Fuzzy's Notes

By fuzzybutt love · Oct 12, 2012 · Updated Jul 29, 2014 · ·
  1. fuzzybutt love
    While roaming around BYC i often come across really great info on health and breeds, but since i read so much i then lose it!

    I am making this so that when i answer questions i have a place to go where all my info is saved in one spot.

    If you are reading this i hope that you find this as helpful as i did :)


    Emergencies, Vets who see chickens in MI

    yellow pages lookup by town/ city for avian vets in MI http://www.yellowpages.com/grand-rapids-mi/avian-veterinarian

    Columbia Hospital for Animals in Battle Creek and we see birds on regular basis.

    Here's a link of avian friendly vets in MI: http://www.avianweb.com/recommendedvets.htm#MICHIGAN
    Also, one of the vets here has chickens, so... http://foresthillsvet.com/meet-our-team.html


    Preventative Care, Nutrition, Hygiene, etc.
    understanding chicken behavior VERY IMPORTANT! http://www.backyardpoultrymag.com/issues/1/1-2/Harvey_Ussery.html
    Using fresh herbs for your chickens

    Ideas to keep things sanitary in the coop

    chicken diapers, for sick birds or house pets
    http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/search/label/chicken saddle

    pvc-type waterer, heater accessory also www.chickenfountain.com

    not chickens, but useful http://www.diamonddove.info/bird04_Living.htm

    easy covered run, for safety https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/386902/we-gave-the-chickens-our-bedroom-pic-heavy
    Breed / Color Notes


    genetics, with pics


    Silkies in MI



    Starbright farm- Michigan (MI orloff breeder)


    Hatching Notes

    i found this thread, this gal is a crazy note taker! She did a good job of documenting what to do with shipped eggs

    this thread is for the little giant incubation specifically, there are threads for different kinds of incubators to troubleshoot the kinds of glitches each one has

    **How to calibrate a thermometer, Quote "Marty", little giant thread:

    "every thermometer is different. You can test them, though, to find out how far off they are. Get a glass of ice, and put in just enough water to reach the top of the ice. Put in your thermometer for 2 minutes. AT that time, it should read 32 degrees. Anything higher or lower is how far off you are. Just go mark the idea temp with a marker on your thermometer, and your all set. Its a food safety technique"
    How to calibrate a hydrogometer, Quote "C Mom" little giant thread
    "To calibrate a hygrometer you will need:

    1/2 cup table salt
    approximately 1/4 cup water
    coffee cup
    large resealable freezer bag

    Place 1/2 cup of salt in the coffee cup, and add the water. Stir for a bit to totally saturate the salt. The salt won't dissolve in this amount of water; instead, the salt should have the consistency of wet sand.

    Carefully place the cup containing the salt/water mix in a resealable plastic bag. Place the hygrometer in the bag, away from the cup of salt and water. Note: make sure none of the salt/water mix comes in direct contact with the hygrometer, or the hygrometer may be damaged. Completely seal the bag.

    Place the sealed bag aside at room temperature for 8-12 hours. Pick a location free of drafts, out of direct sunlight, and away from heating or cooling vents. The temperature should be fairly constant.

    After being in the sealed bag for 8-12 hours, check the reading of the hygrometer. It is best to read it while still in the bag, since if your house air is dry the reading may go down quickly once you take the hygrometer out of the bag.

    The relative humidity in the sealed bag with the salt/water mix should be 75 percent.

    If yours is the adjustable type, adjust the screw or setting so that it would have read 75 percent. You will have to do this very quickly, or remember how much you need to adjust the setting (e.g. for mine, it read 72 percent when it should have been 75 percent, so I would need to set it ahead by 3 percentage points). You may want to put the hygrometer back in the bag for another 8 hours to double check your adjustment.

    If yours is not adjustable (like mine), simply make a note of how "off" your hygrometer reads. If it reads below 75 percent, you will need to add the difference to your actual readings. If your hygrometer read above 75 percent on the calibration, you will need to subtract the difference from your actual reading. Here are some examples to help:
    Case 1: after sitting in the bag for calibration, my hygrometer read 72 percent. It should have read 75 percent, so the difference is 3 percent. I will now add 3 percent to the readings I take on the hygrometer (e.g. in a tank) to get the actual relative humidity.
    Case 2: after calibrating in the bag, a hygrometer read 80 percent. It should have read 75 percent, a difference of 5 percent. I would have to subtract 5 percent from readings when using the hygrometer to get an accurate relative humidity.

    Remember: always give a hygrometer about 2 hours to stabilize before taking a reading, as changes in the relative humidity may take a while to register accurately on a hygrometer."

