Coop questions... please help :)

I would first work on increasing ventilation. As is it would be measured in square inches...you need at least 1 square foot per bird. Can the upper boards just under the roof be removed/cut? You may need to add flashing for rain protection.
Yes, I could easily cut squares out along the back roof line like this & hardware cloth over them. Not sure what you mean about flashing? Do you mean like little roofs above the cut outs? The back side of the coop will be away from 95% of wind & also under the edge of the run roof so should be ok as far as rain goes, I think?

Also, if I cut these same pieces one the front of the run, it will definitely blow right on the roosts. Being on the side that gets the most wind, I’d think that would be a really bad call, right? Maybe vents in the peaks on the sides as well?
 

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I had a little more time to make a diagram. Here's some ideas:

If you want to go with a poop board, keep the shelf and add a tray with PDZ. 2x4 across the door side as a support and 2x4 roosts going across. Make sure the roosts are at least 12" from the side wall and from each other, to keep poop on the board and not on the birds or walls. (white lines)

Put some removable boards across the sides where the doors open, to hold in the litter when you open the doors. You want them removable so you can clean out easily. Height of these boards depends on how deep you want your litter. (blue lines)

I agree to put your nest boxes (2 or 3) bumped out on the short side, perhaps under the poop board to give the birds more of a sense of privacy. Hinge this type of nest box on the side for access rather than the roof, to prevent leaking.

D117BF2A-01EE-49BB-B06E-4388D6256698.jpeg


Ventilation. This is often the trickiest part of a smallish coop because you have to deal with both summer and winter (unless you live, like I do, in a place that is basically mostly summer all year).

A couple top hinged windows on the doors is great for summer, when the birds would actually welcome drafts. For all year ventilation, my idea would be to remove the entire uppermost board on the high side of the coop and hardware cloth it. I know you have been saying 1/4" but most here use 1/2" because it is stronger. Then build an awning for weather protection. This is a good sturdy one, but it can be made out of other things as well:

Vent Protection from Blowing Snow

You may find you need even more ventilation. In that case, take from as high as you can, such as the top triangles of the side walls. They too would have to have an awning.

Good luck and keep us posted on the progress!

A821ECA8-D591-4A7F-B71A-5D5F8F8135A0.jpeg
 
I had a little more time to make a diagram.
Thank you!
Here's some ideas:

If you want to go with a poop board, keep the shelf and add a tray with PDZ. 2x4 across the door side as a support and 2x4 roosts going across. Make sure the roosts are at least 12" from the side wall and from each other, to keep poop on the board and not on the birds or walls. (white lines)
This is helpful! I didn’t know they could be the same height
Put some removable boards across the sides where the doors open, to hold in the litter when you open the doors. You want them removable so you can clean out easily. Height of these boards depends on how deep you want your litter. (blue lines)
I hadn’t thought of this either
I agree to put your nest boxes (2 or 3) bumped out on the short side, perhaps under the poop board to give the birds more of a sense of privacy. Hinge this type of nest box on the side for access rather than the roof, to prevent leaking.
Not sure what you mean by hinge on the side. I’ll research further.
Ventilation. This is often the trickiest part of a smallish coop because you have to deal with both summer and winter (unless you live, like I do, in a place that is basically mostly summer all year).

A couple top hinged windows on the doors is great for summer, when the birds would actually welcome drafts. For all year ventilation, my idea would be to remove the entire uppermost board on the high side of the coop and hardware cloth it. I know you have been saying 1/4" but most here use 1/2" because it is stronger.
Oh! I didn’t know that..I thought 1/4” was better!
And yes, I think we’ll add at least one cut out window with a top hinge closure.

Thanks so much fv or all the detailed thoughts & ideas! Very helpful 😊
 
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This is helpful! I didn’t know they could be the same height
Some people have found that having roosts all the same height leads to fewer squabbles for the "top," most desirable, spots. In your coop, since it is kinda short, and you want to keep the birds below the ventilation, there is not really much height for a ladder style set up anyway.
Not sure what you mean by hinge on the side. I’ll research further.
Most prefab coops with an exterior nest box have a nest box "roof" that is hinged. In other words, you lift the top to access the eggs. Not only can this get heavy, but it is an endless cause of problems with leaking at the hinge, unless there is significant roof overhang to protect the hinge.

Much easier to hinge the side of the nest box. Just remember you need a lip to keep the eggs and nest material from falling out when you open the side door. Like this (courtesy of DobieLover). Since your nest box will be outside the coop, remember the nest box roof should have some overhang, otherwise even this format can leak with blowing wind.

nest box open.jpg

Thanks so much fv or all the detailed thoughts & ideas! Very helpful 😊
You are welcome! I love building stuff!
 
Some people have found that having roosts all the same height leads to fewer squabbles for the "top," most desirable, spots. In your coop, since it is kinda short, and you want to keep the birds below the ventilation, there is not really much height for a ladder style set up anyway.

Most prefab coops with an exterior nest box have a nest box "roof" that is hinged. In other words, you lift the top to access the eggs. Not only can this get heavy, but it is an endless cause of problems with leaking at the hinge, unless there is significant roof overhang to protect the hinge.

Much easier to hinge the side of the nest box. Just remember you need a lip to keep the eggs and nest material from falling out when you open the side door. Like this (courtesy of DobieLover). Since your nest box will be outside the coop, remember the nest box roof should have some overhang, otherwise even this format can leak with blowing wind.

View attachment 3068384

You are welcome! I love building stuff!
Oh! Yes, that makes sense...I had planned on the top hinge style, but this looks easier. Thanks for the visual!
I actually had an idea about extending the height of the coop, and flipping it around. Will take pics and try to illustrate later, to get opinions. I think it will allow for more ventilation space, better weather protection for nesting boxes, and a better overall design. (Hopefully).
Will be back later!
 
Oh! Yes, that makes sense...I had planned on the top hinge style, but this looks easier. Thanks for the visual!
I actually had an idea about extending the height of the coop, and flipping it around. Will take pics and try to illustrate later, to get opinions. I think it will allow for more ventilation space, better weather protection for nesting boxes, and a better overall design. (Hopefully).
Will be back later!
You know, I had forgot that your original post said the roof was hinged! It would be super easy to take off the roof, frame an extension to the wall height, and reattach the roof. Good thinking!

The extension should be almost entirely ventilation all the way around the top. Attach some top hinged awnings to each of the four sides that can be open all the way in summer and adjusted to close down a lot (but not all the way) in the winter.

It is really a nice starter structure, like I said - lots of potential. The only thing I don't like about it is that the roof doesn't have much in the way of overhangs, a common problem even with shed conversions. But awnings can solve that problem.
 

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