Adding heat to coop in winter?

[gtaus]

Oh my gosh!! That's COLD!!

The only people I know in this area that did not lose birds last year from that cold stretch had heated barns for their chickens. Loss is expected in extreme weather, but I think you are right in thinking about how to minimize the impact. I only have 10 birds, so a little Cozy Coop heater in the coop might be the difference in saving a hen or two, I hope.

The other thing I look at is the cost. Running a Cozy Coop heater at 200 watts would cost me $0.48 per day, or $6.72 if run continuously for 2 weeks if we get another extreme cold stretch like last year. To me, saving a bird or two would be worth the cost of running the heater.

But I do think it is better not to rely on any heaters, if possible. There is cold, and then there is extreme cold which I believe many people do not understand unless they go through a tough winter with their animals. I just don't know at what low temp a supplemental heat would be best for my chickens. For example, should the chickens be able to survive a stretch of -30F without a heater, or should I add supplemental heat at that point? I don't know as this will be my first winter with laying hens.

 

[aart]

For example, should the chickens be able to survive a stretch of -30F without a heater, or should I add supplemental heat at that point?

Am generally against heating the coop.....but extreme situations call for extreme measures.

 

[Northern Flights]

I use heat solely to keep conditions inside the coop/loafing areas above the frostbite threshold, namely -15°C. Just about everybody round these parts has had lots of frostbite on hens, dogs, cats and just about anything that eats and breathes. Except horses and cattle, but not absolutely. If it's cold enough everything eventually freezes.

There are multiple factors that lead to conditions ripe for frostbite and the easiest way to break the chain is with heat. My setup* is controlled by a thermocouple that trips the heat on @ ~minus 5 and the entire circuit is only closed (manual switch controlled my me) if temps are set to drop below the -15 threshold.

This method keeps the hens from suffering any ill effects from departing the "warmer" coop into colder air outside and should both my backup gensets fail the gradual drop from -15 to absolute zero will be within a very safe margin. The cardboard insulation keeps the cold on a slow train to chickenville.

*My setup is a 6 amp oil filled radiant heater safely secured in the coop, and in the greenhouse/sunroom a double chained 250 watt heat lamp carefully situated away from sources of combustible materials.

Water stations utilize various methods to prevent freezing, such as fish tank heaters and cake tin heaters, as well as a cinder block model that will be tested under duress for the first time this winter. Fingers crossed. Pics of most of these items are in my album, I still can't seem to post any images in here...

But a good rule of thumb is to always listen to whatever aart says, and resist like the clappers disregarding her sage and always helpful advice.

 

[gtaus]

But a good rule of thumb is to always listen to whatever aart says, and resist like the clappers disregarding her sage and always helpful advice.

+1. I have always found @aart advice to be very helpful.

 

[spiritpots]

I just don't know at what low temp a supplemental heat would be best for my chickens. For example, should the chickens be able to survive a stretch of -30F without a heater, or should I add supplemental heat at that point? I don't know as this will be my first winter with laying hens.

Knowing the ideal temperature at which to add supplemental heat has always been my questions, as well. After last year's extremely cold temps I know that they will be ok to about -30F but I'm still debating if I should add extra heat and have it turn on when it drops below maybe -15 or so. I'm reluctant to add heat because of the fire risk and the fact that our electricity goes out often during the winter, which would be very hard for the chickens if they had become accustomed to the extra warmth. However, if our temps got as low as yours did last winter @gtaus I would definitely be adding heat this year to help out during those bitterly cold spells.

 

[Northern Flights]

A small generator is all you need should the power go out. Something that can drive 30 amp's is best, but a 2000 watt will suffice. There are some decent quality units out of China that are every bit as good as a Honda, are direct copies in fact! Just be sure to have 50% more load capacity. If your heater users 10 amp's, use a 20 amp generator.

In my case the total max draw is 9 amps so I have a 3.6 kilowatt diesel standby, plus a small, 2 cycle that pushes ~1000 watts. Enough to heat the coop plus run the shop lights etc through a hillbilly hook up.
View attachment 1907007
View attachment 1907008
Aaaaargh! To see the generators go to my album and scroll back a bit.

However I strongly recommend you use proper methods if you choose to power your house as well. It can be exceedingly dangerous to mess with electricity.

Oh, and the fire risk is minimal to non existant if you use an oil filled or one of those panel types. The heat lamp is indeed a severe fire risk, but again can be used safely with some basic care and a few brain cells.

 

[montanafarmlife]

I live in Kalispell. I do not use straw in the coop. I do use a nice layer of pine shavings with some hay and leaves mixed in.

As for egg laying, many first year pullets will lay through the winter. The winter I had only 12 pullets I got 8 to 10 eggs a day. The second winter they go through molt and normally stop laying for a time. By the end of February mine are usually laying again. As has been said, laying has more to do with hours of daylight than cold.

I have an 8 by 6 foot coop with 10 square feet of vent area that is never closed. There is no heat or insulation in the coop. The chickens must be happy as they keep laying and spend their days out in the run no matter how cold it is. It normally gets down to -22 around this area.

What will be important is for you to figure out a way to keep thawed water out with your chickens. There are several ways that work quite well, and there have been threads recently discussing those methods.

Thank you for this helpful information!!! I live in Bozeman, so very similar climates.

 

[spiritpots]

A small generator is all you need should the power go out. Something that can drive 30 amp's is best, but a 2000 watt will suffice. There are some decent quality units out of China that are every bit as good as a Honda, are direct copies in fact! Just be sure to have 50% more load capacity. If your heater users 10 amp's, use a 20 amp generator.

In my case the total max draw is 9 amps so I have a 3.6 kilowatt diesel standby, plus a small, 2 cycle that pushes ~1000 watts. Enough to heat the coop plus run the shop lights etc through a hillbilly hook up.
View attachment 1907007
View attachment 1907008
Aaaaargh! To see the generators go to my album and scroll back a bit.

However I strongly recommend you use proper methods if you choose to power your house as well. It can be exceedingly dangerous to mess with electricity.

Oh, and the fire risk is minimal to non existant if you use an oil filled or one of those panel types. The heat lamp is indeed a severe fire risk, but again can be used safely with some basic care and a few brain cells.

Thank you, @Northern Flights, this is great info. We have a generator specifically for our house so anything I'd use in the coop would be designated specifically for the heater's needs. I'm glad to hear that oil filled heaters don't post a high risk of fire. I have one of those already any was considering using it or a SweeterHeater type heater.

 

[gtaus]

I'm reluctant to add heat because of the fire risk and the fact that our electricity goes out often during the winter, which would be very hard for the chickens if they had become accustomed to the extra warmth.

The Cozy Coop heaters use some type of radient heat that is an almost fire proof design. If the electricity goes out long enough to bother the chickens, I will be more worried about me and the wife as we cannot survive the cold without electricity for our furnace's electric blower. But good points to consider with any heating options.

 

[Northern Flights]

The sad truth is there are risks simply supplying electricity to the coop. I have encountered at least 3 CSA rated extension cords that have failed catastrophically and in one instance set fire to a garage and contents.

That's why it's always best to use the double the rated draw rule: if your max draw is 10 amps, build for 20 amps. And hard wire as much as possible, avoiding extension cords. Secure all wiring using wiring staples and secure all power bars etc so nothing moves. No kinks or pinching as that causes resistance -- aka heat.

Personally, I fear the wiring more than the appliances and I always over build by 50%