    **Checking the progress of the hatch, adjusting humidity according to development

    "The air cell should get larger the longer they are set. Were these eggs shipped? If so, the air cells could be on the side, making it difficult to find it. Also, since you say that some of them are blue, that would also make them more difficult to see.

    You can actually kind of judge how 'far along' the egg is by the size of the air cell.....

    Candling pics


    The Actual Hatch
    For my last hatch, i set a dozen eggs. 4 didn't develop, and only 2 of the remaining ones didn't make it. This is my set-up
    *I put a tiny pint jar in each of the corners, to hold heat evenly.
    *I cut the top off the egg carton, so that there were half-cups. Big end up on the eggs, and let them set for 24 hours before incubating. I turned on the 'bator and let it come to temp while i was waiting for the eggs to "settle".
    *I calibrated the thermometer, and set it into the bator to come to temp. I cut 2- 2x4 inch sections of egg carton material to set into the 2 jars in the front, so that later when i put the water in through the top holes, they would help to boost the humidity. Calibrated hydrogometer.
    *Next day i set the eggs in the bator, and did nothing for 24 hours. The warming unit on the top of the bator is in a "U", so i put the carton long ways to each side of the "U", and put the hydrogometer in the top of the "U". Put in 2 old fashioned thermostats, bulb at each end. No turning, no fussing with temp. Just let them come to temp :) I put a couple Tb water in the groove to start, no more as i was doing a dry hatch. Taped the thing shut, to hold temp and humidity better, lessen the odds of me messing with things.
    *Started "turning." the next day. I propped an end up, turned eggs end-to-end instead of side-to-side. (I figured it was more natural temp-wise that way). "Turned" once at noon, 3, and 6 pm to start. Started out incubating with both plugs in, and used each of the plugs and sometimes a towel over top of the bator to adjust temps up and down, used an air conditioner to keep room temp steady when it fluctuated too much.
    * I only opened twice, for the 1 week and the 2 week candle.
    * A couple days before day 18 i started turning more, and on day 18 I bumped the humidity up to 60% I put an inch of water in each of the 2 front mason jars, through the little lid holes, and waited to see what the reading was. Later in the day i squirted water into the grooves on the bottom of the bator to get the correct humidity. (I suggest waiting to see where it is reading before dumping it all in at once, so you don't drown them with too high a humidity!!!)

    I used a clean mustard style bottle to get the water into the tiny holes.

    day 21!!!


    Egg autopsies, for those that didn't make it. Sad, but helps to fine tune your process so that you don't make the same mistake twice :(


    boy or girl? http://www.backyardpoultrymag.com/issues/6/6-3/determining_sex_in_chicks.html

    Chicks, Diseases and helps




    **Shipping stress/ not as vigerous
    Make sugar water. About a spoon in a glass of water is good. Pour the water into a clean pop bottle cap (Carbonation will explode them!) and dip the beak in. Make sure to not put the water level to where the nose holes are! Quickly tip bird back, chickens tip their beaks straight up to swallow. Keep dipping until you feel a little bubble where their gullet is; top left looking at them. :)

    Do this the first day, off and on until you see them drinking on their own. Drinking is more important than eating at first, especially if you hatched your own. New hatchings don't need to eat or drink the first 3 days. Eating before drinking can lead to constipation!

    If you have a special needs chick that isn't eating well, mash some crumbles with a spoon into a fine powder. wet it to an almost drippy paste with warm water, and dip to feed same as above. A little yoghurt or oil in the feed will help in the event the chick is constipated :)

    **Failure to thrive possibly linked with coccidiosis?

    You must provide sand/ small grade grit (bigger grit as they grow) if you feed anything but crumbles, they need it to break down the food in their gizzards


    Worms and Lice!

    http://healthybirds.umd.edu/Disease/Deworming Birds.pdf
    GAPEWORM - to check to be sure they have it, hold them in your lap, and take a Q-tip - open their mouth, then gently and slowly push the q-tip back into the back of their mouth, whle rotating it. Do the same when bringing it back out. If they have gapes, you'll see them on the q-tip (they are very small/thin and appear to have TWO heads).

    Leg Mites,
    easiest is to get "red cote spray", works in a jiffy.

    or if you have permethrin on hand already:
    For leg mites i mix 1 part permethrin with 1 part partially melted vasaline.

