When they are
Q8 mentioned putting them on lockdown one day earlier, which is probably a good idea. I'd also agree, keep your hatcher at the same temp as the incubator.
I think someone on this thread (whoever was weighing their eggs, sorry I just woke up and can't remember) mentioned having better success with eggs that had lost more weight, suggesting that the lower humidity they were using (I want to say 40%) was working better for their eggs. I was using 50% humidity here and having terrible hatches, and I lowered it to 30% for the first 10-15 days and 60% the last days until lockdown at 75% and had wayyyy better hatch rates.
With hatching eggs, if you leave the humidity too high they don't have enough water loss to give them the room to turn (alternately, if you don't give them enough humidity, they lose too much water to have the slick moisture they need to turn). So, take a look at your unhatched eggs and try to determine if it looks like the malpositioned ones couldn't make it to the air sac for one of those reasons. Like Q8 said, if the air sacs look really large (and additionally if the membranes are no longer translucent, if the membranes are wrinkled, and if the moisture inside is more snotty than drippy) then you will want to increase your humidity. If you open your eggs and there membrane is semi-translucent, smoother, and there's a lot of drippy, somewhat sticky liquid inside the membrane, you may want to decrease the humidity.
Best of luck!
Thanks. I will open vents didn't know that part. Adjust temperature. The air sacks are saddle shape on the one that didn't pipe. The others that get beak out air sack is gone. May try to lower humidity in incubator to 40% is 75-80% to high for hatchery?