What Rabbits Do You Have? Show Off Your Rabbits Here!

Coolest Rabbit Breed Out Of These?

  • Holland Lop

    Votes: 108 21.3%
  • English Spot

    Votes: 14 2.8%
  • American Fuzzy Lop

    Votes: 11 2.2%
  • Mini Rex/Rex

    Votes: 107 21.1%
  • New Zealand

    Votes: 94 18.6%
  • Polish

    Votes: 13 2.6%
  • English Lop

    Votes: 33 6.5%
  • Mini Satins/Satins

    Votes: 14 2.8%
  • Lionhead

    Votes: 112 22.1%

  • Total voters
    506
Thank you! Just wasn't sure if it would be a necessity.
Here in Louisiana, it is necessary, all my BYCer friends here use them, they gave me the idea last year when I desperate to cool my critters down.

The bottles do several things. My rabbits lie next to them, rub against them, and lick them.They love when I come out with fresh bottles and stay next to them. The chickens lean and rub against them. It does slightly cool the air and I have a fan that blows on them and cools the air more than just the bottles or just the fan alone.
 
Well, tried to find out the gender of my bunny, and it seem to be a she! Now I don't know if she's spayed or not, she seems to be over 6 months after having her for a bit, I don't think she's as young as I first thought.. Any way to tell??
 
1. Do any of you guys take your rabbits to the vets yearly?

That is an HRS promoted idea. Any vets listed on their website have agreed to promote their ideas including that of diet which will, in many cases creates a revolving door to your vets office - rabbit eats irregular diet, gets sick, goes to vet, prescribed meds, gets "better", goes off meds, keeps eating irregular diet, gets sick again, goes back to vet, gets more meds, rinse and repeat. I've worked w/HRS supporting rescues before and taken their rabbits to their highly praised vets. I was not too impressed w/any of them.

A really good rabbit vet is hard to find but they ARE out there. I do NOT take my rabbits to the vet yearly. I take them when needed. For instance, if I have a question about a current health issue that I cannot find the answer to (that occurs rarely), if pinpointing the problem requires equipment/testing that I don't have at home, or if they need meds that must be prescribed a vet (also, fairly rare).

2. what about neutering??

I'm a responsible rabbit owner. I do not let my rabbits out to breed willy nilly. If they're out, they're supervised. Why neuter? They don't get out at night and impregnate the neighborhood rabbits. lol For temperament reasons? I LOVE my intact bucks' and does' temperaments. Bucks are like male cats - big, goofy lovers. Does are level headed 90% - 100% of the time and only grunt when they are new mothers here.

3. Is it necessary?

No. A legitimate scientific study done in Japan showed that while a spayed rabbit has a less chance of getting uterine cancer than a non-breeding doe, it also showed that does bred on a regular schedule have the same chance of getting uterine cancers as a spayed rabbit. In other words, you might want to spay her if you are not going to breed her. My does are not at high risk of uterine cancers because they are a breeding program

I see no reason to neuter bucks unless you plan to keep mulitple bucks together as pets only and you're afraid they're going fight/hurt each other when they hit puberty. They are like chickens in that they need to establish a pecking order. It might be scary to watch but once it's done, it's done and they should live peacefully in that order. If they spray and you want to stop that behavior, there is no guarantee that they will stop after they are neutered because they've already learned it. So, it might work it might not. I love bucks and have rarely had one that sprays (on me) and I've had a LOT of bucks. They usually present their "buckiness" by running circles around me, bouncing back and forth when they see me coming, and hanging out w/me. They're super cute that way.

FYI, HRS used a tiny, less than 1,000 specimen group, non-scientific study to promote their claims that rabbits should be spayed like a pet dog or cat. In other words, it was not a scientific study at all but meerly a claim they present as "facts" to promote their agenda.

4. Also, what has been your average life span for an indoor or outdoor rabbit?

I have a breeding show herd so most of our rabbits do not stay here their whole lives. However, those that have stayed because they were our "special ones" the ones that would be our pets forever. We have only had rabbits for 8 1/2 years. Our eldest "will never leave our barn" rabbit was 6 when he passed away. :/ He was from our first litter. Other rabbit exhibitors I know have rabbits that lived to 15 - 16 yrs old. These rabbits were not housed in the house w/their owners but had their own house (aka rabbitry).
 
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Well, tried to find out the gender of my bunny, and it seem to be a she! Now I don't know if she's spayed or not, she seems to be over 6 months after having her for a bit, I don't think she's as young as I first thought.. Any way to tell??
If she is spayed, you will be able to feel the scar. It's not her umbilical "bump" (belly button) but I believe it will be between that and her vent. If you are still unsure, ask your vet. If they don't know, get another vet. lol Kidding. ;) Your vet will be able to tell you.
 
1. Do any of you guys take your rabbits to the vets yearly?

That is an HRS promoted idea. Any vets listed on their website have agreed to promote their ideas including that of diet which will, in many cases creates a revolving door to your vets office - rabbit eats irregular diet, gets sick, goes to vet, prescribed meds, gets "better", goes off meds, keeps eating irregular diet, gets sick again, goes back to vet, gets more meds, rinse and repeat. I've worked w/HRS supporting rescues before and taken their rabbits to their highly praised vets. I was not too impressed w/any of them.

