Bearded Dragon not acting right.

I am truly sorry that the little one is not doing well. But without really knowing the situation, I fear there is not much I can do to help except recommending some other educational resources

Reptifiles offers a comprehensive care guide that can help you figure out if there is a problem with your setup or routine. There is also a section on common illnesses that may be of use. I hope your little buddy pulls through :hugs

https://reptifiles.com/bearded-dragon-care/
Thank you!

I have another question. Is there a possibility that it's acting this way means it's molting? I've seen what looks like some loose skin flakes.
 
Thank you!

I have another question. Is there a possibility that it's acting this way means it's molting? I've seen what looks like some loose skin flakes.
It depends on how long the beardie has been acting “off.” Shedding can make them grumpy or not hungry but typically only for a few days at most. Plus if it is shedding, it should also be super obvious. Not just a few flakes.

https://reptifiles.com/bearded-dragon-care/bearded-dragon-illnesses-health/shedding/

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It depends on how long the beardie has been acting “off.” Shedding can make them grumpy or not hungry but typically only for a few days at most. Plus if it is shedding, it should also be super obvious. Not just a few flakes.

https://reptifiles.com/bearded-dragon-care/bearded-dragon-illnesses-health/shedding/

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I've noticed that it has a couple of white patches that's a little similar to in that picture... It's been a few days, but today it almost seemed like it got worse. He laid on his rock by his heating pad for around an hour not moving.

I gave him a bath, and he seemed to have lived up a little. He drank some of the water. He tried jumping out a few times, and when I went to dry him off, he tried running away. I put him back in his tank and put some food right in front of him to eat. He hasn't ate anything yet, and he's currently directly under his lights with his tail up. He's moved around some since I've put him back in there.
 
Is this a new pet?

Young bearded dragons who've just moved in can be skittish and it can put them off their food.

My latest by would not hunt when I was around for the longest, so I too to leaving feeders in his tank tho it's not recommended. If you can get ahold of some safer feeders like black soldier fly larvae or mealworms, go for that and leave them out free choice. BSF is also high in calcium, so makes a great staple.

Remember, there should be a heat gradient - basking spot should be 40c and cold end 20c - 12c is the absolute lowest temp adults can handle and babies are more sensitive.

MBD is a big worry too. It's not good enough to know it has UV, but you need to know the percentage and how old the bulb is. Beardies should have 12%++ and the higher the better - UVA and UVB.

T8 bulbs must be replaced every 6 months as they do stop producing UV, even if they still produce light. A T5 bulb can go a little longer - 9-10 months from my experience, but will still need to be replaced too.

In addition to good lighting, beardies also need need calcium supplement - which will be the white powder. Crickets alone don't have enough and it's best with a vitamin d additive, which helps with absorption.

A young beardie should be eating mostly live feeders, with veggies\fruits on the side. Their fat stores are at the base of the tail - a skinny tail means a lean lizard.

Do you use sand in the Viv at all? Typically, this can cause impaction if they're eating it in large volumes with their food

Just like chickens, beardies can have issues with worms and protozoa. - signs can include puffy lips, pale guns and thick saliva.

In cold weather, a beardie may try to brumate - this should be discouraged in beardies less than one year old by extending their UV hours and keeping their Viv hot.


If your beardie is older and a she, it could be egg yolk peridontitis - I've lost one to this that was genetically predisposed to it and it's not pretty. They get very weak and unresponsive while fighting it.

Its best to get them to an exotic vet to find out what's going on.
 
Just had a good look at your pic - how long have you had em? Re: my post about young beardies not wanting to eat when they're settling into a new home.

If it closes it's eyes everytime you get close, that's a fear response - if I can't see you, you don't exist sort of mentality.

- if you've only had em for a week and you know your setup is right, give em time to come around and give him privacy to settle in and feel more confident. Try the free-access feeders as above. It's okay if the feeders are a bit fatty if it gets him eating. Try offering dried mealworms from your hand to see if he'll take them. It's a good way to build trust.
 
My leopard gecko did not eat for 4-5 days after I got her. I did a bit of research and apparently she was adjusting to her new home. After her little fast she ate like there was no tomorrow :lol: It’s been over a year now, and she’s always maintained a good appetite.
 

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