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gawildlife said:
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DO NOT BUY THOSE TSC TRAPS!

I repeat do not buy TSC traps. They are lightweight pieces of junk that will not hold what it catches. I have trapped for a living for the last ten years i know traps and trapping. Every TSC trap of my experience has been ripped open by raccoons and armadillos (from the inside to get free) or dog, coyotes and raccoons (from the outside to get to the trapped opossum, cat or squirrel inside) often on the very first catch but never later than the third.
Not only will you waste your money but you'll educate animals on how to defeat traps.
The next level up is light duty traps at homecheapo/loweball/wallyworld but we in the business call them havajunk trap for a reason. They used to be solid traps, twenty years ago, but now need strengthening and reinforcing right out of the box but can work for light duty use but NEVER EVER FOR ARMADILLOS.
Now if you want to get good traps look for safeguard or tomahawk. Safeguard has standard and pro models, as does tomahawk. Other quality brands include Duke and Williams.

The best bar none is made right here in Moultrie, Georgia. Pricey but I feed my family with my traps.

www.advancedtrap.com[/quot]
what bait can be used to trap armadillos?
 
Grubs or set the trap out in your yard and use long 2x6, 2x8, or 2x10's to make a giant funnel leading into the trap then wait for it to rain.
 
X2 on the funnels. As for bait I've tried it all over the years and use none as no bait has been proven effective. A lure if ever developed would work and that lure is diller funk. Time again I catch more diller in cages that recently held a diller so I now season my cages by rotating dillers cage to cage until that all have that certain diller taint.
Also to improve the odds gang setting with multiple traps is SOP for me. As for locations you are looking for travel routes where the diller is moving at speed and more likely to walk right in. Not in an area of feeding or where to diller is not moving or just milling around. Ideally between a known feeding area and the area of approach. Often you can determine direction of travel by the digging, the "point" of the hole will be the direction the diller was facing with dirt kicked to the rear. If you go out at dawn with dew on the ground you may even see it's trail.
Now that you have travel routes look for the bottlenecks or pinch points along the route. Use them to your advantage. Incorporate them into your funnels so that you are channeling the diller into the trap. As for funnels I use plastic mesh screening. I buy the 1" mesh 4'x50' roll then rip it into 1' sections giving me four 1' tall by 50' long panels for my funnels. To make the funnel I staple the mesh to grade stakes I drive into the ground, be sure the mesh is pulled tight and stays taut. Another use for the mesh is to fence off areas to sensitive for trapping or to force him into ares more favorable for trapping.
Once caught transfer the diller to your other cages so all are "lured". You can also make a thin plywood bottom to go in the cage and just rotate bottoms until all are funded up. This way also allows you to store the lured plywood pieces in a sealed bag for future use.
Now onto cages, use the best and strongest you can purchase. Pound for pound dillers are probably the strongest critter that walks in Georgia. They have two modes of attack to free themselves from cages. Most commonly used on traps with slant doors is to wedge under the door and brute force it up until something fails. Next attack is to hook those long front claws in the wire and give a tug. I recommend safeguard/tomahawk level or better. Even then I once had a safeguard that had the back end near about turned inside out like a sock. Do not use the big box havajunks as the doors will fail under pressure.
There I just gave the class I usually get paid to present at industry events. Good luck.
 
Need feedback!!! Do I keep the rooster that's protective of the flock but doesn't have any interest in reproducing. (Also known to be aggressive toward ppl, not me) or the rooster that is not aggressive toward ppl but has severely hurt the hens bc all he wants to do is reproduce. One hen has 2 deep gashes ive had to treat.
 
Let me guess the aggressive breeder is a RIR. If so that's a trait of the breed and good if you are hatching eggs bad if your not. I assume you're running these cocks together. If so the "not interested" cock is probably the subordinate to the aggressive one. This often happens where one cock becomes the dominant breeder and lesser cocks become his guards or defenders. I see it in wild turkeys as well and some theorize this buddy program is a way to pass on genes by allowing one to breed freely without having to constantly defend himself.
It wouldn't surprise me though if the aggressive breeder were to be removed the "not interested" bird might suddenly become interested. Give it a shot and see.
 
@gawildlife yes you called it. The RIR is the dominate breeder. The EE roo is aggressive defender of the flock. I need to get rid of one but not sure which to send away. They are both doing their jobs well. My 7 yr old is terrified of the EE. But my poor hens are taking a beating from the rir
 
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I've seen that exact scenario many times over with those exact breeds. EE birds generally are calmer and fall to the subordinate slots in flock pecking order. As for aggression to people I found it to be rare and when I did it was usually something similar to what you're experiencing. I would guess the EE is just needing an outlet for his natural aggression since the hens are off limits to him. Get rid of the RIR and I bet his people aggression subsides as he gets busy elsewhere. That's been my experience as well.
FWIW, while I like the production quality of the RIR I absolutely despise the aggressive traits of both cock and hen. The hens can be vicious to each other in establishing pecking order and will bully the weakest hens to the point of cannibalism. I won't have one on the place for that reason.
 

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