Which Incubator to buy?

I currently have a Hovabator with automatic turner and I do not like it because it is very hard to regulate the temperature and humidity. My hatch rates have been very poor so far, but I have been hatching duck eggs. I just set a batch of chicken eggs so I will see if they do better. From what I have read and from the people I have talked to I will most likely buy a Brinsea Octagon 20 with the cradle(turner), though the R-com20 mentioned above sounds interesting.
 
I currently have a Hovabator with automatic turner and I do not like it because it is very hard to regulate the temperature and humidity.  My hatch rates have been very poor so far, but I have been hatching duck eggs.  I just set a batch of chicken eggs so I will see if they do better.  From what I have read and from the people I have talked to I will most likely buy a Brinsea Octagon 20 with the cradle(turner), though the R-com20 mentioned above sounds interesting.


Did you just put in your eggs today? I would be interested to see how your hatch rate is with chicken eggs. Which model hova-bator do you have?
 
I have a Hova-Bator Model 2364N with circulated air and built in thermometer and hydrometer. The thermometer is not accurate and I had to have a second one. It has an automatic turner and racks for chicken/duck size eggs and one for quail size eggs.

I set 14 chicken eggs on April 21, I also have eggs under a broody which should hatch around the same time. I will keep you posted.
 
Do you use the heat plate in addition to a brooder light or in place of one? I am not really familiar with these. I have heard less about the Rcom but noticed it was mentioned in an old thread about being a great brand. 


No light just the Heat Plate. I've had a hard time adjusting my heat lamps and heat lamps are a fire hazard. I have used the EcoGlow brooder from Brinsea and loved it but the glue let loose on the underside. I got the Heat Plate because you should be able to see the chicks under it from all sides. Since it is going into a nursing home safety is important.safety for both the chicks and the people. I understand that the Heat Plate is warmer than the EcoGlow. My goal is for the elderly to be able to hold and watch the chicks.

We also went with the R-com 20 because the residents can wheel their wheelchairs up to it and see into it without lifting the lid or disturbing it in any way. I was afraid the residents would knock the Brinsea 20 off its cradle. I like the all in one design of the R-com. It does not have any outside moving parts. We should have 20 chicks hatch this weekend.
 
Hi TattooedMama

If you are on a budget, I would encourage you to go for the Brinsea 20 Eco, even if it is a little more expensive than a styro-bator. If you get it as just the manual turn it will be around $175ish.

I built my own Coleman incubator and learned a lot. My hatch success was poor on shipped eggs so I moved on , but in retrospect I think that some of my failures with this unit was due to me being a novice and I think that if I went back it would perform better than the styro I have tried. The most important part was I did not have the incubator set up in a room with a stable temp and humidity.

I have tried a borrowed Hovabator and it did not perform in a satisfactory fashion with temp spikes and was really hard to clean to my satisfaction. The rough contour of any styrofoam will allow bacteria to settle and be protected so that in future hatches the 'bator will be pre-seeded with bacteria. Its a concern of mine.

On a budget, I ordered a Farm Innovators 4200 from Amazon. When I got it, the warranty was only for 30 days (the Amazon pdf showed 60 days). Think about it, it takes 21 days to hatch a batch so the company only thinks that the incubator will be reliable enough for them to replace for 1 hatch cycle. II called the number and left messages but never got a reply from the non-existent customer service rep. No way is this good enough for me, so I sent it back.

I settled on the Brinsea in desperation, even though it was above my budget and I am glad I did. My hubby gave me the turning cradle for Christmas, so its even easier. It is really and truly bare-bones but it holds a rock-solid temp throughout the entire incubator. I daisy-chained multiple temp sensors (that continuously sent temps to my computer for reference) in the little guy to prove it to myself. The original reference bulb thermometer you use verify temp was mis-marked. I contacted customer service and immediately got a response from a real person and they shipped out two replacements. Hand turning the whole unit was so easy--not anything like having to hand-turn the eggs individually. Very easy to take apart and thoroughly clean after the hatch, too.

The Brinsea holds 24 XL chicken eggs. I am currently on day 11 of a new hatch and candled last night. I wanted to see if I could squeeze in a couple of extras, so I had perched them between and atop the lower rows on one end and used small strips of egg-crate foam wedged between the lower rows and extending up to keep the eggs from falling over when the incubator turned. Both of those eggs are developing nicely so I will be inclined to add extras the next time around with the theory that you will always have a few duds that will make space for the extras.

The only downside with the Brinsea is that the headroom is pretty low. I ended up taking out the first group that hatched when I saw that there were no pipped eggs, then used the opportunity to top off the wells with water to continue the hatch.

