Are Guinea Farm and other hatchery keets different?

How do your hatchery Guinea fowl differ from those from established free ranging flocks?

  • My hatchery birds seem less hardy and more prone to disease

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  • My hatchery birds are more likely to be taken by predators

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • My hatchery birds aren’t as flock-focused but do their own thing

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • My hatchery birds get bullied more by my existing flock

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • My hatchery birds have poorer egg setting/mothering instincts

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1

Mixed flock enthusiast

Crossing the Road
5 Years
May 21, 2018
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Stillwater, OK
I’ve seen that a number of BYCs posters have purchased fancy colored keets from Guinea Farm and other hatcheries over the past few years. I am wondering if you think these GF keets/adults behave differently than your established free range flocks? I am wondering if inbreeding for color, or selection of Guinea fowl that do well in confinement results in hatchery birds that are different from the survival characteristics selected for in free range flocks.
2E7B98D9-695B-468A-8157-1E00BF2A2C35.jpeg
 
My understanding has always been that they should be ready to leave the brooder/hen at 4 weeks. The other day I was told the norm is 6 wks. Either my memory is going or there's 2 standards. My hatchery birds have always stayed in the brooder longer, given extenuating circumstances (coop not finished, Numi). This gf batch went out at 4 1/2 weeks. Last year, the ones I incubated, I took outside at 3 weeks and the males refused to give them back, so they went out at 3 wks.
Numi's will be 4 weeks Saturday, and they are constantly on the move, up on the roost, have escaped w/the papas for all day field excursions, I haven't seen them huddle under an adult or together at all this week. They're in the thick of things, using their wings. I just looked out there and they're on the roost in the window, 70° out. I do shut the fan off at night, probably ought to go shut that light off. 😁 (It was threatening rain & dark in the coop early so I left a solar light on so they could eat.)
Neither Mama's nor Numi's hatches were medicated with anything, no vitamins, just startena. Gf's were tx w/corrid and vt b complex (@diff times),leaving 7/20 over the course of one wk. Hoovers didn't get that far, all deaths were within 48 hrs,leaving 7 out of 44.
I've not seen my hatchery birds be unkind to Numi's keets, at one time I think they wanted to jump in and Nanny, but she wasn't having it, only let the jumbos near. Now her keets are under the feet and eating with the gfs- no fear.
 
My understanding has always been that they should be ready to leave the brooder/hen at 4 weeks.
I take my keets out of the brooder when they are 2 weeks old. They start flying at 2 weeks so I move them to my grow out pen. They still get supplemental at least at night.

Of course this is assuming that I still have any left by the time they are two weeks old. Most are gone to new homes within 2 days of hatching.

I have never ordered live keets. I have bought hatching eggs and my first guineas I got from a feed store.
 
My understanding has always been that they should be ready to leave the brooder/hen at 4 weeks. The other day I was told the norm is 6 wks. Either my memory is going or there's 2 standards. My hatchery birds have always stayed in the brooder longer, given extenuating circumstances (coop not finished, Numi). This gf batch went out at 4 1/2 weeks. Last year, the ones I incubated, I took outside at 3 weeks and the males refused to give them back, so they went out at 3 wks.
Numi's will be 4 weeks Saturday, and they are constantly on the move, up on the roost, have escaped w/the papas for all day field excursions, I haven't seen them huddle under an adult or together at all this week. They're in the thick of things, using their wings. I just looked out there and they're on the roost in the window, 70° out. I do shut the fan off at night, probably ought to go shut that light off. 😁 (It was threatening rain & dark in the coop early so I left a solar light on so they could eat.)
Neither Mama's nor Numi's hatches were medicated with anything, no vitamins, just startena. Gf's were tx w/corrid and vt b complex (@diff times),leaving 7/20 over the course of one wk. Hoovers didn't get that far, all deaths were within 48 hrs,leaving 7 out of 44.
I've not seen my hatchery birds be unkind to Numi's keets, at one time I think they wanted to jump in and Nanny, but she wasn't having it, only let the jumbos near. Now her keets are under the feet and eating with the gfs- no fear.
Oof, that’s a rough survival rate - 7/20 and 7/44? I don’t worry much about coccidiosis with my own bred/hatched keets as they should have antibodies to our own coccidian strains from the egg. Keets from other farms though may have different species/strains of coccidia so antibodies may be ineffective. Also, I’ve seen pics of Guinea Farms breeding pen where they have them all on elevated wire, so the hens have have little coccidial antibodies generated to pass into their egg.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/scien...9UQne-HmyoJZqYNCcBRNBlHRqhxWpEmG3VNvYxZj8F8ZC
 
I take my keets out of the brooder when they are 2 weeks old. They start flying at 2 weeks so I move them to my grow out pen. They still get supplemental at least at night.

