Winterizing/ventilating chicken coop

[CCash]

Hello!
I am new to the chicken scene and am about to experience my first winter with chickens in New England. I have New Hampshire Reds so they are cold hardy birds but I wanted to make sure I appropriately ventilate and winterize my coop.
Attached are the images of my coop that I was given by a friend. Their are two doors, one really big in the front (there is a doggy door I put on it to prevent a lot of rain and snow getting in which has been an issue) and a smaller one on the side. The smaller one hits directly on their perches so I have a plastic sheet on that side of the run to prevent heavy wind gusts.
I have a temperature gauge in the coop and it pretty much is consistent to the outdoors: if it is 15F and humidity 62 outside, that's what it appears to be inside the coop. I want to make sure they are warm and healthy especially since we are about to get our first big snowfall and the temps are dropping to the single digits next week!
I want to avoid a lightbulb in the coop if possible. Does anyone have any ideas how I can properly ventilate and winterize this coop? Should I cover the side door or would that prevent air flow... Should I partially cover the doors to prevent some of the cold?
Any help would greatly be appreciated! Sorry for long post...

 

[azygous]

Understanding the principles of wintertime threats to chickens will help you to address the few challenges they present.

-One is direct chilling drafts. You need to block those.
-The next is humidity. This contributes to condensation on services, one of which is combs and other exposed tissue, leading to frostbite.
-The third is ventilation. You want to combine adequate air circulation to avoid moisture condensing on surfaces while preventing direct chilling drafts that can threaten your chickens' ability to retain body heat.

Adding a heat source to a coop in winter without proper ventilation to permit good air circulation contributes to condensation. Therefore, adding heat in winter can be a dangerous proposition unless dealt with properly. Sometimes it's just better for your chickens to forget about trying to heat the coop.

 

[Hokum Coco]

about to experience my first winter with chickens in New England.

My method for dealing with winter is quite simple one extra feeder of whole corn. I live in Canada subject to -40º. I have 67 trips around the sun. I have raised various types of chickens and birds for decades.

TLC still has to be provided to birds that may not be adapting well to the diet. For the most part birds are vocal happy and do just fine. NO HEAT NO EXTRA LIGHT please and thank you works fine for me and my flock.

If for any reason you find it necessary to supply electricity to your coop via extension cord.

Please employ a "Ground Fault Outlet" also use a "Safety Chain" in conjunction to any heat lamp or incandescent bulb after mounting.
One coop fire is too many and these precautions could be the difference.

A simple action such as a rodent chewing on your extension cord could be the cause of a coop fire and a ground fault circuit could be the difference in witnessing your coop in tack or a pile of smoldering ash.

P.S. There are now a variety of ground fault extension cords available in major retail centers that also would be a wise investment.

 

[chickmom3941]

My method for dealing with winter is quite simple one extra feeder of whole corn. I live in Canada subject to -40º. I have 67 trips around the sun. I have raised various types of chickens and birds for decades.

TLC still has to be provided to birds that may not be adapting well to the diet. For the most part birds are vocal happy and do just fine. NO HEAT NO EXTRA LIGHT please and thank you works fine for me and my flock.

If for any reason you find it necessary to supply electricity to your coop via extension cord.

Please employ a "Ground Fault Outlet" also use a "Safety Chain" in conjunction to any heat lamp or incandescent bulb after mounting.
One coop fire is too many and these precautions could be the difference.

A simple action such as a rodent chewing on your extension cord could be the cause of a coop fire and a ground fault circuit could be the difference in witnessing your coop in tack or a pile of smoldering ash.

P.S. There are now a variety of ground fault extension cords available in major retail centers that also would be a wise investment.

I have a question about the corn you feed your chickens - is it the dried corn kernals you can buy as critter feed? I do feed my chickens fresh, soft corn, but was wondering if they can eat the hard dry kernals, as well. I'd appreciate your input - thanks.

 

[Hokum Coco]

is it the dried corn kernals you can buy as critter feed?

Yes exactly! WHOLE CORN has two main advantages over cracked corn in my opinion. I find it stores better than cracked corn. It only can be swallowed by larger birds which cuts down on wild birds in your run if you throw it out for a scratch grain.

My run is used as a compost bin. First I let the hens kill all the grass. Then I throw my grass clippings from my lawn tractor bagger all summer along with regular compost in there which attracts worm and bugs that my hens feed on. I then throw scratch grain in their from time to time and the chickens scratch and keep it aerated. In the spring I move my run and plant my tomatoes. I do not even bother to till the area the chickens have done it all and got my tomato plot ready.

Tomatoes grow so quickly I have to jump back after planting for fear of the plant growing so fast it will hit my chin and knock me out.

