What should I feed meat ducklings?

FuzzyCritters

Crowing
Mar 13, 2020
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Kitsap county, WA
I'm getting meat ducklings tomorrow (Jumbo Pekins and Grimaud Hybrid Pekins), an I'm wondering what I should feed them as starter. I've got 22% protien meat bird crumbles, 19% protein duck feed (for all life stages), and 18% protein grower/flock raiser. I'll add niacin to their water if I feed anything other than the duck feed.

Also, are there any supplements other than niacin needed for meat ducks? I'd like to prevent any leg issues.
 
I raise Pekins on 20%. Not more than that, there is (according to the literature) an increased incidence of angel wing at higher protein contents over the long term, most prevalent when fed high protein in the first weeks. How much more it occurs is pretty vague in the literature, and if you are simply going to butcher at week 8 or 12, it really doesn't matter - then its a question of whether the increased growth offsets the increased feed cost (for me, it doesn't).

I have a mixed flock (see below, in my sig for the current composition), and feed 20% to everyone, all life stages (plus they free range most of the day on several acres). Keep the hens for eggs, cull most of the boys for meat.

Adding a vitamin supplement in the water is good insurance. Unless you are relying on medicated feed to control cocci - then the two can work at cross purposes.
 
I raise Pekins on 20%. Not more than that, there is (according to the literature) an increased incidence of angel wing at higher protein contents over the long term, most prevalent when fed high protein in the first weeks. How much more it occurs is pretty vague in the literature, and if you are simply going to butcher at week 8 or 12, it really doesn't matter - then its a question of whether the increased growth offsets the increased feed cost (for me, it doesn't).

I have a mixed flock (see below, in my sig for the current composition), and feed 20% to everyone, all life stages (plus they free range most of the day on several acres). Keep the hens for eggs, cull most of the boys for meat.

Adding a vitamin supplement in the water is good insurance. Unless you are relying on medicated feed to control cocci - then the two can work at cross purposes.
Thank you! I guess I'll feed them duck feed to start. I don't want angel wing, as 2/3 of these ducks are being sold at a meat auction, so I want them to look like they are in good condition (though I guess I could just clip their wing feathers if they get it).

To clarify, by vitamin supplement do you mean the chick electrolyte + vitamin mixes (sav a chick, nutri drench, etc), or is there some other type?

Not using any coccidiosis preventatives (other than a clean enclosure)--IMO it's not common enough in ducks to warrant the use of preventative medications.
 
Thank you! I guess I'll feed them duck feed to start. I don't want angel wing, as 2/3 of these ducks are being sold at a meat auction, so I want them to look like they are in good condition (though I guess I could just clip their wing feathers if they get it).

To clarify, by vitamin supplement do you mean the chick electrolyte + vitamin mixes (sav a chick, nutri drench, etc), or is there some other type?

Not using any coccidiosis preventatives (other than a clean enclosure)--IMO it's not common enough in ducks to warrant the use of preventative medications.
I mean something with the B vitamin Thiamine, (B-1), since Amprolium works as a Thiamine "substitute", disrupting Cocci when they take it up instead, and then can't use it. But since you aren't using medicated feed, any vitamin supplement you choose should be just fine.

I only use it in the water for my ducklings till they get moved outside into grow out quarters (around 10 days). After that, they are on their own. I use Rooster Booster Poultry Booster, but only because its what was available when I was buying, not because I'm wedded to the brand or the product. There probably is better out there, but it was (relatively speaking) "in bulk", which is what I wanted, not the little yeast-pack sized single servings. Though it has Calcium in it, so I ****WILL**** change to something else, next time around. I'm not a fan of excess calcium for developing birds.
 
I have 75 plus meat ducks right now (pekins) with 25 more in the incubator. They are raised on fermented wheat and Tucker Milling Non-GMO 18% chick starter. I also allow them to free range.
 
I feed my jumbo pekins about 24-25% starter blend. They also free range. That ratio of protein really puts the emphasis is on the JUMBO in pekin. Mine get butchered by 8 weeks, so there's no sign of leg or wing issues at that point.
 
I feed my jumbo pekins about 24-25% starter blend. They also free range. That ratio of protein really puts the emphasis is on the JUMBO in pekin. Mine get butchered by 8 weeks, so there's no sign of leg or wing issues at that point.
Good to know they didn't get any leg and wing issues. I'm looking to butcher in 16 weeks, so I guess I'll go with a lower protein so they don't grow as fast. How big did your ducks get?
 
IMO the fermented wheat is good for their gut and it keeps them full so they don't gorge and waste any of their main feed. I load up a 5 gallon bucket a little over half way with wheat. Then I fill it with water until its 2 inches over the top of the wheat. Add in a splash of natural apple cider vinegar and let it sit for 3-4 days. I feed the fermented wheat in the morning and their main starter feed in the evenings.
 
I have 75 plus meat ducks right now (pekins) with 25 more in the incubator. They are raised on fermented wheat and Tucker Milling Non-GMO 18% chick starter. I also allow them to free range.

You like the Tucker??? I've been using Harrell Milling and mixing my own to get to the right protein ratio - bit longer drive for the Tucker, but its nice to have options.
 

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