What type of wood and how thick for walls and the roof?

[saysfaa]

In my area, inexpensive and durable would be white pine or douglas fir boards. But both are available from local sawyers here and we don't have termites. I've heard termites and other wood eaters can be a major problem in the steamy southeast, including parts of Virginnia (maybe?)

One of the places I've lived, had termites enough that a termite inspection was fairly common when buying a house. There, inexpensive and durable was osage orange. The downside being it is extremely hard to work with. It is not straight and is very hard on tools even when it is green. It is worse on tools when it is not green. I don't know of any buildings made of it but I would like to try a stackwood coop or shed with it someday.

These may help.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/large-open-air-coop-in-central-nc.1443812/page-2

 

[Egghead_Jr]

Cover the roof with hardware cloth then screw the metal roofing right to the rafters. This lasts and provides upper ventilation. Two birds with one stone.

For siding, unless you are intending clapboard or shingles, Plytanium t1-11 is an overall budget application. It's lapped edges provide a solid shell and is not unappealing to look at. Accepts exterior stain or paint well and is your sheathing/finish in one sheet. Downside is thickness but as long as the coop is raised from ground it lasts. I've got a coop built ten years ago with transparent cedar stain and it's still good.

Another option if you want thicker wall is board and baton. One inch green rough cut boards are a buck a board foot, it's more labor than sheathing but actually cheaper and much tougher. Green boards are fit tight with the two or three inch ripped board for baton over the joint. This provides a solid shell as the wood shrinks and looks good. With this option you'd just pick up rough cut 2x4's at the same mill, save all around. I'd still use a pressure treated plywood for the floor though.

 

[lagrange chicks]

My coop was made from wood I sawed on my sawmill. White pine 2x4 and 1x8 white pine for the walls. I used a low grade white oak for the roof and floor, both covered with large rubber conveyor belt cut offs.

 

[wrathsfarm]

Cover the roof with hardware cloth then screw the metal roofing right to the rafters. This lasts and provides upper ventilation. Two birds with one stone.

1/2" OSB would be way easier than hardware cloth and purlins in my opinion. Cost wise would be minimal comparing.

 

[Chicks in VA]

The plytanium t1-11 is like 40+ dollars a sheet so here is what I was looking at

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Plytanium-...ral-Plywood-Pine-Application-as-4-x-8/3010129

 

[Egghead_Jr]

1/2" OSB would be way easier than hardware cloth and purlins in my opinion. Cost wise would be minimal comparing.

You are speaking of nailers, something to screw to. The purlins negate a need for OSB or plywood sheathing. The hardware cloth is to keep weasels out and allow venting out the high hats of metal roofing.

 

[wrathsfarm]

You are speaking of nailers, something to screw to. The purlins negate a need for OSB or plywood sheathing. The hardware cloth is to keep weasels out and allow venting out the high hats of metal roofing.

Yes, for metal sheet roofing, either purlins ( boards nailed horizontal on top of roof trusses) or OSB/ply works. Although, some testing reports applyinh sheeting over Osb/ply will wear metal sheeting as the steel shifts (expanding/contracting) with temp shifts over time, albeit minimal.
My opinion like said is the cost between purlins/covering the whole roof with HC compared to just sheeting it would be minimal and much easier as far as labor. And would only need HC at ridge and eaves.
Just my .02 cents. Either way, properly done would stop any predator entry point.
I'm just adding my experience in my humid state where using OSB/Ply instead of Purlins also benefits reduced rain noise and possible condensation building up in an already humid area, especially one not properly ventilated which is a very common occurrence with chicken coops.
Ultimately, whichever way the OP decides is their choice.

 

[Chicks in VA]

Alright thanks for input , dont need it anymore as I got wood today and am going to ask a builder ( I forgot about him when I was asking about the roof) about what roofing idea would work best for me. Thanks to all!

 

[Egghead_Jr]

@wrathsfarm I think you are missing the point. The metal roofing acts as the upper venting if it's open to the coop. The Hardware cloth is to keep predators out of the open high hats of the metal roof. I find it easier just to cover the entire roof with it. Single slant roof, air enters lower end under metal roof, combines with moist coop air, then exits the top of roof slant. This is a natural convection pump of air flow and all a coop needs.

 

[SarahGfa]

Agree with @mowin use OSB+roofing membrane+shingles (or metal) for the roof.

Roof support framing can be 2x4s assuming light snow loads. Use 16"OC and/or 2x6 for heavier loads.

If roofing membrane+shingles will be added, do they need to have the OSB underneath? or can it be something thin and light like MDF? or HW cloth? sorry if this is a stupid question.