If you consider the cost of shipped eggs, which including shipping have run me $45-$75/dozen then getting even one more chick to hatch per set will end up paying for a slightly more expensive incubator after a few hatches.

I have heard wonderful things about the Rcom and the Brinsea Advance models, but they are out of my league.
 
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Heat Plate
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R-com 20
 
I recently decided to hatch out chicks for the first time. I borrowed a Little Giant Still Air Incubator with egg turner from a friend. She had owned it for many years, and had always had good luck with it. She told me, "Don't worry, it's easy, just read the instructions." Bad advice!

The instructions are hugely inadequate for a novice, especially a first timer. It said to turn it on and adjust the temp knob until it could maintain a steady temp for 6-8 hours, then to add water and put the eggs in. It didn't say how much water, and it didn't say what temp the water should be. It just said to add water to the "moisture rings." So I filled the rings, luckily using warm water but obviously not warm enough. The rings held a cup of water. It did not say to determine if the incubator could hold a steady temp after adding the water, so I didn't. It did not say to prewarm the eggs up slightly before putting them in a warm incubator, so I didn't. I just put the huge amount of water in, put the eggs in, and closed the lid. It specifically said the incubator should take 2-3 hours to warm up again with the eggs inside, and to not open the lid for the next 24 hours. I removed one vent plug, as directed.

The humidity quickly went up to 65%, and the temp stayed between 94-96 that entire next day. I wanted to adjust the knob, but the person I borrowed the incubator from said she has never adjusted the knob since she got it regulated, and that even minor adjustments can cause major temp changes, so I just waited for the temp to increase more. I didn't know at the time that maintaining at this temp for a few days was a problem. After one day I became worried and put the second vent plug back in. That raised and maintained the temp at 97-98 degrees, and the humidity rose to 74%..

After 2 days, I decided that this would never work, so I quickly opened the incubator and removed all the water (which was not easy or convenient with this design). That brought the humidity down to 21% and the temp up to 99 degrees within a few hours. I found it difficult to add even small amounts of water without either removing the eggs or taking a chance that the water would splash on the eggs, so I added a wet paper towel to the incubator every day to maintain a humidity between 20-30%, which is what was needed to get the air sacs the proper size in these eggs. I candled at 7 days, and all the eggs appeared clear, but I'm inexperienced at candling so I didn't throw them away. I continued with the incubation and candling until day 18, when I had to decide whether or not to start lockdown. Since I wasn't seeing anything when candling, I decided to open the oldest egg (the least likely to hatch) to see what was inside. There was no development at all, still just yolk and albumin, the yolk was intact, and nothing smelled at all. The albumin was watery, but that's expected after 10 days of storage and 18 days of incubation. So I know my hygiene and egg selection is good. I continued to open one egg after the other, in order of least hatchability to most hatchability, until they were all down the garbage disposal.
hit.gif
I know that the eggs were fertile, since almost all the eggs from the same birds under broody hens hatched perfectly.

So, huge lesson learned. I was in a big hurry to get the eggs into the incubator to coordinate the incubator hatch with the broody hen hatches. I wanted to add the incubator chicks to the broody clutches, so I needed them to be less than 12 hours apart. I didn't get the incubator until the last minute, so I didn't have time to read up on it or pre-test the humidity issue adequately before adding eggs, which I would have done even if the instruction didn't say to, if I'd had the time. And I'd never used an incubator before, so had no idea that one cup of water was too much. I don't know if the Little Giant Still Air Incubator is any good or not, but it definitely has inadequate instructions for a beginner. It is only around $50, so the price is great. But it is difficult to adjust the temp, and difficult to add water unless only holding a few eggs. There may be other problems with it also, but my eggs didn't get far enough to recognize any other issues. I will be buying my own incubator soon, and will definitely not be buying a Styrofoam model, or a model with just an unmarked stick as a temp control knob, or a model where it is difficult to add water. And I will want to read the directions before I buy the machine, just to be sure that they make sense, and are specific enough to be useful. Sometimes a more expensive model is the least expensive in the long run, because cheap is only a good deal if it isn't a waste of money. I'm very glad I was able to borrow this model before buying an incubator, as I learned a lot. And I'm very glad that the eggs that were lost were from my own hens, and not expensive eggs that were shipped in.
 
