Winterizing coop not working out

[aart]

In regards to a leaking waterer in the coop (or spilled, or splashed...) that would be a contributing factor.

Even an open water can contribute to coop humidity via evaporation.

 

[PirateGirl]

I agree with @Cryss "they don't go out because they don't need to."
Perhaps work on making their outside area more appealing. *Most* chickens do just fine in temperatures down to 10*F or colder outdoors if it is not windy on top of that.
I put food and treats outside, also the chickens are more inclined to go out if they can walk on pine shavings instead of snow, at least a bit, and I'll put down just a thin layer on top of the snow (just enough so it looks brown and not white). They also like perches outside they can climb on instead of walking in snow, which also gives them a way to warm up their feet by sitting on them. I can't tell from your pictures, but if there is NOT a light on inside during the day, it will be lighter outdoors than inside the coop, which also entices them out.

 

[Peepsi]

@Cryss
Length = 178 in
Width = 94 in
Roof is slanted so
Tallest height = 81 in
Shortest height = 64 in

Yikes. And that's for 33 chickens? I have a coop/run that just slightly bigger than yours. I have 4 chickens, and would be able to keep 6 to 8 chickens in my coop/run before overcrowding, dampness, and ammonia would begin to cause problems. I think you need to either pare down the amount of chickens you have, or expand their coop. When cooped up, adult chickens really need at least 10 sq. Feet of space per chicken (or 8 sq feet per adult chickens if you have bantams).

 

[Chwicks]

I’ve got a flock of 14 in North Wisconsin. We already have 2’ of snow on the ground and highs in the single digits.

After lots of research, I opted to use sand for our bedding. It’s worked out pretty well. The poop freezes and I use a cat litter scooper with a 3’ retractable handle to scoop the poop daily. I’ve also got a few pullets that LOVE to play around in our waterer, which is on a heated base to keep it from freezing. If I had anything other than sand I’m sure it would be a huge issue because she makes a heck of a mess. But, since we have sand, the sand basically freezes into a block or little clumps and I scoop it out very easily each day.

Maybe consider changing out the type of litter your using... Today our run was 10 degrees F and the chickens were fine. We do have lots of roosts in the run, as well as some tree stumps for them to get off of the sand... if they so desire. I also turn on a heat lamp while I’m in there cleaning, which is only about an hour a day (for run and coop maintenance).

I hope you’re able to get a fix in place, and I wish you all the best with your flock.

 

[Cryss]

Yikes. And that's for 33 chickens? I have a coop/run that just slightly bigger than yours. I have 4 chickens, and would be able to keep 6 to 8 chickens in my coop/run before overcrowding, dampness, and ammonia would begin to cause problems. I think you need to either pare down the amount of chickens you have, or expand their coop. When cooped up, adult chickens really need at least 10 sq. Feet of space per chicken (or 8 sq feet per adult chickens if you have bantams).

I like your thinking because bigger is ALWAYS better. I've always read and gone by the standard of 4sqft/bird inside the coop, 10sqft/bird outside in the run, 1sqft of ventilation per bird.
Even with this standard it will hold 29 chickens, so OP is 4 birds too many. Not great but not horrifying. If things can be adjusted to get through the winter there are things can be done come spring to make things really right. I'm so glad we got those dimensions! Thank you
@SilkieSisters !
Ok, in the picture your solid walls on 2 sides look about 4 feet high, yes? The left hand wall looks like it could be an outside wall to your house or a shed perhaps? The unseen wall you have described as solid wire. I'd love to see it. Is it also covered in plastic? Does it have a door?

Assuming my image of your coop walls is correct, or close, here's some ideas.

Cover the lower wire area (circled with green) with plywood or something that will not allow wind through. Remove the plastic only from the upper wire area above it. If you can do the same on the unseen wall all the better.

Considering you have a couple extra birds you want as much floor walkabout space as possible. The tubs catching poop is not a terrible idea, really. But it takes up floor space. A thin flat board hung about 8 inches below the roosts will catch the poop. I saw someone a sheet of cloth to catch poop. Not perfect but hey, we're improvising here! The idea is to clear the floor of "furniture". Floors are for walking on.
What is the item on the left side looks like a bookcase? Is that nest area? Hang milk crates or make a from that wall about 18 inches high for nests. Opening the floor up will reduce stress in the flock.

Lastly but possibly most important after ventilation is moving the food and water outside. I already mentioned why.

