WORMING with Fenbendazole - - How much?

[math ace]

Quote:
Chickens get worms by being chickens - - they get them from eating grasshoppers, earthworms, flys, etc. . . .

This is what UFL's web site says:

Prevention and control of worm infestations in backyard poultry flocks involves proper management of diet, sanitation, and treatment. Chickens need a proper diet, especially an adequate supply of vitamins A and the B complex. A deficiency in these has been shown to increase the susceptibility to parasitism.


1.Thorough removal of litter between flocks of chickens.

2.Keep litter as dry as possible.

3.Avoid overcrowding.

4.Keep wild birds, pigeons and other birds away from chickens. They may be infected and shedding the worm eggs.

5.Provide adequate drainage of ranges and move shelters frequently to decrease accumulation of droppings.

6.Keep birds off freshly plowed ground where ingestion of earthworms and other insects is more likely.

7.Use insecticides to control insect populations.

 

[briteday]

When you mix liquid fenbendazole with water be sure to shake/stir the water a few times each day. The fenbendazole is thick and heavy, will sink to the bottom of the bowl or container. You really want a fairly consistent suspension in the water to get good coverage. I tend to keep some 2 liter bottles around when I worm my birds. And I mix a couple up a few times each day, and then go out and re-fill the water bowls. There is quite a bit of waste. But unless you have tons of birds the bottle of goat wormer will last you for years.

 

[math ace]

Quote:
Very nice tip - - - I was going to mix it up this morning and run errands all day.

NOW, I think I will wait and worm them tomorrow when I will be home all day. Then I can do like you suggest and make sure it gets mixed up all day.

THANKS

 

[rancher hicks]

Quote:
Chickens get worms by being chickens - - they get them from eating grasshoppers, earthworms, flys, etc. . . .

This is what UFL's web site says:

Prevention and control of worm infestations in backyard poultry flocks involves proper management of diet, sanitation, and treatment. Chickens need a proper diet, especially an adequate supply of vitamins A and the B complex. A deficiency in these has been shown to increase the susceptibility to parasitism.


1.Thorough removal of litter between flocks of chickens.

2.Keep litter as dry as possible.

3.Avoid overcrowding.

4.Keep wild birds, pigeons and other birds away from chickens. They may be infected and shedding the worm eggs.

5.Provide adequate drainage of ranges and move shelters frequently to decrease accumulation of droppings.

6.Keep birds off freshly plowed ground where ingestion of earthworms and other insects is more likely.

7.Use insecticides to control insect populations.

Seems to me the average back yard poultry person does not have space enough to move their few birds around and some of us don't not have "between" flocks.

Keeping litter dry is not a problem.

Overcrowding is not a problem.

Don't have pigeons and have cats so wild birds are not a problem.

Have some turned over garden and bare spots that chickens make and dust. Throw lots of DE in dusting holes on dry days so birds get a good bath in it. I also spread it liberally in the coop and in nest boxes.

Under no circumstances am I using any pesticides in or around my yard or birds. Insecticides kill GOOD insects as well as the bad. I personally believe insecticides play a least some roll in the cause of the decreased honey bee and other bee population. Let me be clear I will NOT use pesticides in my yard.

I know there is a nematode stuff that can be used to kill parasites in the soil but don't know if it is harmful to chickens. I will have to do more research.

I also am not tossing eggs. I find doing so is rediculous and counter productive to the chicken keeper and beneficial to chemical companies who make this stuff. If I can't eat it then it can't be good. There has got to be a safer way to control worm populations. I don't expect to eradicate all worm but there has to be a safe environmental way to control them. I don't see any difference in my using chemicals that require me to toss eggs than commericial egg farms. I might as well save myself the trouble of having chickens and buy eggs from the store.

 

[math ace]

Aww Rancher Hicks -- -

- - it is all good. I'll still meet you in the morning for coffee.

 

[rancher hicks]

Quote:
Now just where did that saying "its all good" come from? Don't take my comments personal except that I would not buy eggs from folks who use chemicals that require them to toss out eggs.
As for coffee, only if it's starbucks.

Oh and it's got to be Kimodo Dragon.

 

[math ace]

I just got a pm from another BYC member who spoke to a poultry vet from her state.

He recommend a 2.25 ml dosage in a gallon of water for 3 days. Fenbendazole is a safe wormer that is very hard to overdose on. This being said, I think today I will start my birds on a 3 ml dosage and do the 3 day dosage.

My birds are going to be so mad! That means 3 days without free ranging. I don't plan on doing it a second time since I already did the wazine 11 days ago.

I like what briteday recommended - - - Shake, Shake, Shake your bottle - - you can do
Oh no, I think I just had a disco flash back

I purposely postponed the worming til today, so that I can shake up the water every couple of hours , , , ,
Lordy, I think my girls are surrounded with

and they don't even know it !

Thanks for all the help. . .

 

[math ace]

Day 1 - - complete and boy oh boy were my girls complaining! Everytime I went out there to shake up the water containing the de-wormer, they would squawk loudly and pace the fence line. True to my prediction - - the girls were upset that they were not getting to free range today!

Day 2 - - tomorrow. The girls do not have a short memory. I expect them to be even more fussy when they realize that I am not going to let them free range - AGAIN !

 

[rancher hicks]

Quote:
So this is what I intend to do. I'm going to get the paste. Mix 1oz. of the paste in water and mix it with the feed. (the thing is I don't think my birds eat 15-20lbs of feed in a day, could I use a 1/2 oz.?) Give it to half my flock and toss their eggs for 10days. Then after the ten days is up, treat the other flock with the same amount and toss their eggs for 10 days. At which time I'll keep the eggs from the first treated flock. Will that be ok? Now how long does this stuff stay in their system?

 

[rancher hicks]

I noticed that the UK has a product for worming called FLU BENDAZOLE , notice that its' similare in spelling to FEN BENDAZOLE. Are these the same? The UK Flubendazole or Flubenvetas it's labeled, has "no adverse affect on egg laying or hatching. It also has no egg withdrawal.

Can these be the same thing?