Will ducks respond to behavioral modifications?

[BrunoAndFriend]

Hi, I have read the past threads on how to control an aggressive drake and seem to be losing the battle. I have 1 male and 1 female Pekin duck, about 4 months old. The female is a sweetie but for the past month the male bites (enough to draw blood or form a raspberry mark) anytime my husband or I put new water in bowl, food or treats down, or open the pen. It seems like it has confused happiness for aggression? We have tried the methods listed here about gently sitting on the duck and holding it down for 5 minutes--this works only for a bit. I would say the intensity has picked up over the last few weeks rather than getting better. How long before the switch goes off in the ducks head, or will it likely not at this point? I am thinking of trying Avian Calm (l-theanine) or CBD. Other suggestions would be appreciated, or experience with this issue or these products. If we do have to part with him, should we part with both together?

 

[HalfWayUpAMountain]

We've had success with behavior modification using a nice long bamboo cane to put between attacking duck and their intended victime - no-ones getting hit, they just know a barrier appears when they behave a certain way. We've also tapped bills if theyve got nibbly with us - I dont think that would work as an intervention between two ducks though.

I believe @Miss Lydia has had some success with a hosepipe moderating drake behaviour in sexy season too.

If Mr Drake doesnt wind his neck in, its time for drake jail (note; not freezer camp). This means seperating them so they can still see each other and chat.

Hope that helps !

 

[Trisseh]

My hand raised drakelet (now 17 weeks) was similar, he’d bite hard, he’d come running up and bite you, he’d bite if he thought I was going to be “mean” to the girls or his drakelet buddy... I’ve spent hours in repetitive training with him. If he comes at me. I grab his neck, pop him on the ground, hold his head down flat too, and “peck” him in the shoulders and the top of his head. 5 minutes isn’t long enough, at least it wasn’t for my guy. If another drake was going to do the same, he would make sure that the one on the bottom is thoroughly humiliated. If you let him up and he comes at you again, repeat. He didn’t get the message. If he comes up behind you in a sneak attack, grab him. If he comes up behind you but turns when you turn around, follow through and peck him in the shoulders until he’s out of your space. You have to be consistent though. Every single time.

my guy now will come up to me politely, may sit on the toe of my boot, and I can pet him. All I have to do to get him to move out of my space is point my finger like I’m going to peck him, and he takes a dozen steps or so away to a respectable distance. He’s not terrified, he doesn’t run in a panic, but he’s not constantly attacking me either.

 

[BrunoAndFriend]

Thanks for the responses. How long would you say the consistent training took before he got the message, from beginning to end? I am quite far from that point, as he just bites my finger if I stick it out...he's polite with my teenage daughter, so I do see hope. I could understand the aggression if I was taking food or water away or putting him away into the pen, but it is always centered around a positive action. Very confusing.

 

[Trisseh]

I’ve found the “friendly” ones to be the worst, honestly.
my guy started “acting out” at around 8 weeks, when his voice changed and he started showing interest in my adult duck hen. Hormones started raging I guess. He’s now 17 weeks and I would say he’s been “reformed” for a little over a week. It’s a long haul for sure.
Also, don’t feed him by hand. He’s already ill mannered so don’t give him any incentive to continue that behaviour with something good in your hand if he bites it. If you’re bringing food or water in, bring it in and then grab him right away when he comes to bite you. Don’t reward his rude behaviour. If, when you let him up, he goes straight for the food or water, good. Ignore him and carry on with your day. If you’re bringing out treats, move him out of your space before you put it out for them. I’ve found with my guy it’s better to toss his treats a little ways away so he moves away from me when I bring them. He’s like a dog that knows you’re going to throw a ball. Lol.

 

[HalfWayUpAMountain]

My hand raised drakelet (now 17 weeks) was similar, he’d bite hard, he’d come running up and bite you, he’d bite if he thought I was going to be “mean” to the girls or his drakelet buddy... I’ve spent hours in repetitive training with him. If he comes at me. I grab his neck, pop him on the ground, hold his head down flat too, and “peck” him in the shoulders and the top of his head. 5 minutes isn’t long enough, at least it wasn’t for my guy. If another drake was going to do the same, he would make sure that the one on the bottom is thoroughly humiliated. If you let him up and he comes at you again, repeat. He didn’t get the message. If he comes up behind you in a sneak attack, grab him. If he comes up behind you but turns when you turn around, follow through and peck him in the shoulders until he’s out of your space. You have to be consistent though. Every single time.

my guy now will come up to me politely, may sit on the toe of my boot, and I can pet him. All I have to do to get him to move out of my space is point my finger like I’m going to peck him, and he takes a dozen steps or so away to a respectable distance. He’s not terrified, he doesn’t run in a panic, but he’s not constantly attacking me either.

Nice work !!

 

[Trisseh]

Nice work !!

No guarantees on it working though! Last year’s drake went away because he was not reforming. He had no excuse either, he was a purchased duckling and not a single hatchling that I hatched myself. Lol.