Advice/help requested - 8x8 shed to coop conversion

[blackdog043]

I'd take apart the wall panel on the right and make it smaller, just two cuts....hope you used screws.

I agree with aart. It will be quicker, easier and it won't take much to knock the wall apart and redo it.

 

[CapricornFarm]

I put it together before I had the impact driver - lesson learned!

I love my impact driver too!

 

[aart]

I put it together before I had the impact driver - lesson learned!

Bah. Been driving screws for years without an impact type driver....
....maybe you didn't have any kind of a power driver.

 

[aart]

run the door down a table saw. or get a straight boards or angle iron and use it (with clamps) as a guide for a skill saw. Granted the metal wire does not go to the edge. id rip same off each side or the wall

Might be rough on the blade, and operator, with the nails in there

 

[aart]

Crow bar, big one 2-3'

Was thinking about this....might need a small pry bar too, hammer it between pieces of wood and get them far enough apart to expose the nail heads(might have to hammer wood back down), then use the large crow bar(hook end) to remove nails. Will have to use a block(s) under crowbar hook once nail comes out a ways.

Longer the crowbar easier to do, leverage in length is a girls best friend. I have a couple different lengths of pipe I use over wrench ends to gain the power of leverage, I call it my 'bicep bar'.

 

[ScottandSam]

ya I don't suggest cutting nails on a table saw. Blades get expensive when sparks fly.I was just thinking how I build doors (POCKET HOLES) there be all wood on the outside at least 1/2"
could be taken off.
Another thing about removing stuff. would be use a spare block of wood to beat the hammer on instead of your finished studs. that way your studs and framing is still clean and not all beat up hope that makes sense.
Scott

 

[aart]

Another thing about removing stuff. would be use a spare block of wood to beat the hammer on instead of your finished studs. that way your studs and framing is still clean and not all beat up hope that makes sense.

Yeppers, common sense.....especially if you want it to be 'pretty'.

 

[chickachickayea]

run the door down a table saw. or get a straight boards or angle iron and use it (with clamps) as a guide for a skill saw. Granted the metal wire does not go to the edge. id rip same off each side or the wall,lol

Scott

I would try that IF I had any of those tools, but I don't, so I gotta work with what I got!

I love my impact driver too!

It's a game changer for sure!

Bah. Been driving screws for years without an impact type driver....
....maybe you didn't have any kind of a power driver.

I just don't have the grip or upper body strength for putting screws through heavy studs. :/

Was thinking about this....might need a small pry bar too, hammer it between pieces of wood and get them far enough apart to expose the nail heads(might have to hammer wood back down), then use the large crow bar(hook end) to remove nails. Will have to use a block(s) under crowbar hook once nail comes out a ways.

Longer the crowbar easier to do, leverage in length is a girls best friend. I have a couple different lengths of pipe I use over wrench ends to gain the power of leverage, I call it my 'bicep bar'.

Makes sense!

ya I don't suggest cutting nails on a table saw. Blades get expensive when sparks fly.I was just thinking how I build doors (POCKET HOLES) there be all wood on the outside at least 1/2"
could be taken off.
Another thing about removing stuff. would be use a spare block of wood to beat the hammer on instead of your finished studs. that way your studs and framing is still clean and not all beat up hope that makes sense.
Scott

Thanks everyone for your help and input!

 

[ScottandSam]

I think what aart was referring to was a drill. I use a dewalt drill to drive screws. I have two Makita drivers but I always go to my dewalt. It would be silly to screw by hand.
Scott

Look forward to more pics I love watching things being built.
Scott

 

[aart]

I think what aart was referring to was a drill. I use a dewalt drill to drive screws. I have two Makita drivers but I always go to my dewalt. It would be silly to screw by hand.
Scott

Look forward to more pics I love watching things being built.
Scott

I think most drill motors can drive, most are 2 speed(slow to drive, fast to drill) with variable triggers to control speed engagement, even the old electric ones.
Not sure what the difference is between 'drills' and 'drivers' except for the little wimpy battery ones that are only meant to drive screws for 'around the house' use.