What % protein feed needed for 3rd year layers?

[Flame80]

I have mostly white leghorns and will be starting their third year laying. they presently are recovering from their 1st molt but...My feed prices are going up! I have been using Lone Star Brand 18% protein and they love it. 50# sack has gone to $19 a bag from around $14. I can find much cheaper feed at places like TSC BUT they are all only %16 protein. What do I need to start using at this age? Oh, by the way...I only use crumbles and NOT pellets. Thanks in advance.

 

[Egghead_Jr]

You'll be fine. Leghorns don't require the higher protein.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I'm one of the people who recommend higher protein feeds for our backyard flocks, as a general rule. That recommendation is NOT based on improved egg production (which is measurable, but insignificant) or larger egg size (again, measurable but insignificant) - in both cases, typically in the range of 2-3% - which may only equate to an extra 4 or 5 eggs for a third year quality layer over the course of the next 12 months.

I make that recommendation for improved condition of your birds overall, faster molting, somewhat greater resistance to pressures like disease, injury, age - because most backyard keepers think of their animals as pets, not producers, and are willing to invest a bit in hopes of achieving a longer life. The higher protein *also* helps compensate for the tendency of backyard owners to offer excessive low nutritional value and/or nutritionally imbalanced treats, and the fact that many aren't able to free range their birds successfully (ordinances, weather, pasture options, etc) in ways which benefit the bird's diet.

16% protein feed is adequate to their nutritional needs. A bird's dietary requirements tend to decline as they age. High quality, high nutrition feed is most needed in their formative months, less required in their most productive year to year and a half of adulthood, and then continues to fall off after that as egg production declines and the bird shifts fully into "maintenance" mode. Their calcium needs drop too - so depending on individual bird and breed, you can start to see signs of calcium build up in older hens, just as its seen in Roosters offered layer feed - only the build up takes considerably longer to become evident.

As with everything, there are no guarantees in life, and in this case, there are no hard numbers, either. Studies on birds beyond peak productive age are few, far between, and generally small sample size. Only you can assess whether a chance at a longer life is more valuable to you than the cost savings per bag of feed. Given replacement costs for leghorns, even factoring the time and feed investment to grow them up to adulthood, a $4 per bag differential adds up pretty quick. At $1 or $2, the question is a far closer one for most backyard owners.

 

[Acre4Me]

If cost is priority, go to the 16%. Leghorns tend to drop off in production after a couple years, but maybe you have a more productive strain.

You may want to consider flock rotation. Get new chicks, after two years, get rid of them. That spring (prior to getting rid of the older ones) raise more chicks.

We sell off our unwanted chickens in the fall so we don’t feed them through the winter, but we also buy new chicks in the spring bc kid shows chickens at the county fair and there is a category for young chickens, so we get chicks in the early spring so they are of sufficient age for fair.

We sell at a livestock auction in the general area. They hold auctions year round in specific dates.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

^^^ likewise. My birds are for production. Eggs for me and the wife, plus we sell some. Meat for the table (yes, I know how inefficient that is with dual purpose mutts). and I'm culling my way towards a landrace well suited for my climate and geography/plant life in hopes of selling chicks in the future. At the moment, its a money losing operation, but anyways...

I'm pretty constantly hatching, culling, and replacing birds at first adult molt with younger birds coming into their first season. With good quality layers, replacing between year two and three might be more effective for you - and you neededn't be hatching new replacements monthly - but its a common management practice because time has shown it effective for many owners in many situations over many many years.