A really good rabbit vet is hard to find but they ARE out there. I do NOT take my rabbits to the vet yearly. I take them when needed. For instance, if I have a question about a current health issue that I cannot find the answer to (that occurs rarely), if pinpointing the problem requires equipment/testing that I don't have at home, or if they need meds that must be prescribed a vet (also, fairly rare).

2. what about neutering??

I'm a responsible rabbit owner. I do not let my rabbits out to breed willy nilly. If they're out, they're supervised. Why neuter? They don't get out at night and impregnate the neighborhood rabbits. lol For temperament reasons? I LOVE my intact bucks' and does' temperaments. Bucks are like male cats - big, goofy lovers. Does are level headed 90% - 100% of the time and only grunt when they are new mothers here.

3. Is it necessary?

No. A legitimate scientific study done in Japan showed that while a spayed rabbit has a less chance of getting uterine cancer than a non-breeding doe, it also showed that does bred on a regular schedule had the chance of getting uterine cancers as a spayed rabbit. In other words, you might want to spay her if you are not going to breed her. My does are not at high risk of uterine cancers because they are a breeding herd.

There is no reason to neuter bucks. If they spray and you want to stop that behavior, there is no guarantee that they will stop after they are neutered because they've already learned it. So, it might work it might not. I love bucks and have rarely had one that sprays (on me) and I've had a LOT of bucks. They usually present their "buckiness" by running circles around me, bouncing back and forth when they see me coming, and hanging out w/me. They're super cute that way.

FYI, HRS used a tiny, less than 1,000 specimen group, non-scientific study to promote their claims that rabbits should be spayed like a pet dog or cat. In other words, it was not a scientific study at all but meerly a claim they present as "facts" to promote their agenda.

4. Also, what has been your average life span for an indoor or outdoor rabbit?

I have a breeding show herd so most of our rabbits do not stay here their whole lives. However, those that have stayed because they were our "special ones" the ones that would be our pets forever. We have only had rabbits for 8 1/2 years. Our eldest "will never leave our barn" rabbit was 6 when he passed away. :/ He was from our first litter. Other rabbit exhibitors I know have rabbits that lived to 15 - 16 yrs old. These rabbits were not housed in the house w/their owners but had their own house (aka rabbitry).

Thank you for answering! And yeah, that is where I read it, lol. So what should I feed the rabbit? Right now she is on a straight pellet/ hay diet. This is my first rabbit experience, so I want to get it right ( as I watch my bunny " binky " around ) I'm pretty sure she is already spayed, when I check her " area " It was light pink, and I read somewhere that intact females are reddish, not sure if this is true or not. When I first let my rabbit out, she grunted, and thumped steadily for a good half hour, but now has calmed down, was she just nervous? Thanks for answering!!!
 
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Her scar will be below her belly button bump.

I have to say that I don't keep up what HRS currently recommends. It has changed so many times. I can tell you what I do, though. I give them a pellet-based diet. Quality is the key so buy your feed from a feed store, not a pet store. Unless it's Oxbow. That is the ONLY pet store feed I would ever recommend. But, you can buy the exact same thing for about 1/2 the price at the feed store. You might be able to find it in open bins, 25lb bags, or 40 - 50lb bags. It freezes well so if you have a vacuum sealer...... :) So, I give my rabbits quality pellets, hay (timothy, orchard, oat are all good). I'll also give them the occasional treat from the garden but make sure you really know what you are giving them by understanding what affects they might have on them. High water, high sugar foods like carrots and apples are to be given in very small amounts. Bananas, too. The only obese rabbits I've seen were fed all fresh veggie diets. :( I give herbs sometimes but not will nilly. I do not give my nursing does (or any other animal in milk) mint - it would dry them up - not good. And, by "occasional treat" I mean, once or twice a week at most. Papaya pellets are different. Those can be given more often but are usually reserved for wooled breeds or when your normal furred rabbit begins to molt. However, I do have wooled rabbits and have only had 2 cases of suspected wool block in 8 1/2 years. That is about a 1 - 2 % chance that can be avoided by good breeding and giving a small handful of hay once or twice a week and daily when they are molting.

The vent area of an intact doe can range from pink to purplish. They are not always reddish. In fact, I only see dark pink - reddish when my does are REALLY ready to breed. So, color is not a reliable way to tell if she is spayed or not. Feel for the scar, look for a vet's mark under the fur (like a short line of tattoo ink near the incision sight), or take her to your vet. He can palpate (feel) her to see if her uterus/overaries is still there or if he's not good w/palpating and their is no mark on her, he can do an ultra-sound or xray.

Thumping is no big deal. Best way to get your girl used to you is to hang out w/her, learn how to handle her properly (ask a 4H kid to show you) and then handle her w/confidence - a LOT. Have fun w/her.

