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It strikes me as a little odd that you consider exhibition style poultry the "real deal". That seems analogous to saying that Miss America is the "real deal" while the average woman out there is somehow inferior.
To me, the real deal would be what you'd get if you simply let the backyard chickens select their pecking order and mate(s) and raise chicks as they see fit.
But, domestication really means that the "real deal" is a constantly moving target and will mean different things to different people.
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A buff is a buff, that doesn't mean they are all equal. Nor does it mean (as it does in breeding other animals like dogs) that a buff will contain 100% buff blood.
All chickens should be bred equally and the same quality in every stock.
That would take some of the fun (and work, experience, talent, etc.) out of it, wouldn't it? You might want to think of the hatchery quantity as the norm for a breed and the APA standards as goal for an exceptional specimen. Many breeders work towards the goal of having an exceptional chicken, but they (the exceptional breeders and the exceptional chickens) just aren't the norm. Plus, different folks are out for different qualities, some want perfect combs, some want egg production, some want good feathering, some want large breasts, etc. Why should the egg production of the Rhode Island Reds I want suffer because you want them to conform to a show standard for size? Rhode Island Reds are not one quality fits all.