B.Y.C. Dorking Club!

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Some color patterns a more or less solid. "Self-colored" birds, i.e. birds of one color, tend to be fairly stable, although the quality of the coloring can vary. Each self-color: white, red, buff, black, blue, etc..., has those particulary glitches that can undermine the individual quality of a specimen: brassiness in white birds or positive black; purple narring in black birds or positive white, washed out or smutty red, etc...

"Parti-colored", or patterned, birds layer a whole other level of complication onto the finished product because of the greatly increased potential for variation from the Standard. Some patterns are easier to perfect than others; some are outstandingly difficult to nail down. Colored Dorkings, especially the females, possess one of these patterns. Unfortunately, the problem is compounded because the level of difficulty and the kind of hatching and culling required for success often put people off, which means that fewer people work with them and breed them in number, leading to stock whose quality is even more compromised.

Personally, if I were to want to delve into Coloreds, I'd make them the center of my breeding program so that I would allot them the kind of space needed when doing my hatching plans. I'd hatch as many as possible, and for a season or two, I'd just what them grow, keeping meticulous notes as to which younger trait led to which adult result. Of course, this goes, with any bird, but I'd be extra diligent with coloreds because of the level of variability. Hopefully after a few seasons of meticulous hatching/study I'd be able to see elements in the younger birds that would foretell their adult outcome, allowing me to hatch heavier and cull earlier.
 
Sometimes, there is another problem with parti-colored birds, especially rare varieties: many judges don't know enough about them to confidently defend themselves if they pick one. So, of course, they pick white rocks and black Cochins, white Leghorns, buff Orps, etc. Which are usually better so it's the "safe" pick. Breeding rare varieties is often a thankless job, especially from a showman's perspective. It's often the same in other species as well. Tunis and Shetland sheep, Dexter and Highland Cattle, whatever. Many of those breeds have gone to holding shows for their breed only. Often the best of those breeds is actually inferior to the more common and popular breeds, but, unfortunately, it takes a very special judge to pick even a rare one that is actually better because of the huge commotion and uproar that would result. Sometimes, what I see at shows now is a judge that will be willing to pick something rare for Reserve of Class, but puts something normal for Best. At least it's a step in the right direction.
 
There was some discussion on sexing chicks by color. Could I get a tutorial from some of you? I have reds, so I don't know if it can be done easily or not. I could post a pic of some of my chicks if that would help. You need head shots?

And another offer: I still have a few Dorking eggs. There are 20 right now, plus whatever is waiting outside. I'm going start collecting again tomorrow and test setting my second male. These are from 2 males that Roger Tice used last year in his breeding pens and four very nice Red hens. I will try to snap some pics later. I'm asking 1$ an egg plus shipping. I have had good fertility from the first roo, and I can't guarantee from the second one, but I think he should be perfectly fine. He worked last year
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PM me if interested. They have been kept in a cooler at 65 degrees and should be just fine. None are more than 8 days old today.

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After candling the previous setting, fertility was less than I expected (about 71%), so I will lower the price to $8/dozen plus shipping ($0.67/egg). They have been with a rooster since Monday and before that were without one for 5 days, which caused the decrease in fertility. If you want to take the risk, let me know.
 
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Well Dorking lovers, I've got a deal for you!

I hatched WAY too many birds cause my OCD kicked in and now I have more than I can handle and more important more than I can afford to feed. So, I would LOVE, LOVE, LOVE to sell these babies. I was asking $5 but I'll happily take $2 each now.

I live in Kansas City area so if you can travel down to where I am, I'd happily sell you all you can take home!!!!

Come and get em.
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Dave
 
Hi Dave! If you don't have any takers, raise them up to 8 weeks old and then cull them by weight to the number you feel comfortable raising. Up not that point, the grain bill will be slight. After that point it starts to rise a bit.

Right now our average is around 2lbs. for cockerels at 8 weeks. If others are keeping track and following the ALBC rhythm, it'd be interesting to know your 8 week weights. Sharing this kind of info can be really helpful. If you're overrun with birds, you can use this age to cull for combs in cockerels as well--sunken leaders in RC's can be a hastle and are visible at this age. Single combs are 6-pointed. Especially for single-combs, I'd only cull for point number if you have a lot of chicks such that your feed bill is overwhelming. If not, you might find that your best cockerel is not 6-pointed, and yet his positive merits outweigh the off-number of points.

J
 
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Wow! Nice

pm'ed you earlier about some of your eggs.

I'm looking forward to hearing from you.

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