people advise that they are the only ones in their household affected by a mite infestation. Their spouse and/or children are not affected or bothered by the mites, yet the mites are literally eating them alive. Some people advise they get a little relief from the itching and biting when they go to a friend's home, though the mites don't disappear while they are visiting their friend and the mites are NOT bothering the friend(s). WHY don't the mites bother everyone in the household?

Mites are on all of us: people, pets, plants, etc. We don't usually see them and most of us are not affected by them as we have reasonably strong, healthy immune systems. When our immune system is low, this gives way for the mites to take over and attempt to ruin our lives and make us miserable. Just as fleas prey on less healthy animals and mountain lions prey on the weaker, young or less healthy animals, and mites or borers prey on the trees and plants that are not as strong as they should be; mites prey on those of us who are not strong enough to fight them off.

For this reason, it is always important to boost the immune system of the being when dealing with any dis-ease - cancers, diabetes, parasite infestations, etc. There are many ways to help boost the immune system such as:

· Consume species appropriate nutrition. For people, this means forget the junk food and eat real food, plenty of fruits and veggies daily. Consider natural mineral supplementation in the form of chlorella, spirulina, kelp, etc.
· Get plenty of good daily exercise.
· Eliminate internal worms and parasites by taking food grade diatomaceous earth every day. This will help your body maximize the absorption from the nutrition you are eating, if worms are not sucking your blood and robbing you of the nutrients in your daily food.
· 100% New Zealand Colostrum is one of the best natural products that can help strengthen the immune system.
· Terminator Zapper's have benefited many of our mite infested customers, along with using food grade diatomaceous earth.

Things you can try to make you taste yucky to mites or other parasites:

· Consume 1 tsp. of apple cider vinegar in a glass of water, 3x/day.
· Consume raw garlic daily.
· 100% Pure MSM is an organic sulfur dietary supplement and may be useful for itching and inflammation and repelling parasites. MSM will also help quell itching and pain.

Other natural ways to kill mites:

Try 1/2 cup of olive oil, mixed with 15 to 20 drops of each of the following essential oils:
Tea Tree (anti-parasitic, antimicrobial)
Lavender (soothing, healing, antiseptic)
Cloves (anti-parasitic, kills parasite eggs, antimicrobial)

Rub this mixture into a small area of your skin that is bothered by mites. Test it in a small area to make sure you do not have an allergic reaction. If you are fine and you notice relief in that area, than apply a larger amount to a larger area of skin. This will smother the mites.

If you cannot make your own mixture, use our Certified Organic Mange & Parasite Oil.

Try the same mixture above without the olive oil and use 1/2 cup of apple cider vinegar. This can also be used to rinse your hair after washing, though do not completely rinse your hair clean with water or the antiparasite effects will be lost.

Mayonnaise by itself or mixed with a few drops of the above essential oils is good for mites or lice in the hair. Leave it on for a good half hour, then rinse well.

HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE TO GET RID OF THE MITES?

Every situation is a bit different, so giving a definitive time frame can be difficult. IF you start treating everything, your home, environment, yard, clothing, etc. ALL at the same time and continue for 3 to 4 weeks and are diligent, your mite infestation should be completely eliminated within 3 to 4 weeks.

IF, however, you do not treat everything at the same time, the task of eliminating them will become a constant nightmare and chore, as eggs will continue to hatch and infest you, your home, yard, automobile, etc.

For some, it is relatively simple to just dust the DE all over the household, consume it, dust or paint themselves with it, and immediately they notice they aren't itching as much. We do not recommend letting up with your mite elimination program, until you have completed 3 to 4 weeks of treatment, simply because you don't want them to return in greater numbers and drive you to insanity (which you are likely feeling already). Additionally, this is why it is VERY beneficial to work at boosting your immune system as well, so that the normal, everyday mites that inhabit all of our homes and yards are not troublesome to you anymore.

WHAT ARE MITES?

Information about: mites, lice, scabies, bed mite, harvest mite, tropical rat mite, grain mite, mold mite, house mite, itch mites, bird mites, chiggers, clove mites, straw itch mites, dust mites, and other household pests can be found at these websites:

Department of Etomology North Carolina Cooperative Extension - Mites that "Bug" People
Pied Piper - Mites
OSU - Mites Annoying Humans

 

[SteveBaz]

Quote:
Wow are you kidding? How would the chickens system fight off a parasite like worms? That's like the holly rollers or certain religions saying they won't go to the doctor for the sick kid bc they trust the Lord to take care of the problem and the kid dies bc of that very same belief. The Lord gave us a brain to use so he does not have to. We have science to help us and should use the things available to us and make it better if we can. Its are obligation as humans.