Here's one you won't like but trust me and a whole bunch of us northerners (New Jersey here, ice storm central). Remove any heat. It doesn't allow the birds to acclimate as nature intended. It causes condensation, is a fire hazard, and if your power goes out in a storm they aren't acclimated so they freeze to death.

All of this is just suggestions to help you come up with some winter solutions with whatever you have on hand. Use your imagination and fix these issues if only for winter. And keep us updated so we can help with snags along the way.


Good luck!

 

[Soy Milano]

Did you put up something around the run to shelter from the wind and snow? Here is a good example - https://www.instagram.com/p/B3YAmafApwp/

 

[Cryss]

I felt that was implied when I mentioned splashes and spills, but I 100% agree with you - an open waterer in the coop will contribute to humidity levels in the coop.

Especially if the waterer is heated.

@chickens really @MilesFluffybutt @Trevorusn @aart
View attachment 1979179
Here's my coop right now, I have 33 chickens and I know its too many for the space they have . . . I found that out the hard way after I got them. I have some containers down to collect poop at night. The water hasn't leaked or spilled at all and I can't put it outside because it gets so cold and below freezing a lot that they refuse to go out. Also, the snow will be above the run most of the winter season. I can cut as many and as big of holes in the plastic wrap as needed. The 4th wall in this picture that isn't seen is pure chicken wire and that's where most of the plastic is.

They don't go out because they don't need to. Water and food is inside. Cold will not hurt your chickens. Wet and cold will especially as crowded as they are indoors! Put the food and water in the run close to the coop. They can run in and out as needed to eat and drink. They won't be so crowded when some or all are outside. They will enjoy being out even in the cold, trust me. But if they are in wet conditions inside then cold is worse for them. Put food and water out and let them out.

Vent vent vent above their heads!

 

[Cryss]

Your plastic covered wire is in direct line with your roosting and swinging chickens. If you open the plastic you will putting a direct cold serious draft on them. If you don't open sufficient ventilation above their heads the coop will be soggy, wet, icy inside when it freezes, and the chickens will be damp, the is will freeze on them. Combs and wattles will get frostbite possibly causing loss of the combs and wattles, possibly losing the chicken(s). What are the dimensions of this coop including height? We can understand better with pictures and the dimensions.
I understand you love your chickens. I love mine too. I started out doing everything wrong, and I mean everything. It took me a lot of hard work, especially being 66 when I started. I took on all the advice and criticism and busted my patootie to keep my flock safe while I also worked toward major permenant changes. As much as you love them, if conditions are unhealthy for them you need to either make conditions that are appropriate right away or you need to make hard decisions. Please help us help you by giving us more information.

 

[NatJ]

I still think trying to get them outside isnt such a good idea because the temp in winter is usually -10*F to 20*F and the winds are neverending and brutal . . . the cold is pretty dangerous here (sometimes being outside for 5-10 minutes gives frostbite) and if i let them out in the run then theyll be a foot under snow.

I grew up in Alaska. Our chickens spent all winter inside, with no access to the run. I don't remember any of them dying of it

One winter we had 50 chickens (7 roosters, 43 hens) in 144 square feet. We had figured 4 square feet for a large chicken, 3 square feet for a small chicken, and 2 square feet for a bantam. It worked--no deaths, no overmated hens, no injuries beyond a bloody comb once or twice.

We added more bedding fairly regularly, and yes it did smell (my Dad had built it nice and tight--we added more ventilation for the next year.)

I won't say it's ideal, but it certainly can be possible. Of course it's more like commercial chicken keeping than the standard backyard arrangements, and is probably less fun for the chickens than if you gave them more space--but they can live a pretty good life with that amount of space in the winter and more in the summer. I see yours have plenty of things for them to get on top of, and plenty of floor space for them to scratch/dust bathe/walk around: good planning!

By conventional standards you’re looking at a maximum 28 chickens for you approx. 115sqft of floor space (if you factor 4sqft of coop floor per chicken)

Depends on the size of the chicken--I can't tell if there are small breeds (3 square feet) or banties (2 square feet) in the pic. And 33 isn't much more than 28, so just a few being smaller would make them "fit."

 

[aart]

Also, does anyone know why chickens do well in such cold temperatures? I know they have feathers but when I have tons of layers on Im still pretty cold so what makes them different.

Their feathers are perfectly arranged to hold in their 106°F body temp...
...unlike your layers, even if you have the best down coat.

@bobbi-j has the perfect analogy explaining why heat is not needed...
something like this:
put on all your winter gear, then sit next to the wood stove.