Of course this is assuming that I still have any left by the time they are two weeks old. Most are gone to new homes within 2 days of hatching.

I have never ordered live keets. I have bought hatching eggs and my first guineas I got from a feed store.
So when do you take away the heat? Once they go to the coop, that's it. But in the summer, those coops are quite warm once I close up for the night.
 
Oof, that’s a rough survival rate - 7/20 and 7/44? I don’t worry much about coccidiosis with my own bred/hatched keets as they should have antibodies to our own coccidian strains from the egg. Keets from other farms though may have different species/strains of coccidia so antibodies may be ineffective. Also, I’ve seen pics of Guinea Farms breeding pen where they have them all on elevated wire, so the hens have have little coccidial antibodies generated to pass into their egg.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/scien...9UQne-HmyoJZqYNCcBRNBlHRqhxWpEmG3VNvYxZj8F8ZC
Yep, that 7 out of 44 was when you all inherited me. I had hoped for better outcome this time. @My2butterflies had bad run last year when I was going through the omphalytis hatches, hers arrived on time but over the course of a week she said she was experiencing similar to what mine hatched with; I think she lost 1/2.
I've always jokingly said 7 was my lucky number, but when @R2elk was telling me I needed a larger flock, I was pretty sure I was stuck with 7.
Re wire floors, that's like the gold standard most recommend to avoid it, so add that to my list of might not be the best advice? Sure didn't work for me, I want to be in with my birds,so threw plywood over the wire within a week. Lol oh, the 7 of 20, 7 is when I started the corrid
 
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So when do you take away the heat? Once they go to the coop, that's it. But in the summer, those coops are quite warm once I close up for the night.
I take the heat away once they quit using it. That is when they start spending the nights on their roosts instead of under the heat lamp. Cooler years the heat is on longer than in warmer years but usually by the time they are 4 weeks old.
 
Well, if I thought they'd ship ok I'd take some off your hands,but we see how that's going.
Something I'm curious about is male parenting skills. Ppl seem skeptical in other grps when I mention how great my boys are with keets. I've had to rearrange my thinking on type & lineage- yes, my jumbos are amazing dads/stand ins, but so was Nugget. Nugget & PJ were from the original group from Hoover's, so home grown, but not home hatched.
Mia & Brodie must both be PJs, since they're both Jumbos. Brodie was Mama's and raised by Mama, Mia was Bella's,incubated, and taken over by the boys at 3 wks. None were Nugget's, none are Mia's. You wouldn't think that given the attentiveness and protectiveness they show with the keets. I would say who they belong to doesn't matter, but Mia had nothing to do w/the GF keets. Brodie is still good with them.
Is that the flock dynamic you wonder gets lost,or have you experienced males behaving like this?

Hi @Sydney65 , I’m moving our discussion here so we don’t continue to hijack Cassie_joe’s thread. I started thinking about hatchery differences when I saw a post on a Guinea fowl FB group (can’t find the post now) about how the poster’s subadult/young adult birds from shipped keets acted differently from her previous-existing free range flock. She (OP) stated that the shipped keets didn’t stick with each other or with preexisting flock but wandered about individually when free ranging and so were easy prey without the protection of a flock. The OP postulated that it was because breeders were selected for ability to thrive in confinement rather than live as a functional free range flock that avoids predators. That post got me wondering if other people had experienced this, or maybe other differences like less nesting or parenting instincts.

As for cock behavior - that’s awesome that your boys are so good with keets! I’ve seen a lot of variability in how my cocks respond to keets, with keeticide on one end of the spectrum to being a great teacher/protector on the other, and lots in the middle that weren’t aggressive but weren’t helpful either. My birds originated from a lot of different flocks, with the original groups from free range flocks and the last few from confined flocks bred for color. I am anxious to see what the behavior of the new shipped keets will be like as they mature, and I really hope I can get them successfully integrated!
 

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