I find my method cuts down on the weeds in my tomato garden which makes my life that much easier. The following year I tend to plant carrots or root crops there which requires rows and tilling.

 

[NanaKat]

I agree with what others have said about ventilation, electric safety and corn.

You don't mention how many RIR you have nor the size of your coop. The birds will roost close together and will share heat. A 2x4 flat side up board for the roost will give them a stable surface for roosting where they can cover their feet with their feathers and tucking their heads under a wing helps cover their combs.

Good ventilation in winter is essential for reducing the condensation which causes frostbite.
A lot depends on how your coop is positioned in relation to the sun. A south facing open side will help warm the coop during the day and a solid side to the north will help block cold winds and blowing snow.
A draft is any direct airflow on the areas where the birds roost and lay eggs.
Good air flow means air that comes in has a way out. The outflow can be a screen vent near the roofline under the eave...or simple 1" holes drilled in a line along the top of a wall...preferably not on the north side of the coop.
Your plastic side will block a lot of wind and the dog door cover will also.

I find no need for heat sources or lights in my outside coops. In the barn, I have electricity and can provide heat in my brooder room for young birds. GFCI outlets are important. For my outside coops, I use single solar light bulbs that hang from the ceiling. They have an on off switch in case I need to check something at night.

Giving corn or grains like oats, black oil sunflower seeds and/or wheat give your birds something to slowly digest at night to increase their warmth.

Looks like you are using straw on the floor of your coop. Keeping it dry and fluffed helps insulate the floor from the cold. I also collect leaves in sacks and mix that with straw. Pine shavings are good too.

Good luck with your first winter. You obviously care about your birds!

 

[chickmom3941]

Yes exactly! WHOLE CORN has two main advantages over cracked corn in my opinion. I find it stores better than cracked corn. It only can be swallowed by larger birds which cuts down on wild birds in your run if you throw it out for a scratch grain.

My run is used as a compost bin. First I let the hens kill all the grass. Then I throw my grass clippings from my lawn tractor bagger all summer along with regular compost in there which attracts worm and bugs that my hens feed on. I then throw scratch grain in their from time to time and the chickens scratch and keep it aerated. In the spring I move my run and plant my tomatoes. I do not even bother to till the area the chickens have done it all and got my tomato plot ready.

Tomatoes grow so quickly I have to jump back after planting for fear of the plant growing so fast it will hit my chin and knock me out.

I find my method cuts down on the weeds in my tomato garden which makes my life that much easier. The following year I tend to plant carrots or root crops there which requires rows and tilling.

Thanks so much! Lots of food for thought in your methods. We're always looking for ways to improve our gardens and make our chickens happy at the same time. It's so neat the way they can benefit each other!
My apologies to CCash for hijacking this thread a bit. I didn't mean to change the topic - I've just been curious about corn, if the hard dry corn is okay to feed to chickens. Here in Minnesota, the ladies can always benefit from foods that help warm them up a bit.

 

[Folly's place]

Welcome CCash! Blocking wind on three sides of the run, or all four sides, as everyone mentioned already, rather than heating the coop.
Fresh unfrozen water; a heated base with a metal waterer, or a heated waterer, works well. Manage the electricity safely!
I do want to comment on your coop and run. This is your first year with chickens? I'd recommend that you greatly upgrade the safety of your coop and run, before your birds are killed!
Chicken wire is useless as a predator defense, only hardware cloth will do.
Any raccoon could open your coop latch!
Consider electric wire or rope around the run (see HowardE, and Premier1supplies.com) as a quick and effective fix against ground predators!
Corn as feed; it's a treat, and a good base diet is most important. your birds will eat more in winter, and it shouldn't just be more corn!
Mary

 

[lazy gardener]

Down side of electric fencing is that it simply is not practical during snow season! Is there a window in that coop? If not, I'd consider cutting one in, even a temporary one made of plexiglass, and screwed to the side. It's important to see to it that the birds are roosting far enough from the back wall and the ceiling so they don't get frost bite. Their respiration condenses on the ceiling above them and will then rain back down on them, making them very prone to frost bite. I recommend 15" from back wall and 18" below ceiling. I think your plastic strips will not work well to keep draft out of the coop. Welcome, and I wish you the best.

 

[theoldchick]

Here's some good info:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...s-not-to-do/&usg=AOvVaw35zw3SXAtOKWV59RoE1cuT


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...rd-chickens/&usg=AOvVaw1zLmHgHj1JPN3RioT5iRhT

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...g-the-Winter&usg=AOvVaw2TmbMHT17-x2WZ4qbnwbNu