What submissive chicken breed to add to Barred Rock and Barnevelder

BassBirdie

Chirping
5 Years
Dec 20, 2019
11
9
64
I have a very calm Barred Rock and a shy Barnevelder. Barnevelder only was attacked badly by my RIR, who I re-homed to a farm to be a free-range.

Now I want to add two more (I will raise them from chicks), but must have a breed that will be lower in the pecking order than the Barred Rock, and is submissive and docile to other birds (like the Barnevelder is). Heat tolerance is a must, as well as tolerating confinement, and would prefer a hen that isn't too broody but it's not a deal-breaker.

Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
Sounds like heat tolerance is the only real issue here.
Even with the most docile breed(if you can really find that) there will be territoriality issues when bringing in new birds....the new birds will be lower in pecking order.

Here's some tips about.....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/
 
Thanks for the info. I have the run set up so that I can separate it down the middle, with a 1"mesh deer fence, and have the new birds roost separately for awhile. Also three feeders and two waterers. The idea of having places to hide is a great one - I will look into that. I have roosts and stumps, but no pallets or similar things. Thank you again for your help.
 
You can go through Henderson's Breed Chart and see which ones sound good then go to Feathersite to see what they look like.

Henderson’s Breed Chart

http://www.sagehenfarmlodi.com/chooks/chooks.html

Feathersite

http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/BRKPoultryPage.html#Chickens

Breeds can have general tendencies but that doesn't give you guarantees as to what behaviors you will get with one or two hens. You have to have enough for averages to mean something and even then you can get individuals that are a long way from the average. Silkies are supposed to be about the least aggressive/dominant of any yet some people have one that is a pure terror. Some people say their Barred Rock is at the bottom of the pecking order where others say they are mean. Some people say their RIR is very docile, I believe you have a different opinion.

Still, breed tendencies are the best you have to work with. I don't know any better way.
 
Initially had three buff Orpington, added an EE and a SS. Used aart’s method to Integrade them. The BO bullied the two younger ones for six months, when they where all laying the bulling stopped.
 

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