A century of Turkey talk 2000-2100.

I'll have to try that. Thank you
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hubby has already agreed to help me do a total overhaul to it once we finally shut it down later on this year. I think we'll probably replace ask the old wiring and the switches that go with the wafers.

I have to admit that I was terrified the first time that I realized that I had over 100 eggs in this thing that I would be stuck with 100 poults and chicks. I'm happy to say that they're flying out almost as fast as they hatch
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I told hubby about that the other day and he just said, he wasn't worried, but then, he never had any idea how many were in it and he wants to keep it that way lol.

I wanted to let you know, I caught Sunny (CCL BOY) attempting to mate for the first time today. He went after one of the ameraucana hens who promptly chased him the other direction but he came back and tried again lol. It's so funny when they start trying and learning.
Someone mentioned the "snap switch" and that is the little black or brown box that the wafer presses against (3006 22amp Thermostat Switch at cutler supply - about $11 + shipping). I'm thinking the front one is defective and when it gets pushed in by the wafer (and turn off the heat) that it no longer snaps back when the wafer pulls back. You could probably see this if you look when it is misbehaving, but the process I laid out will prove if that is the case by making the problem go away. You could still set the front one to 102 if you want the peace of mind of having the safety in place, the prob is you have to get the temp up to 102 to set it, so I would just open the front one all the way (so it will never hit the switch), and use the back one only to control the temp. Assuming that works and the temps are held accurately, you could but a replacement switch sometime. From the part description it sounds like the old style ones could be damaged by power surges, but the new style have some protection built in.

Alternatively, if you can get by with the back one until the season is over, you could replace that front thermostat with a digital one of some sort.
 
I love my 1202, I really do but this thing is having issues. I think it needs an overhaul. Last night, we're sitting here watching a movie and I happen to look over and my temperature thing is down to 75. I knew it wasn't that low for long because I had looked a little while ago. Hubby told me to try smacking it so I did and the light kicked back on and the temp was back up in no time so I'm assuming the eggs were still very warm. It was good at 10 last night when we went to bed. Got up at 6 this morning and the two is down to 69! Took another smack or two to kick back on. This time, it's taking forever to get back up to temp. All the eggs are cold
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I think I'm going to move the next batch of eggs to the hatcher a day early and biweekly they're ok. I'm guessing it must have a loose wire in there or something. What kills me is I have a bunch of eggs coming this week from dheltzel and orders that will be decimated if these eggs don't make it. GAAAA!


I agree with R2elk ( again) Sounds like a wafer going bad. If you do not have one I would order one now. It is a bad time to put the electronic one in.

If I had to chose between eggs going hot or cold, I would take cold every time. The hatch maybe delayed by a day or two so do not worry on hatch day if none hatch.
 
Dhetzel has some great ideas Just make sure you have places for the eggs if you cannot solve the problem fast once you start it. Even if it is something as simple as a heat lamp or heating pad. Error on the low side not high side with temps if you do those things..

Good luck!
 
Someone mentioned the "snap switch" and that is the little black or brown box that the wafer presses against (3006 22amp Thermostat Switch at cutler supply - about $11 + shipping). I'm thinking the front one is defective and when it gets pushed in by the wafer (and turn off the heat) that it no longer snaps back when the wafer pulls back. You could probably see this if you look when it is misbehaving, but the process I laid out will prove if that is the case by making the problem go away. You could still set the front one to 102 if you want the peace of mind of having the safety in place, the prob is you have to get the temp up to 102 to set it, so I would just open the front one all the way (so it will never hit the switch), and use the back one only to control the temp. Assuming that works and the temps are held accurately, you could but a replacement switch sometime. From the part description it sounds like the old style ones could be damaged by power surges, but the new style have some protection built in.

Alternatively, if you can get by with the back one until the season is over, you could replace that front thermostat with a digital one of some sort.

I agree with @dheltzel that it definitely could be the snap switch but just because you replaced the wafers a month ago does not mean that it can't be the wafer. Wafers can last a long time or they can go bad very quickly. GFQ sells the wafer and snap switch as a package or separately.

Good luck.
 
@dheltzel It started doing temp again this afternoon so I did what you said and turned the front one all the way up and set the back one. It's running good so far. I'll be moving eggs into lockdown tomorrow so maybe I'll switch out the wafer in the front one and reset it to see if it does it again. Then I'll have a pretty good idea if it's the wafer or switch.
 
Think I'm about to get my first turkey egg for the season.

Hen has been walking around brush piles. She has gone in and out of a doghouse several times.

Once when she was out looked in and she has made straw into a depression.

Now she is just in there setting.

Only problem not whete she needs to be.

If I get an egg will be 3 weeks earlier than last year.

Gotta finish the pens. No excuses now.
 
@dheltzel It started doing temp again this afternoon so I did what you said and turned the front one all the way up and set the back one. It's running good so far. I'll be moving eggs into lockdown tomorrow so maybe I'll switch out the wafer in the front one and reset it to see if it does it again. Then I'll have a pretty good idea if it's the wafer or switch.

I would assume it is the switch and leave it alone, you should be able to hatch fine the rest of the season with the back thermostat only.
 

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