    The only hesitation i have is the dosage, since that is for a big bird. For such a tiny banty i would use only 1 part permethrin to 2 parts vasaline, see if that works first.
    The day before i do it i wash the legs, smear plain vasaline up into the scales, and let it soften (If it's a bad case) Then the day of i take a toothpick and GENTLY pick as much of the mite crud out of the scales as i can without hurting (again, if it's a bad case where the scales are raised) This helps the meds penetrate better.
    Then i go to treating, smear the medicated vasaline UP into the scales on the whole leg, toes and all. This treatment not only smothers the mites, it kills them on contact. I have done it on new birds, and it seems to work in one treatment! You can do it again in a week if it makes you feel better :) Another option would be to use olive oil instead of the vasaline, that may be better for the showing since it won't be as sticky.

    This hen's scales were all standing straight up, this is a month after the treatment. All but a couple scales had layed back down, it took a bit of time for them to lay flat again because of how bad it had been. :( There are instructions that come with the bottle for making poultry spray, if you have wood roosts i would spray them as well just to be sure the little buggers are really gone.


    Ivermectin dosing for doing bugs and worms all at once


    Adult birds, Diseases

    article "my chicken has a cold, part II" http://www.shagbarkbantams.com/ib.htm

    Bumblefoot. :(

    Disease, diagnostic help
    A must-have! Very helpful to have on hand and covers every subject related to chicken care:
    ********** http://www.amazon.com/Chicken-Health-Handbook-Gail-Damerow/dp/0882666118[​IMG] ****************
    (a poop chart of sorts, and very good explanations of what's normal and what to look for to help with diagnosing disease)

    LOOK UP DISEASE BY NAME HERE http://www.thepoultrysite.com/diseaseinfo/
    AND HERE http://poultrykeeper.com/poultry-diseases/

    http://www.apa-abayouthpoultryclub.... SYMPTOMS FOR DIAGNOSING POULTRY DISEASES.pdf

    COCCIDIOSIS Some experts say they are killed by extreme cold (below zero) High heat (above 104) and dryness. Dryness is key because they need the moisture for the spores. Spores are viable for re-infection within 24 hours. The best way to get immunity is from several minimal exposures; a sudden exposure to too much (i.e. large flock's worth of droppings) will permanently scar large portions of the intestines. SO disinfect at least every 24 hours while bird is developing immunity. Bleach will disinfect at 1 cup per gallon water. (Also kills mycoplasma). Depending on which type of cocci the bird is infected with and how many it ate at once will determine the severity. Some types with overexposure will kill quickly or permanently scar intestines severely. Whew. (but in a clean run establishment this is more rare)
    (good for IB too)


    Disease, medication

    Disease, dosing charts
    http://www.xtremegamebirds.com/Dosage Chart.html

    Necropsies, MI
    Dr Mick [email protected]
    call 1-517-353-3701

    4125 Beaumont 7:30------5:30

    End of Life, culling for pets:
    carbon dioxide gasmethod for small animal euthanization to make them "fall asleep"

    Use a cooler with hardware cloth folded to keep her off the bottom and put a lot of baking soda in the bottom, wrap her in a towel and feed her treats while she gets used to sitting in the cooler. To put her to sleep you pour white vinegar onto the baking soda ( she is propped up on the hardware cloth so she won't get wet.) If you only do a little vinegar at a time the co2 slowly fills the cooler from the bottom up and the hen just gets drowsy and falls asleep. The lid can even be cracked and she can be petted until she is sleeping comfortably. At that point you add a lot more vinegar and shut the lid.

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  1. SpeckledHills
    Thanks for sharing this collection!!! Very helpful!
  2. chickwhispers
    Thanks Fuzzy! Love it! I am going to remember this page! I am going to go through and look over the pages I haven't been to yet and make a few mental notes! Thanks for putting it all out there in one convenient location!
  3. M.sue
    When in doubt I go to Michigan Thread Members.....Always works for me! This is great and answered some questions I had. Hope all is well on the thread with everyone. I haven't been on but always go there for advice when needed!!
  4. NovaAman
    Fuzzy, another thing I found for the leg mites that works really really well is Red Kote spray. It's oil based, easy to apply for EVERYONE. It is also an antiseptic, antibacterial, so added benefit. Used it on 2 of my girls, and WOW, cleared up the leg mites fast.
      fuzzybutt love likes this.
  5. fuzzybutt love
    I keep updating as i find things, so keep checking back :)
  6. BobBry
    Not sure, but I don't think I thanked you for this thread. Thank you for this thread ! Seems like most who come here will benefit.
  7. chicken grandma
    WOW! Fuzzy, I have looked more than once through your posts for information to print and share with my chicken friends near me. THIS IS GREAT!

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