 

[Avalon1984]

My dad used to have chickens for many years and was the "plain" type. No deworming, no treament for fleas, chicks under a lightbulb, no fenced in run. We lost countless chickens before they even started to lay and many after that. No chicken ever lived longer than a year and a half. He just came over and couldn't believe the overall health of my flock. I now have him convinced that every little bit of maintenance helps. And after 15 years of no chickens, I have inspired him to have chickens again

 

[flowerchild59]

I used DE, kelp, cayenne, and flaxseeds daily as a supplement and my birds were still heavily infested with round worms. (and they were yound birds, not more that 6-8 months of age). I think DE as a preventive works well, but you still need to do yearly or twice yearly worming with medications. Otherwise, the bird does not thrive, the woms are being fed well at the expense of the poultry.
Granted, I am a big believer in natural remedies, but I also have the scientific side part of my brain as a nurse to read and make decisions for myself. I had to see the necropsy results myself on paper. It was worth it to me to sacrifice two birds to know what I was dealing with.

 

[Avalon1984]

Quote:
I don't know if there is any similarities but they are now finding out that using daily dewormers in horses actually enhances the problem because the worms become immune to it. So they are recommending to only deworm twice a year. Might be the same with the chickens? But not sure. Sorry about your loss.

 

[dawg53]

Quote:
I don't know if there is any similarities but they are now finding out that using daily dewormers in horses actually enhances the problem because the worms become immune to it. So they are recommending to only deworm twice a year. Might be the same with the chickens? But not sure. Sorry about your loss.

I dont know about horses, but chickens are not wormed daily. Rotating wormers solves the problem of worm resistance. Many people recommend ivermectin for treating mites, when in fact its primary purpose is a wormer. It's effectiveness as a wormer is practically useless due its overuse in chickens for killing mites. It is still effective against mites in chickens, but that is about it. This is why I always recommend sevin dust to treat mites, the coop included.

 

[wyododge]

Quote:
Through use of DE, pumpkin seeds, free ranging, good food and living in a non-sterilized environment they develop immune systems to keep things like that in check. I will not ever medicate an animal with 'drugs'. We have in the past, and the side affects are to great. We no longer vaccinate our cows (except those that are mandated by the state), or use Ivomec to worm them. We don't even give them antibiotic 7 or 5 way when the drop next to their mothers in the spring, as most ranchers do. You can see it in their eyes, they become dull and lethargic. The side effects are just to severe. Synthesized drugs kill a great many things, not just the bug you are after. We give our cows DE as well as lick tubs with enzymes to curtail blow flies eggs from hatching, fresh live water and ample space to roam and graze. We have lost one calf to disease in 9 years (2% death loss), our herd is healthy strong and robust, and so is our flock. If, god forbid, one is weak and becomes inundated with worms (or some other ailment) to a point at which DE and such will not work, I hate to say it, but that bird will die.

It is in no way similar to some crazy person who will not take a child to the doctor because 'God' will heal them. Those unfortunates, in my opinion, do not understand the word or blessings of God. I stated it is Gods Plan, meaning the strong are supposed to survive, and the weak will die. Death is not a bad thing, it is a part of life and I will do as much as I am able to extend that life for every one of the animals we care for. I also believe God gave us a brain to decide what is best, and what isn't. I believe that invasive drugs are not in the best interest of my family or my flock. I have not taken a drug in 9 years, and most likely wont unless there are sever circumstances. I do regularly see a doctor, as does my family.

I agree we have science, and should use what we can to help our herds and flocks, including recognizing when you have a sick animal that may not be able to overcome a disease or infection. In which cased the humane thing to do is to allow that animal to pass comfortably so it does not affect the rest of the herd/flock.

My obligation as a human is to care for and give our ENTIRE flock and heard(s) the tools they need to survive and provide food. One of those tools sometimes allowing one to die so that the rest may stay healthy and vibrant. I have no qualm whatsoever with allowing an animal to die if the only thing that will save them are invasive drugs that may only prolong an inevitability, or cause other problems with other life functions, it simply is not fair.

Would I isolate and treat the animal, certainly, but that treatment will never include synthesized drugs. That would be hypocritical since I will not take them myself. 7 years ago my lower GI was FULL of polyps (15 removed, scores left), lesions and bleeding ulcers. After years of eating properly, not taking any drugs, and generally living well, Things inside look like a 20 year old, I am 42. Coincidental, probably, but I will not risk me or my animals to a science (pharmaceuticals) I simply do not trust.

I am sorry you disagree, but I respect your knowledge and judgement, and very much appreciate your posts and input in this forum.