Oh, fun game......go into a small room w/no place for her to hide and no toys to play with. Lay on your belly on the floor reading an old paperback book or newspaper and IGNORE her. Don't even look at her. Just read your book/paper. lol Do this for about 30 minutes a couple of days or a week. She might stay aloof at first but soon she won't be able to resist you. She'll nose you, climb on you, rip your newspaper, dig into your clothing, and basically start doing anything to get your your attention. When she gives you that attention, give as much attention as she is comfortable with. That might be just a glance at first. It will build up to pats, head rubs, and food. Give it some time and it will happen. (tip: if she tries to get your attention by nipping you, hollar in pain, say no, and then ignore her again. You can also accompany your "no" w/a LIGHT tap on the forehead or lower your hand on her until they are on her shoulders and keep it there for two seconds or so (shows your are the boss). She'll lower her head in submission and that should be that. She'll learn what is appropriate and what isn't soon enough. But the point of the game is to get her curious (rabbits are sooo curious) about you and get her to be the one to initiate interaction. It will become a game for you both - she'll have fun "manipulating" you, you'll get giggles, and you'll both create a nice friendship.
 
Her scar will be below her belly button bump.

I have to say that I don't keep up what HRS currently recommends. It has changed so many times. I can tell you what I do, though. I give them a pellet-based diet. Quality is the key so buy your feed from a feed store, not a pet store. Unless it's Oxbow. That is the ONLY pet store feed I would ever recommend. But, you can buy the exact same thing for about 1/2 the price at the feed store. You might be able to find it in open bins, 25lb bags, or 40 - 50lb bags. It freezes well so if you have a vacuum sealer...... :) So, I give my rabbits quality pellets, hay (timothy, orchard, oat are all good). I'll also give them the occasional treat from the garden but make sure you really know what you are giving them by understanding what affects they might have on them. High water, high sugar foods like carrots and apples are to be given in very small amounts. Bananas, too. The only obese rabbits I've seen were fed all fresh veggie diets. :( I give herbs sometimes but not will nilly. I do not give my nursing does (or any other animal in milk) mint - it would dry them up - not good. And, by "occasional treat" I mean, once or twice a week at most. Papaya pellets are different. Those can be given more often but are usually reserved for wooled breeds or when your normal furred rabbit begins to molt. However, I do have wooled rabbits and have only had 2 cases of suspected wool block in 8 1/2 years. That is about a 1 - 2 % chance that can be avoided by good breeding and giving a small handful of hay once or twice a week and daily when they are molting.

The vent area of an intact doe can range from pink to purplish. They are not always reddish. In fact, I only see dark pink - reddish when my does are REALLY ready to breed. So, color is not a reliable way to tell if she is spayed or not. Feel for the scar, look for a vet's mark under the fur (like a short line of tattoo ink near the incision sight), or take her to your vet. He can palpate (feel) her to see if her uterus/overaries is still there or if he's not good w/palpating and their is no mark on her, he can do an ultra-sound or xray.

Thumping is no big deal. Best way to get your girl used to you is to hang out w/her, learn how to handle her properly (ask a 4H kid to show you) and then handle her w/confidence - a LOT. Have fun w/her.

Oh, fun game......go into a small room w/no place for her to hide and no toys to play with. Lay on your belly on the floor reading an old paperback book or newspaper and IGNORE her. Don't even look at her. Just read your book/paper. lol Do this for about 30 minutes a couple of days or a week. She might stay aloof at first but soon she won't be able to resist you. She'll nose you, climb on you, rip your newspaper, dig into your clothing, and basically start doing anything to get your your attention. When she gives you that attention, give as much attention as she is comfortable with. That might be just a glance at first. It will build up to pats, head rubs, and food. Give it some time and it will happen. (tip: if she tries to get your attention by nipping you, hollar in pain, say no, and then ignore her again. You can also accompany your "no" w/a LIGHT tap on the forehead or lower your hand on her until they are on her shoulders and keep it there for two seconds or so (shows your are the boss). She'll lower her head in submission and that should be that. She'll learn what is appropriate and what isn't soon enough. But the point of the game is to get her curious (rabbits are sooo curious) about you and get her to be the one to initiate interaction. It will become a game for you both - she'll have fun "manipulating" you, you'll get giggles, and you'll both create a nice friendship.
You have been soooooo helpful, thank you! Right now she is on Small World Rabbit Conejo, It was what the precious owners were feeding her. Is it good stuff? Yeah, the HRS Are recommending only a tiny bit of pellets, lots of hay, and lots of veggies, She does get lots of hay, and right now, unlimited pellets, but that will change in a bit. I'll check her tummy for a scar tomorrow, I think shes gotten handled enough today, lol. I just tried the whole ignore her thing, and she immediately comes up and starts nudging me! lol Can't wait till she starts getting more social!! Right now, just trying to make sure she doesn't eat anything she's not supposed to, not worried about cardboard and newspaper, but filter, wire, drywall has got to stop! I find myself constantly " rabbit proofing" her area when I thought I was done!
 
lol a diaper hahahahah
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