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Discussion in 'Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures' started by slordaz, Sep 11, 2019.
I don't believe there's an egg withdrawal period for Corid, only for the dewormers.
these are pullets not eggs to withdraw thank heavens, next up is getting the last 2 dosed with de-wormer so can get on with the rest of the chores lol after battle with the last 2 feels more like nap time lol
all 6 have been dosed with valbazen this morning, and continuing with corid at tomorrow will be day 3, some mild improvement in all of them , poops are startng to look more normal, will do the 5 day as recommended then preventative for a few more days just to be sure. They are were all up and about and preening today but feathers are looking pretty ragged, so dusting with Sevin with tomorrows clean up.
Not to self Buff's are easy to give medicine too, Amerecaunas better plan on 2-3 hours if your trying to do it yourself and not as happy with the Sapphire gems they looked good said they were gentle, but a bit more aggressive than I like in the flock
Yeah, I like taking naps! zzzzzzz
Some birds are easier to worm orally than others. My Light Brahma's are a breeze. My EE struggles but eventually calms down. My JG is a real pain in the neck. The fight is on every time I worm her. I end up with more of the liquid on me lol. But I refill the syringe and make sure she gets wormed no matter how much it takes.
Still, it only takes me about 15 minutes to worm 7 birds. I used to have around 25 birds a long time ago and it took me about 20 minutes to worm them. Of course I had everything staged and ready to go including the chickens. I'm slowing down in my old age.
@Goatsanddogs That site, like all those that sing the praises of DE probably sell it.
DE is about 90% Silica, which is the most common element in the Earth's crust, and is basically the same thing as sand.
This is why I recommend putting sand in chicken pens, it helps deter pests/parasites, doesnt make nasty mud holes when it rains, dries quicker than dirt or mud, and doesnt wash away. Think beach. You dont feed sand to animals.
Veterinarians would make a mint if they sold DE for deworming animals, IF it WERE effective, more money in their pocket. There's only one problem, it doesnt get rid of internal parasites.
DE is a waste of money. But, it's your money!
You'll learn in time how ineffective DE is when your birds become lethargic and not eating/drinking. By then, it might be too late to save them.
Many of us here have been there, done that DE thing and learned the hard way like you will.
Because two of my hens are so difficult trying to catch I add worm treatment to water. These girls will act like I'm a predator for a week or two after trying to gather them up. My vet does not recommend adding anything to water because he feels some will get higher dose. Before doing so I did extensive reading and research and now feel confident with my decision. And it works. For Safeguard [Fenbendazole 10%] I put 1 1/2 TBL or 3cc[ml] in 1 gallon of water for 3 days in a row and I repeat in 3 weeks. If gapes are suspected it is recommended to repeat in 10 days. I follow-up with probiotic dose added to water afterwards. Their yearly stool test have always come back negative.
I used to do that as well, same as you're doing now. Actually it's ineffective. The reason is that the liquid goat wormer doesnt mix well in the water and settles, not to mention the dilution of the product making it ineffective in treating worms.
Your vet is correct. Also consider about the birds that drink LESS of the mixture, and not all birds drink the same amount.
You can do as I do. Go out early in the morning before dawn and snatch them off the roost one by one and worm them orally, then release them. This is effective because birds havnt eaten since the previous day. The worms havnt eaten and they'll be hungry too. You'll be feeding them the wormer and that'll knock them off for sure lol.
Cradle the bird in your forearm. Grab your pre-loaded syringe (without needle) with your free hand. Use your fingers and thumb on the hand you're cradling the bird and pull her wattles down and her mouth will open. If she shakes her head, hang on and she'll eventually tire. Then squirt the liquid in her mouth (no more than 1/2cc at a time.) Once you squirt the liquid in her mouth, IMMEDIATELY let go of the wattles so she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont let go of the wattles right away, she can aspirate, the liquid will go down the windpipe and then there would be big trouble.
Repeat this procedure until all birds are wormed. The liquid goat wormer may require more liquid depending on the weight of the bird. Remember, administer no more than 1/2cc orally at a time, letting go of the wattles, and letting her swallow the liquid on her own. Then you can administer the rest of the liquid.
I recommend that you do a "dry run," practice the cradling a bird, handling the wattles etc. That way you'll feel more comfortable worming them by yourself.
OR, you can get someone to hold the bird for you while you worm them.
ok on day 3 chicks are eating fine but refusing the water with corid in it drinking very minimal and they have no other water available, not seeing any more bloody poops, please advise, they are all doing pretty good after the valbazen , please advise up and active, worried they are refusing to drink the medicated water today a couple sips each all day long.
I have noticed mine looked depressed around day 4 or 5 when using Corid. I think because of the stronger dosage (0.024%). What percentage dose are you using? 0.024 or 0.012%.
After day 5 and changing to 0.006%, they dont seem to mind it as much. They should go back to drinking it again, just make sure there is no other water available. If for some reason they won't drink change to 0.012% and see if that helps.