I started out about a year ago with a little giant still air with auto turn..... first hatch only got a couple..... kept on trying and was getting a little better. I had it in the garage (heated) but still not a constant temp. I moved the bator into my walk in closest and it help so much with the consistency of the temp in the bator. but still not the greatest of hatches. so I bought a farm innovations 4200 forced air with turner. at lockdown first time around 29 eggs out of 35. only 15 hatched. they were getting shrink wrapped. I feel as though the fan dries the membrane out to much once they pip even with a ton of water in it. so tried it again but got a good thermometer, once lockdown rolled around I put them in the little giant still air and got the humidity up 65% still only about 65-70% hatch. well this last hatch I started off with the farm innovations and at lockdown I moved them into the little giant but this time put them in plastic egg rack 23 eggs went into lockdown 22 hatched. those babies popped right out like crazy. in conclusion I think it really depends on your hatching environment. you need a good consistent area to set up in. a good thermometer, good humidity, and lots of practice.
 
I recently decided to hatch out chicks for the first time. I borrowed a Little Giant Still Air Incubator with egg turner from a friend. She had owned it for many years, and had always had good luck with it. She told me, "Don't worry, it's easy, just read the instructions." Bad advice!

The instructions are hugely inadequate for a novice, especially a first timer. It said to turn it on and adjust the temp knob until it could maintain a steady temp for 6-8 hours, then to add water and put the eggs in. It didn't say how much water, and it didn't say what temp the water should be. It just said to add water to the "moisture rings." So I filled the rings, luckily using warm water but obviously not warm enough. The rings held a cup of water. It did not say to determine if the incubator could hold a steady temp after adding the water, so I didn't. It did not say to prewarm the eggs up slightly before putting them in a warm incubator, so I didn't. I just put the huge amount of water in, put the eggs in, and closed the lid. It specifically said the incubator should take 2-3 hours to warm up again with the eggs inside, and to not open the lid for the next 24 hours. I removed one vent plug, as directed.

The humidity quickly went up to 65%, and the temp stayed between 94-96 that entire next day. I wanted to adjust the knob, but the person I borrowed the incubator from said she has never adjusted the knob since she got it regulated, and that even minor adjustments can cause major temp changes, so I just waited for the temp to increase more. I didn't know at the time that maintaining at this temp for a few days was a problem. After one day I became worried and put the second vent plug back in. That raised and maintained the temp at 97-98 degrees, and the humidity rose to 74%..

After 2 days, I decided that this would never work, so I quickly opened the incubator and removed all the water (which was not easy or convenient with this design). That brought the humidity down to 21% and the temp up to 99 degrees within a few hours. I found it difficult to add even small amounts of water without either removing the eggs or taking a chance that the water would splash on the eggs, so I added a wet paper towel to the incubator every day to maintain a humidity between 20-30%, which is what was needed to get the air sacs the proper size in these eggs. I candled at 7 days, and all the eggs appeared clear, but I'm inexperienced at candling so I didn't throw them away. I continued with the incubation and candling until day 18, when I had to decide whether or not to start lockdown. Since I wasn't seeing anything when candling, I decided to open the oldest egg (the least likely to hatch) to see what was inside. There was no development at all, still just yolk and albumin, the yolk was intact, and nothing smelled at all. The albumin was watery, but that's expected after 10 days of storage and 18 days of incubation. So I know my hygiene and egg selection is good. I continued to open one egg after the other, in order of least hatchability to most hatchability, until they were all down the garbage disposal.
hit.gif
I know that the eggs were fertile, since almost all the eggs from the same birds under broody hens hatched perfectly.

So, huge lesson learned. I was in a big hurry to get the eggs into the incubator to coordinate the incubator hatch with the broody hen hatches. I wanted to add the incubator chicks to the broody clutches, so I needed them to be less than 12 hours apart. I didn't get the incubator until the last minute, so I didn't have time to read up on it or pre-test the humidity issue adequately before adding eggs, which I would have done even if the instruction didn't say to, if I'd had the time. And I'd never used an incubator before, so had no idea that one cup of water was too much. I don't know if the Little Giant Still Air Incubator is any good or not, but it definitely has inadequate instructions for a beginner. It is only around $50, so the price is great. But it is difficult to adjust the temp, and difficult to add water unless only holding a few eggs. There may be other problems with it also, but my eggs didn't get far enough to recognize any other issues. I will be buying my own incubator soon, and will definitely not be buying a Styrofoam model, or a model with just an unmarked stick as a temp control knob, or a model where it is difficult to add water. And I will want to read the directions before I buy the machine, just to be sure that they make sense, and are specific enough to be useful. Sometimes a more expensive model is the least expensive in the long run, because cheap is only a good deal if it isn't a waste of money. I'm very glad I was able to borrow this model before buying an incubator, as I learned a lot. And I'm very glad that the eggs that were lost were from my own hens, and not expensive eggs that were shipped in.
yeah the big this is calabration you have to run the bator for a few days before adding eggs but don't worry you can hatch more later
 

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