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Blue Roo said:
Ok I have 40 eggs in my bater I was wondering if somebody would tell me what the humidity needs to be the last three days of the hatch
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I read lots of different things about lockdown humidity. I tried to stay between 70 and 80% the last three days. I tried to not let it go over 80 at all. The four that made it to lockdown all hatched out today. I had 6 total but one was for sure an early quitter and I think the other one probably quit a while back but I wasn't sure so I left it in there. I would just read up on it a bit and see what method you like best, I may have just had a lucky first run :)
 
All four of my chicks hatched today! So far I don't see any problems with any of them, just healthy chicks. Then I thought well since I have the brooder out already and the farm supply has EE chicks I wanted, might as well get a few. Then I ended up getting a foster chick for carcar... Now I'm up to 9 in the brooder. Chicken math! AND I found a guy in my town with the BLRW chickens I want so bad! I just don't have $40 to spend on them after getting this other stuff together. Curse you budgets!
 
Lynn79 said:
I read lots of different things about lockdown humidity. I tried to stay between 70 and 80% the last three days. I tried to not let it go over 80 at all. The four that made it to lockdown all hatched out today. I had 6 total but one was for sure an early quitter and I think the other one probably quit a while back but I wasn't sure so I left it in there. I would just read up on it a bit and see what method you like best, I may have just had a lucky first run :)
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IMO, your lockdown humidity should be between 55-65% Once they start hatching, the humidity will shoot up and get too high and you may end up drowning your chicks in the shell. BYC has a hatching 101 section in the learning forum and you may want to read what they say. Good luck with all your eggs!
 
Missyktsm said:
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I used it a couple of times over the winter when I noticed a couple of my birds sneezing and the sneezing stopped. I also used it a few months ago when I noticed what looked like fowl pox on two of my roosters. It was right after the arctic freeze thing and I wasn't sure if it was pox or frost bite until one of rooster's eyes started swelling. I used it at full strength on the two affected roosters and then diluted it and treated the rest of the flock. Both Roos got treated for three days straight. The one with it in his eyes (Pearl) also got a dose of Tylan 50...I was very worried about him. All signs of fowl pox were gone in about a week! The only after affect is that Pearl lost some feathers on his head around a place that had scabbed over. Honestly, I'm a brand new chicken keeper and had no idea what to do for them and couldn't find much info on the dry pox. I'm not sure how long they'd had it because i was away from home for two weeks and DH was taking care of the birds...he has no idea to look for things like that. It was truly a shot in the dark but luckily it worked. The VetRX seems to be like a chicken Vicks and clears the little respiratory issues up pretty well. I like it but then again, I'm a complete nube.
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Thanks for the info! :)
 
Lynn79 said:
All four of my chicks hatched today! So far I don't see any problems with any of them, just healthy chicks. Then I thought well since I have the brooder out already and the farm supply has EE chicks I wanted, might as well get a few. Then I ended up getting a foster chick for carcar... Now I'm up to 9 in the brooder. Chicken math! AND I found a guy in my town with the BLRW chickens I want so bad! I just don't have $40 to spend on them after getting this other stuff together. Curse you budgets!
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WhooHoo!!!
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So the runner we got about two weeks ago has been doing awesome, hes a cute little snuggle duck but I'm really concerned about his new feathers. It looks like the the shafts of the feathers are up over the rest of the feathers with little tips of black poking out of the little tubes. I don't know what kind of environment he was in before we got him but I'm wondering if it's a calcium problem. He goes INSANE whenever I try to move them around to get a better look. This could be normal and I may just be acting like the over protective mamma duck that I am but I just really want to be sure my little one is doing okay! I would really appreciate any extra info just in case this happens again!
 
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Blue Roo said:
Ok the eggs in my bater are marans eggs does that make any differance
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Flowerbh touched on my concern, so I will go ahead and explain it.

A user here on BYC named Pete55 wrote a guide about it. In the guide, he explains that an egg actually has to LOSE a certain amount of weight before hatching. All of the weight lost is moisture weight. If the egg does not lose that weight, when the chick goes to make an internal pip, it is still surrounded by too much fluid, and the chick drowns inside of it's own shell. And when a chick attempts to make that internal pip, it can no longer rely on fluid-based oxygen to support it's developing body, so they must breathe air to get oxygen.

Obviously, if their nose and beak are still soaked in fluid, that is not possible. So the chick dies.

Of course, we all know it's possible to have the humidity too low during hatch as well, and the chick becomes shrink-wrapped or glued inside of the shell. This is why a lower humidity is suggested prior to lockdown, to keep the moisture inside of the membrane fairly low. But during hatch, we tend to raise the humidity to keep moisture up and prevent shrink-wrapping or gluing.

But it MY experience, and with this knowledge, another issue comes with very high humidity during lockdown - condensation. The air cell doesn't have blood vessels in it, so it stays cooler. So the moisture in there builds faster, and still causes problems for internal pip.

Because of this, I don't want lockdown humidity to be too far above 50%. I'm actually virtually giving up on dry hatch, because I don't want a sudden humidity increase to create too much condensation inside that aircell.
 

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